I am also having a very similar problem with my 97 Spyder with A/T.

Except I have not had mine stall....yet. Sometimes if I give it too much gas while driving at about say 40 to 50 mph the RPM will go up well over 5K RPM and then it will hesitate for about 2 seconds to shift and shift hard. And then coming to a stop it will sometimes delay in shifting and you will feel it. And then taking off from a stop I cannot start the car in 1st gear. So from an incline I have a real hard time getting enough torque to take off. And also when I am cruising at about say 65 to 70 mph, I am at about 4,000 RPM. My overdrive does not work at all either.

I did pull the ECU code P1750 which is a Solenoid Assembly Malfunction code. And this involves either the torque converter clutch solenoid, shift control solenoid A or B or both, or the pressure control solenoid.

And we know that when these fail in some way then the transmission control module will input these failure signals to the ECU so then you get the P1750 code. Unless the ECU itself has failed, which is not the case here I believe.

Hook up an OBD-II scanner and see if you get that code from your 16-pin data link connector for the ECU. It's right underneath the dash panel cover below the steering wheel on your right hand side next to the console under panels in the corner when you reach under there. But you probably already are familiar with it anyways.

Right now I am at a point where I need to connect a multimeter to the ECU as advised in another post I made and pull the transmission control module/unit codes. And test the solenoid connections for the proper resistance as well.

And also test the wiring harness from the transmission control module/unit to the solenoids. As well as the connectors themselves. I heard this can also be a problem. And it says to test the wiring harness in my service manual as a possible problem as well as the connectors. This may just be the problem you are having and the open circuit and high voltage reading to the transmission control module could be in your wiring harness from the TCM to the solneoids or your connectors gone bad or both.

We know that the proper resistance of the torque converter clutch solenoid coil at 68 degrees farenheit is approx. 13 ohms.

And the resistance of the pressure control solenoid valve coil should be approx. 3 ohms at 68 degrees farenheit.

And the resistance of shift control solenoid valve A and B coils should be approx. 22 ohms at 68 degrees farenheit.

We know that Code No. 41 is output when there is a an open circuit in shift solenoid valve A due to a high resistance reading to the TCM/TCU. And code No. 42 is output when there is a short circuit in shift control solenoid valve A due to a low resistance reading to the TCM/TCU. And if code 41 or 42 is output 4 times in succession then the fail-safe code 83 is output and the vehicle is locked in 3rd gear as a fail-safe measure. And the corresponding trouble codes 41 or 42 will also be output at the same time.

Same goes for code 43 and 44. Code 43 is output when there is an open circuit in shift control solenoid valve B due to a high resistance reading to the TCM/TCU and code 44 is output when there is a short circuit in shift control solenoid valve B due to a low resistance reading to the TCM/TCU. And when code 43 or 44 is output 4 times in succession then the fail-safe code 84 is output and the vehicle is locked in 3rd gear as a fail-safe measure. And the corresponding trouble codes 43 and 44 will also be output at the same time.

Fail-safe codes 81 and 82 have to do with open circuits in pulse generators A and B with related TCM codes 31 and 32 being output 4 times in succession and the transmission is locked in 3rd or 2nd gear as a fail-safe measure. And fail-safe code 84 is due to an open or short circuit in shift control solenoid valve B with related TCM codes 43 and 44 being output 4 times in succession and the transmission is locked in 3rd gear again as a fail-safe measure. Fail-safe code 86 has to do with an incorrect gear ratio and the transmission is locked in either 3rd or 2nd gear and fail-safe code 85 is related to an open or short circuit in the pressure control solenoid valve and again the transmission is locked in either 3rd or 2nd gear.

And in your case code 83 is related to TCM codes 41 and 42. Due to code 41 being output 4 times in succession.

Plus you also have code 43 which is your shift control solenoid valve B having an open circuit and high voltage reading.

The fail-safe mode is cancelled when the ignition switch is turned to OFF. But the trouble codes remain of course.

This we know from the service manual.

So just because the solenoid A and B are testing out okay with the proper resistance value ranges there is an open circuit there and a high resistance value reading to the TCM/TCU.

Which tells us that it could be the shift control solenoid valve A and B but could be either the connectors, the wiring harness between the connectors of the TCM/TCU and the shift control solenoid valve A and B, or the TCM/TCU itself.

When you have the codes 41, 42, 43, 44, 83, 84 the service manual says it's either a malfunction of the shift control solenoid valve A or B or both depending on the codes (41 & 42 for A and 43 & 44 for B), a malfunction of the connector(s), or a malfunction of the TCM/TCU.

According to the service manual here are the diagnosis steps when you have the codes 41, 42, 43, 44, 83, 84:

1) Check the shift control solenoid valve

You already did that and the resistance values checked out okay. So if that was OK then move on to the next step. If they did not test out okay then replace them.

2) Check the connectors

If they are no good then repair them and if they are okay then proceed to the next step.

3) Check the harness wire between the connectors of the TCM/TCU and the shift control solenoid valve(s).

If it is no good then repair them. If they are okay then proceed to the next step.

4) Replace shift control solenoid valve

Check the trouble system.

If there is still a problem then replace the transmission control module/unit.

Also there are checks for the transmission control module terminals as well that are in the service manual instructions.

It mentions how to check the TCM terminals. There are 46 of them and you can test them for 0 V or positive voltage based on certain conditions.

It says for shift control solenoid valve A with conditions: Engine: Idling & Selector lever position: L range - terminal 2 will have a battery positive voltage under normal conditions. With conditions: Engine: Idling & Selector lever position: 2 range then terminal 2 will have a 0 voltage under normal conditions.

