Well I put a 4 layer MLS headgasket but coolant or at least exhaust gasses seem to leak through it after a WOT pull with some heavy load. I didn't use the copper spray and I guess everything had to be perfect. The head was resurfaced, the block was inspected and passed, but I guess it had to be perfect for the MLS headgasket. Long story short, my car gets very hot after a hard pull and this seems to be the cause as nothing else fixed it. I have both fans working (slim-fans), they are both pulling cold air into the engine compartment, new OEM thermostat, new sensors/switches, new OEM radiator, new hoses, no leaks,... beats me.
I have a graphite headgasket which I want to put in instead. If I disconnect the turbo and exhaust manifold and unscrew my ARP headbolts from the block, if I lift up the head only a milimeter, I could slide out the MLS headgasket. The same way I can slide in the new graphite headgasket. This way the timing belt won't be touched and I donn't have to deal with all that crap with timing. I am only talking a milimeter of a lift up, if that much. Then I put in the ARP bolts and tighten the nuts following the right steps and that's it.
Anything wrong with this?? I will definetely check to see if timing has been moved somehow so that's a given. Anything else that would stop me from doing this??
I have a graphite headgasket which I want to put in instead. If I disconnect the turbo and exhaust manifold and unscrew my ARP headbolts from the block, if I lift up the head only a milimeter, I could slide out the MLS headgasket. The same way I can slide in the new graphite headgasket. This way the timing belt won't be touched and I donn't have to deal with all that crap with timing. I am only talking a milimeter of a lift up, if that much. Then I put in the ARP bolts and tighten the nuts following the right steps and that's it.
Anything wrong with this?? I will definetely check to see if timing has been moved somehow so that's a given. Anything else that would stop me from doing this??