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Stupid ticking/knocking after timing belt install!

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8.8K views 27 replies 12 participants last post by  DSM_Zak  
#1 · (Edited)
OK,
So heres the Story.
First off -- My names Zak, own a 94 GSX and Ive been a part of this site but havn't posted much.

Anyway, I let my friend from work borrow my car after he did a tranny swap on his car and the junkyard tranny failed. So while I was at work, and he got off early I let him borrow my car to go tell his girlfriend he was off work and to follow him to drop my car back off (he couldnt call her because her cell phone was broken or lost can't remember) So he gets back and drops my car off and says thanks bro, I'll shoot you some gas money tomarrow and left. No big deal, just helping out a friend. No problem. Well I get my car back and it seems to run with a vibration. Oil pressure was not right, and I was pissed. So I start going in 1st, seems ok. 2nd gear and its got a balance shaft vibration.

So I told him about it, and confronted him, he said "oh well I drove it point A-B. I didnt hit more than 7psi of boost" (as I told him not to rip on it). So after taking the timing cover off, I saw the balancer belt was completly stripped of all teeth it ever had. Well I called him and told him he owed me $25 for a new belt that he had broken as my car was driving perfectly when I got to work that morning. He agreed to pay for it so I went to the stealership and picked one up.

Long story short, I got the belt on, and after having everything timed, I was rotating everything over to double triple and quadruple check it and saw that my timing belt had a cut in it now on the edge of it about a 1/4 of an inch into the belt. So I was pissed and decided to replace it as I was right there anyway. (I bought the car with 120k on it and the Tbelt had been replaced 10k before that at 110k -- currently it has 135k on it, so the belt didnt need replacing) Well I went back to the stealership and bought a new timing belt as well. My water pump had already been done at 125k so it was good to go. After I got the new timing belt and balancer belt on, and everything was all back together, I started the car, and I hear a lound ticking/knocking coming from (it seems) the backside of the block. I checked everything, and couldn't see anything. The rear balance shaft is in time (checked using the screwdriver method) crank is in time, cams are good, now for the hard part. the front balance shaft gear is in time, but can it be 180 degrees out? It's perfectly in time, and since the bad belt threw that off and was giving me a vibration, I knew it was out of whack so I just turned it back to the timing mark when putting the new belt on.

If the sprocket is in time and IS NOT possible to be 180degrees out (I know that the rear one can be) then is has to be something rubbing or hitting behind the timing cover (I'll be taking it all back apart tomarrow anyways)

If the sprocket on the front balance shaft CAN be 180 degrees out, how do you check if it is or not?
I know Vfaq calls it a "silent shaft" sprocket does that mean it cannot be 180 out no matter what way you turn it as long as it is aligned with the timing mark?

I'm stumped to what this damn noise is!
All the belts are snug (not too loose or tight)
nothing SEEMS to be rubbing
It has to be something I just did on that side of the motor as I just replaced the timing components.

I know, I know -- just eliminate the shafts, I just don't have that much time to tackle that big of a project right now.

Thanks in advance for the help everyone!

-Zak

P.S. Motor is a 6 bolt with 155 on all 4 cylinders. It's NOT lifters.:wall:
 
#2 ·
If the gear matches up to the timing marks that can't be it. I would make take the cover off, inspect everything. I know a broken timing cover will make noise. A bad hydraulic tensioner will make a klacking noise as it runs, and even a bad harmonic balancer as well as just about everything else. Unfortunately the only thing to do is to take it apart and observe. I usually will put the pulleys back on and run the car with the timing cover off so i can visually check that everything is working as it should be, then rip the pullies off and put the cover on.

P.S.
NEVER, EVER, EVER LET ANYONE(Not even Jesus) BORROW YOUR DSM!
I've owned my car since october 2001, and the only people who have ever drove it was the guy pulling it in to inspect it with me standing hawk. Never let yours dsm out of site with someone at the wheel!
 
#3 ·
Stephen said:
P.S.
NEVER, EVER, EVER LET ANYONE(Not even Jesus) BORROW YOUR DSM!
I've owned my car since october 2001, and the only people who have ever drove it was the guy pulling it in to inspect it with me standing hawk. Never let yours dsm out of site with someone at the wheel!
Lesson deffinitly learned!:wall:
Just trying to be a good citizen and help out a friend in need and I get f**ked
 
#5 ·
If your balance shaft belt broke It was most likely in need of replacement anyway. I would not point fingers anywhere but at yourself. If I were you I would have replaced ALL of your timing components. Sounds like you need it.
 
