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T3/T4 hybrid or 20G???

1.9K views 26 replies 12 participants last post by  talon_boy69  
#1 ·
Which is better??? want it for autocross.... maybe once or twice a month for drag???
 
#3 ·
I second eto’s comment neither are suited to drag racing. My question to you talon_boy69 is why are you running an all out turbo with a sidemount intercooler. Have you ever done an autox before? If you have driven on that setup you should be able to tell us whether or not it is suited to autox. I personally don’t feel any car with a sheetmetal intake manifold is going to be well suited to an autox course where low end power can come into play. Oh and cross drilled rotors suck for any type of racing plain and simple they do dissapate heat but they tend to crack I would recommend ditching them if you are going to be serious about roadracing or wait till the crack and by slotted next time. Do you actually have the parts in your sig on the car or are these future mod plans?
 
#5 ·
no man...my car came with all that is on the sig, I sold the SMIC cause I'm getting a BIG FMIC...My rotors are already cracked...they're a POS!!! I have autocross but the laggy t3/t4 doesn't help me, a friend is trading me a 20g for my T3/T4...I know mine is better and more expensive than a 20g but I don't care...would a 20g spool up faster than mine??? at how many rpm's you got fuul boost from a 20g???if not...what about a turbonetics t3, please recomend mewhich A/R are the best for our cars and my purpose and which stage...
 
#6 ·
For talon_boy69: I can tell you right now that neither the t3/t4 or the 20g will be well suited to an autox.. Both will have lag into 3500 rpms which is unacceptable for autox. Both turbos will also hit very hard when they do hit which will upset your cars balance exiting a turn. If you trade your buddy for his 20g you will need a different exhaust manifold and wastegate setup. To be honest I think a 16g is approaching too big for an autox course. Big turbo small displacement motors and short courses just don’t mix there is no way around it. I'm not going to say that you can't make a 1g talon autox that would be silly but there are other cars that are much better suited. For all the money that you are going to spend swapping around turbo setups you could buy a crx or a Honda civic hatch and put shocks and springs on it and have a lot more fun. I can't recommend a good turbo garrett setup for you I would call up Forced Performance and see what they have to say if you are dead set on trying to autox your t3/t4
 
#13 ·
I seriously dont see any advancement in this post because you are all set for a T3 or 20G. I am just going to voice my opinion that you will not like what you are going to get for autox.

What Jed said is true, get a 16G w/ 6cm2 housing. That is the only way you can have a resonable spoolup. However, it really defeat the purpose of a bigger turbo.
IMHO, 14B is your only bet. Actually, 13B will do it too. Almost instant spool but no top end :(
 
#14 ·
a 16g/6cm is still better then a 14b....and a 13b....I think you mean 13g? Neways, who cares, this is a kid who wants a 20g with a HUGE front mount for auto X....he already had a good autoX ic and he sold it
 
#17 ·
You wont blow your motor with a front mount autoxing Jed is talking out of his ass. Jed have you ever done any competitive racing? I have been autoxing on 2 occasions and I have also done a HPDE at Summit Point in Va. The average autox run lasts 60 sec or less there is now way you are going to have a problem overheating in that short amount of time. When I did my open track even the temperature outside was 90+ and my sessions were about 25 min at speeds up to 110 I never had any problem with overheating. Jed speak from experience or don’t speak that way you wont give crappy advice and make unfounded claims.
 
#18 ·
I would assume Jed is implying you would overheat autocrossing with a FMIC. That is just not the case. The only time I have ever had temp problems is when outside temps clear 100. And then it is only a problem with the a/c on, and the car not moving.

Autocrossing with a FMIC would not be a problem. Road racing, where you are going full tilt for a long time COULD be, though. Autocrossing rarely lasts more than 2 minutes at a time.
 
#20 ·
JAJA yeah/...that's ASS TALKING!!! he'll blow his engine with his mods if he doesn't add fuel especially with the neon lights in and under the car:p ...ok I have decided to go on a t3...cause I already have the exhaust made with the turbonetics flange, but which A/R would be good??? and what stage??"?
 
#22 ·
To my knowledge the available exhaust housing sizes were .48 .63 and .82 The smallest will be the one that will spool quicker. This should also limit the amount of boost you can run by a few lbs. It depends on where and on what you want to make your power. If you are going high boost with a lot of lag on race gas like c16 you would want the biggest exhaust housing you can get. But if you want quicker spooling and you need to be able to run on pump gas then you would want a smaller exhaust housing. But I am by no means an expert on this I would call someone that actually knows what they are talking about as opposed to someone that is telling you this second hand. Forced Performance can go over every minute spec and will be more than happy to custom build you whatever you want.
 
#23 ·
well... for now I'll run 10 psi...when I get my FMIC i'll set it at 15, then after SAFC and 550's or 660's ill set it at 17 and when grag racing to about 20...sdepending on what my logger says... what do you think of this ratio???the guy said me that it was .63 exhaust and .42 compressor but is true what you say...it should be .48...so what do you think???
 
#24 ·
Have you checked out the HKS 2530 turbo? It spools up really well because its ball bearing and can be used for auto-x. They cost about $1000 though. Nice if you want something with low lag but can still put out a nice amount of air.