You're problem is your fuel pressure. Fuel pressure in a 2g should be 36.3 psi. Not sure how your BLT effected your fuel pressure. Did you bump something on the regulator? 20 is too low and will give you the symptoms you have.

 

Some is more than none yes, but it means the cars computer thinks X amount of fuel was sprayed into the engine, when in reality since the pressure is substantially lower than it ought to be, much less was actually sprayed into the engine and a extremely lean air to fuel mixture is product, and the problem. Figure out why you have low fuel pressure, correct the problem and pending no other issues you should be good to go.

Check your fuel lines for kinks, check the fuel pump voltage, replace fuel filter if it's scheduled or you only know "it's real old", check the sock (pre-filter) on the fuel pump, verify regulator is working correctly. Do that and you will find the problem.

 

Hey, thanks for the replies

I did remove the adjustment screw of the FPR to add plumbers tap as it was leaking. I had time yesterday to play with it and set the PSI to 43 (I was told 43 is the correct setting) and that solved the idling issue.

However, I still have a boosting problem. The car is not nearly as fast as it used to be and its not producing much boost. Hence the boost leak test I did. I feel like I'm running all motor and no turbo and the acceleration is terrible, I get maybe 5 PSI out of the turbo.

Right now I have an air leak at one of my injectors, I just ordered some seals to correct the leak. Would that be the cause of my poor boost? Its such a small leak source...

Some History
I noticed the boosting issue after I made 2 changes. I touched the adjustment screw off my BOV and I adjusted my MBC. Right now I have my actuator linked to my J Pipe eliminating the MBC, I did this to rule out the MBC and isolate the BOV as the culprit. Right now the BOV (Greddy Type S) is recirculating, it has both springs in it and its set relatively hard. I lost the adjustment screw of the BOV so I have screw and a nut inside the BOV holding the screw. The BOV is not leaking any air, I tested it with a compressor. Does the BOV play a big role in boost performance? I understand the basic purpose of the BOV (at least I think I do) I just find it hard to believe that the BOV can reduce performance so drastically.

 

Hey, so I installed new seals for my injectors and that solved the leak.
I did another BLT and im losing maybe 1 PSI every 1.5-2 seconds which to me is acceptable.

I re-connected my MBC and I went for a run and I still don't have much acceleration. I know my car can accelerate faster than what it is doing now.
For example when I shift to 3rd gear it feels like its not a smooth continuation of power and I'm not in boost.

My BOV is a little messed up as I lost the adjustment screw and I'm using a screw and a nut to hold the screw. As a result, I cannot set the BOV to fully soft as the nut is inside the diaphragm pushing the spring down. Before I go and invest in a new BOV is it possible that my car problem is direct result of the BOV?

 

I HIGHLY doubt it's the culprit, but if I recall correctly the Greddy BOV flange is close enough that a 1G BOV will mount and seal to it.

What's your base ignition timing?
Do you have any way to log whats going on at WOT.