#10 ·
taylor hindman said:
the rear ballance shaft spun a bearing because it happend to a freind of mine. is your oil pump good and duse it stop knoking past 2,000 rpm if it duse you are going to have alot of fun.
You are absolutly right my man!
after thinking the front balance shaft was 180 out, I took the balancer belt off and noticed a slight amount of play in the front sprocket for the balance shaft. I have over $100 worth of parts coming to do the eliminator kit. I'm thinking with the car being drivin and the balance shaft out of whack it screwed up the bearing(s).

Second thought just for a piece of mine I pulled the rear plug off of the backside of the block and noticed the plug was too long and the tip had been ground off a little by the balance shaft!:eek: so I made it shorter and put it back in.

I'm hoping that this eliminator kit not just solves my problem but isn't that much of a P.I.T.A. to do. Anyone know how to drop the motor down a bit to have the front balance shaft clear the frame? I know removing the crossmember and disconnecting the driveline and x-fer case may allow a little extra play but whats the easiest way to do it?

Has anyone done the eliminator kit and have any tips or tricks that vfaq may not have touched on that I may need to know? Any help would be awsome!

Thanks guys.
-Zak
 
#11 ·
robcatch said:
If your balance shaft belt broke It was most likely in need of replacement anyway. I would not point fingers anywhere but at yourself. If I were you I would have replaced ALL of your timing components. Sounds like you need it.
I also had the reciepts from when the owner had it and the timing belt was done. Although it may have been done I don't think the idiots replaced the balancer belt, so Now it looks like I'm taking the balancer belt back to Mitsu and just ended up doing a new timing belt and eliminator kit. The next 40K I will be redoing every component on that side of the block including a new upper and lower cover.
 
#12 ·
I'd take both belts off and see if you can turn both balance shafts by hand. Sounds like one might have seized causing the initial break anyways. Good time to remove them :)

Also doesn't sound like it matters that your friend was driving it, as it would've happened regardless when you were driving it.

A tid bit of advice, if you have a sports car, and you let someone drive it, THEY WILL BEAT ON IT. Period. If you can't handle that (or your dsm cant handle that) than don't let someone borrow it. I've let people borrow my dsms, but I just expect they will beat on it, bottom line.
 
#13 ·
so after taking everything apart, the bearing on the front balance shaft was out of its seat and just hanging on the shaft in the middle of nowhere. God I'm lucky. The only thing vfaq didnt touch on was removing the alternator. All I have left to do is pull the shafts out, waiting for parts to get here, should be here wednesday from extremepsi.

overall not that difficult to do.
Eh, atleast now the balance shafts are out. Never have this problem again.

Ronnie Size - You are right they will beat on it, I know that. But when telling someone not to, they have a guilty conscience when they are, and if they break it then they feel liable and like "oh shit hes going to know now" and just fess up. Rather than not saying anything it all, leaving the door open, and they can choose if they want to or not and they don't feel that they are going against the owners will. Hell, I've borrowed peoples cars and I dont beat on it.

Second note, I told him how much the eliminator kit and all the gasket were and hes like, don't worry bro, I'll come give you some cash friday $110. So he knows something happened.

DONT EVER LET PEOPLE BORROW YOUR CAR!
 
#15 · (Edited)
Morals of life.

If you borrow something in acertain condition, it shall be returned in as good if not BETTER condition.

I finally got him to fess. He was racing a 450hp Evo:-/ then he said he grabbed 4th and it was vibrating and making a wierd sound.

if it were to happen or not, he was still driving it when it went. If it was his car, I would pay for it knowing I could have prevented it. "racing" yeah, maybe if he was just DRIVING the car like I told him to then I would tell him not to worry about it. Me and him have a thing of "if you break it, you buy it" because we've drivin eachothers cars before. No biggie. I got my $110 worth of crap today from extremepsi.com very good customer service and shipped as I expected. everything was there well packed. I will take pictures of the bearing and let everyone see what the "noise" was.:cool:
 
#17 ·
Apreciate it bro!
She will be. It's seriously been extremly relaible.

Bought the car with the tranny in it on its last limbs -- put it out of its misery with a nice launch a hour and a half away, not knowing the insane vibration problem I had was the tranny and not the rear end, balance shafts, turbo, carrier bearings, etc.

Shep trans is like butter:)

then this, now shell be back to normal
 
#18 ·
DSM_Zak said:
Second thought just for a piece of mine I pulled the rear plug off of the backside of the block and noticed the plug was too long and the tip had been ground off a little by the balance shaft! so I made it shorter and put it back in.
I've never heard of that happening. Sounds like you got the plug mixed up with another bolt. Hopefully the plug is long enough wherever it ended up on your motor.

I vote this was the knocking you heard.

Josh
 
#19 ·
So the knocking I heard was exactly what I thought.
It was the front balance shafts REAR bearing. It had somehow came out of the journal and fell onto the shaft. The thing is toast. It was so bad the oiling hole in the bearing itself was covered by its own metal from grinding so much and smacking around. Also note in the pictures below, the damn thing was not a comeplete circle anymore, it actually came apart. Look how chewed up this damn thing is!
Image

Image

Image


Here is what a new bearing looks like:
Image


yeah pretty bad.
Well I'll never have to worry about this again.
thank god.

