You can be at least partially relieved, because the turbo cars run rich right from the factory. They do that to combat detonation at the expense of wasted fuel and power. There are aftermarket products that allow you to manualy tune the ratio, but they all cost $300 or more. I had my MAS (mass air sensor) modified by Dave at
http://boostedperformance.com/ for $150 and it keeps the ratio perfect and also eliminates the restrictive "honeycombs" and prevents fuelcut to 25psi or so. These modifications supposedly outperform the "al blaha" modified mas.

Anyways, you can also make a certain connection to the o2 sensor an get ohm readings that will tell you the ratio, but i don't know offhand what is involved. I can find out if you like. If you do this you can compare it to other peoples readings to see if you are off more than normal.

[This message has been edited by gsxalex (edited August 29, 2000).]

 

"supposedly outperform Al Blaha"

HAHAHA blaha
dont beleive everything someone tells ya.
this boosted performance guy seems like a bad joke to me. I talked to him before and wont waste my time again. Stick with the proven people in the community. Al has perfected his method for 8+ years and has ran hella fast (10s?) on his, and countless other dsmers have stood by his product, which is 40 bucks cheaper. This Boosted Performance guy put an ad in Turbo and that's about it.

Bring on the flames

------------------
Tony
95 GSX
96 TSI
90 GST


[This message has been edited by 4npower (edited August 30, 2000).]

 

Thanks Bill & everyone else who responded. I'll have to check it out real good when I can get a break. I have to fix a '90 F350 with a $$$$ ZF 5 speed jammed between gears. It's in neutral and the tranny was in reverse. Ahhhhh..... Gotta love those ZF's and Getrags.
Rick

 

I would be concerned that at that level of vacuum that the timing is indeed set correctly:

* Did you ground the diagnostic connector when setting the timing? If you set the base timing using the timing light without grounding the port, this will set the base timing incorrectly. Usually at idle the timing is advanced 4-6 degrees and if the timing is set in the incorrect fashion your actual base timing is almost TDC if not ATDC.

* Are you sure the exhaust cam is not advanced 1 cog in time? Normal vacuum would be anything above (technically below) 15 inHg. Ideally, somewhere in the neighborhood of 18-20 inHg; however, certain mods (e.g. cams) will negatively affect idle vacuum level.

 

Overboosted,
Are you familiar with the actual modifications that mr blaha performs? Please explain them here, and lets do a comparison.

 

dsm4eva> I checked and quadruple checked all of the timing belt marks, and rotated the engine alot of times to get on the right stroke to make sure they were all where they were supposed to be at. I did the ignition timing deal 3 times. Make sure at operating temperature, no lights, electric fans on etc., shut off vehicle, connector grounded, and set to specs. Turn off engine, disconnect ground from connector. Idle was at proper speed to set timing also.
Thanks, Rick

 

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> Have you ensured that there is no intake leaks?
<LI> Replace the intake gasket?
<LI> Ensure there are no vacuum taps open on the plenum?
</UL>

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> Did you replace the upper and lower seals on the injectors?
<LI> Can you locate the source of the raw gas smell? (e.g. engine compartment, coming out of the exhaust, etc.)
</UL>

If it runs good and you get normal mileage, its most likely an air leak in the intake tract. The gas is odd, way odd.

 

mr gsxalex,
I have one and so do 500+ other dsmers and all are satisfied. i dont exactly know everything he does or what boosted does, i just have yet to see or hear anything about his ''shop'' yet. Just alot of suspicious stories from him.
Like i said before, i'd stick with the proven performer, Al Blaha.

------------------
Tony
95 GSX
96 TSI
90 GST


[This message has been edited by 4npower (edited August 30, 2000).]

 

dsm4eva> I have not insured that there are no intake leaks. I did clean all surfaces and installed a new intake gasket, all bolts tight. I put all the vacuum lines back on all the taps. I have not yet done the injector seals, but do have the new ones. They arrived in the box as 1 lower and 4 upper seals after I assembled the engine. They were thrown loose into the box and got lost in shipping. I have since recieved the other lower 3, but have to install all of them. The raw gas smell is coming right out the tailpipe.

Wouldn't an intake/manifold vacuum leak cause a high idle? The idle RPM is stable but with the richness/manual trans.cams ? it sounds like lumpy cams at idle.
Thanks, Rick

 

Idle probs are VERY hard to figure out. But the vac prob is even worse.

A few quick tests

loop out ALL vac lines. 4 on the TB and 2 on the intake just under the wireing for the inj. Run just the one for tgauge and fun it UNDER THE HOOD. Check idle speed (750 +/- 100 ) and vac should read 16-20Hg. if lower #'s are seen then you have a leak. it can be in the TB, Intake manf gasket ( I don't think it is ) or a bad line. if you block off all the lines and it is then at a higher Vac you need to run all the line one at a time to find the prob.

If you loop out the lines and Vac is still low time for a leak down and compression test.

Personally I would not have put in 1 piston and 4 sets of rings for the fact that you might have a block prob leading to low vac form bad ring clearance.


This can get deep and messy but it sound like you know what your doing



------------------
Bill Marino
NYC DSM
Billmarino@turbologic.net

 

I would agree that the intake to head connection is probably not the problem. I would track the TB connections and any vacuum line attached to the intake plenum to ensure they are free of holes or aren't connected (hey I've done it. ). As for the gas smell, the fuel rail connections (inlet and FPR) and injector seals are about all that could be source of your problem.

 

Maybe check the tubing that goes to the charcoal canister under the battery. I suppose if you get them mixed up or forget one, you will get a raw gas smell and bad vacuum.

------------------
Chris Holmes
'91 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo
www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/5051

 

I will assume you have checked all the other sensors that can affect idle. TPS, IPS, ISC etc etc. Whatever you do the vacuum problem needs to be fixed. Is this on a stock gauge or a real pressure gauge?

 

The raw gas smell comes right out of the tailpipe. There is no gas smell in the engine compartment. I didn't check the TPS,IPS, or ISC sensors. I would think if any of them were bad that they would exhibit other problems as well. The car goes like a bat outta hell. It pulls 11 P.S.I. on a VDO Boost gauge. It runs and drives well. The idle RPM is stable and smooth on the tach. I don't feel there is any piston / ring to cylinder problems. If their was a problem there, the thing would be an oil burner/ smoker, and the cylinder pressures would go past the rings and blow oil out of everywhere. Correct me if I'm thinking wrong.
Rick

 

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> Have you pulled the plugs to see if any were getting fuel soaked?
<LI> If you can smell raw fuel, does it backfire regularly?
<LI> Check the injector connectors to make sure they're seated well and clipped in place
</UL>

I'm starting to run out of ideas here.

 

Now that my turbo died, I'll share the low vacuum problem. I got to pinching off vacuum lines with needle nose pliers by the throttlebody. My idle picked up and smoothed out when I pinched off the "P" port. This is the vacuum line to the EGR valve. I guess the EGR valve is stuck partially open. I left it unhooked and plugged the port until I can take the valve off and look at it. My vacuum at idle in park, is now 18". Good old carbon and EGR valves don't mix, and they never stick closed. Open EGR valve = Big vacuum leak. I don't smell the raw gas smell anymore either. Thanks for all the responces.
Rick