Also - that hole you see on the new bearing was coverd over by metal on the old bearing.
Sorry for the crappy camera phone pics.
 
#20 ·
UPDATE!

Not so good. The shaft was walking and bored out the bearing hole too big. Now the bearing just falls through. The slightly bigger front bearing is snugger but still goes through. Going to try to see if I can get a freeze plug in there tomarrow, if not, then I have no idea what to put up there to plug the oiler hole. I thought about some liquid steel/epoxy/JB weld crap and smear it all over the hole but, I don't like that plan B.

Any suggestions would be awsome!
There are metal shaving in the oil pan, cleaned it all out in the solvent tank, so hopfully the filter picked/s most of it up.

Jeez, from balancer belt to balancer belt + timing belt to - balancer belt and add a eliminator kit to a modified eliminator kit, WTF -- whats next?

Damn DSMs....

you can see where the shaft was walking on the weighted part and got hot and turned blue in a certain spot...not good.
shit.

I'll take pics of the shaft tomarrow.
 
#21 ·
Wow, you are so lucky you found that when you did.

Try measuring the hole with a dial caliper to see how much bigger it is. Take that measurement to an auto parts store(preferably one that has good catalogs) and see if they can help you find an oversized bearing.

Hopefully they can, otherwise you might be in a tough spot.:(

Josh
 
#23 ·
Josh90TSI said:
Wow, you are so lucky you found that when you did.

Try measuring the hole with a dial caliper to see how much bigger it is. Take that measurement to an auto parts store(preferably one that has good catalogs) and see if they can help you find an oversized bearing.

Hopefully they can, otherwise you might be in a tough spot.:(

Josh
Your telling me!
My parents just moved into a new house so the tools are half and half right now and we didn't have the caliper at the old house to measure it. the difference between the smaller and larger oem mitsu bearing is how much bigger we would need to go on the front larger balance shaft bearing, in order to have the rear one oversized. So the rear one is actually bigger in the amount of the difference between the stock bearings.:puke:

My two ideas:
1. Seeing if I cant find a freeze plug to fit that hole in that size

2. Having a machine shop take a piece of aluminum and have it tapered and pound it in until it makes a mark on the aluminum and have them make me a solid piece of aluminum that size and drive it in there.

3. Your Idea -- blindly searching through catalogs for ANYTHING lol.

4. JB weld a nice layer around the whole journal to see if that would seal it. -- not a good idea IMHO, because, JB weld may not stay. There is oil all over the journal making it hard for the weld to stick, and its a bitch to get a hand up there anyway, let alone try to clean in and make a nice layer of JB weld to cover the hole.

5. New block.

6. Kill Myself.:banana: :wall:
 
#24 ·
So here is the end result.
No freeze plug.
Me and pops went to the local autoparts store and were looking around frantically for anything and everything that MAY fit.

so we come to the exhaust section and see a 1 3/4" - 2" exhaust piping.
We bought two pieces at $1.99ea took it home with an idea.

The idea was where the transition was, was to butt it up on one side in the journal and have the piping stick about 1" from the other side and make cuts in the piping to be used to make tabs for the other side.
To get a better snug fit and seal we mixed up some epoxy "liquid steel" and made a nice 1/2" thick coating around the outside of the piece of exhaust pipe.
It worked out perfectly, we drove it in there, let the liquid steel mold and dry for about 15 minutes then bent a couple of tabs back to ensure it to never fall out.

I put everything back together and went to a local DSM meet.
I'm an hour away from home when I notice some liquid on my tires.
I walk over to my car and see its all down the side of my car -- A nice film of oil.

Yep, I peek under the car and I have a massive oil leak at the front case.
1. I don't understand how it could be leaking anywhere.
2. I followed all of Vfaqs instructions including torque specs
3. bought all new brand new mitsu gaskets
4. I even put the oil pan, front case, oil filter bracket all in the solvent tank and cleaned them thoughouly of oil, dirt, and old gasket material.
5. Started the car and let it warm up and revved it a little, checked and rechecked for oil leaks and saw nothing.

I managed to dump in some more oil and limp her home.
Ahhhh -- DAMN DSMs!
Hopfully another update tomarrow.
 
#26 ·
Forgot to repost back sorry --

It was the new mitsu crank seal that I bought. I put them in before I put the front case on, and I think it snagged on the keyway when it was being put on, causing it to tear a piece out of the gasket seal.

So I went to the dealership (after buying the kit from extremepsi.com) and luckly they had one seal on the shelf. Picked it up for $15 bucks roughly and slapped her on. No more oil leak:)