For shift control solenoid valve B and transaxle condition: 1st and 2nd gear - terminal 15 will have a battery positive voltage under normal conditions. For transaxle condition: 3rd and 4th gear - terminal 15 will have a 0 voltage under normal conditions.

Those are tests when checking the TCM terminals.

Hope this helps some as I am going through a similar problem with my A/T on my 97 Eclipse Spyder.

I have the F4A23-2-UPQ5 transmission. I have the 4g64 2.4 Liter engine.

And the 2.0 Liter turbo engine has the F4A33-1-UPQ transmission in it which may be the A/T you have but I don't know but the same codes and diagnostic procedures apply for both the 2.4 Liter and 2.0 Liter turbo engine automatic transmissions.

 

Whoa thanks for all the info I have tomorrow off for some random reason so I'll be checking the connectors and TCU for any problems. I also have to take the car in for its 1 week tranny check (for leaks and such) so I will ask them as well.

I am not currently getting any CELs so I don't think I am getting P1750. But something is strange with that too, I SHOULD be getting o2 sensor codes being thrown at me on a daily basis (no cat) but since I had the transmission rebuilt the first time it doesn't come on anymore. So, no idea what's going on there.

I will start looking into things tonight after the wife goes to bed. Anymore input would be appreciated

 

No problem. Hope you get it figured out and if I find out any more info I'll let you know. My Eclipse service manuals have a lot on this, it's just a matter of reading through it all and finding the right info since there is so much info in them and everything is in there.

My guess is that it is either your connectors or the wiring harness from the TCM/TCU to the solenoids. I heard that over time and with heat and debris and such the wiring harness can get damaged or the connectors themselves.

It may very well be one or both of the shift control solenoid valves but could just be the connectors or the wiring harness. It could even be the TCM/TCU itself but most likely not. That would be the last thing to rule out.

It either has to be the solenoids, the connectors, the wiring harness, or the TCM/TCU. One of those 4 things.

My guess is the wiring harness from the TCM to the solenoids.

 

Yeah I hope you are right. Mind if I ask which manuals you have and which has the most information on this? All I have is a Haynes manual and I can't seem to find a whole lot.

 

Well I examined and cleaned the connectors/wires and for now at least the TCU isn't throwing any codes anymore. I haven't driven it hard yet to see if any symptoms still exist...I hate Oregon.

 

Its not bad connectors or wires lol, they dont just go bad or get dirty and not work like that because they have enough amps going through them to keep them clean, your radio or heater or dome lights or wipers etc would have a much better chance of having connector failures and yet how often do you see that happen? sounds more like you are grasping at straws because you are in denial about the fact that you have internal mechanical problems with your transmission, and it's not the solenoids either, 95% of solenoids that are sold for Mitsubishi transmissions are not necessary and are due to misdiagnosis/ease of replacement/finger crossers...they RARELY ever go bad, I have seen them personally on my vehicles go well over 300,000 miles and 17 years or more and still work perfectly, they are not prone to going bad and the resistance can be off 10 ohms or more EASILY and not be a problem, regardless of what any manual says. I've rebuilt enough of these transmissions to know the facts. To the o/p: you really should'nt be running your car wide open on a brand new transmission...ever hear of break in period? good way to glaze your plates and cause poor performance the rest of the units life. There is a good chance that your tcu codes are OLD from when the transmission was installed and or the key was turned on without the connector being plugged in, again bad solenoids dont come and go. The stalling problem has nothing to do with the transmission by the way. The transmission feeling like it does'nt catch when going into passing gear is semi-normal depending on how long it hangs due to the amount of time it takes fluid to get to certain parts of the transmission components, and it can be pronounced when the fluid is cold.

 

Well as far as a break in period goes, I thought the 2300 mile drive across the country might take care of that. They didn't rebuild it this last time...just replaced the failing torque converter.

And yes...I am hoping that the codes were only being thrown because they didn't get cleared properly or something...like you said. I also realize that it probably wasn't the transmission that was causing it to stall, but I know the lock up solenoid could cause a stall...but like you said I've ruled that out. TPS also checks out fine btw

I still have to find out what fluid they put in there this last time. I don't know how a transmission shop typically operates as far as ordering OEM tranny fluid.

Thanks for the response BISH, I welcome any input as well as critizism

 

Most transmission shops will just pour in whatever they have, you have to be diligent there.

 

Good to know, Ill get that taken care of asap.

 

Where can you get OEM tranny fluid these days? Doesn't look like JNZ sells it anymore and my closest dealer is a good 2 hour drive, will they send it to me?

 

I strictly use Mitsubishi Motors Diamond ATF SP III in my transmission. NOTHING ELSE.

As far as the service manuals I use the Mitsubishi Motors service manuals. They come in volumes. Like Vol. 1, Vol. 2, etc. Seperate books for the different volumes. Vol. 1 will usually cover General Info, Engine, Engine Lubrication, Fuel, Engine Cooling, Intake and Exhaust, Engine and Emission Control, Clutch, Manual Transaxle, Automatic Transaxle, Propeller Shaft, Front Axle, Rear Axle, Wheel and Tire, Power Plant Mount, Front Suspension, Rear Suspension, Service Brakes, Parking Brakes, Steering, Body, Exterior, Interior, Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), Heating, Air Conditioning and Ventilation.

And Vol. 2 will be Electrical such as General Info, Component Locations, Configuration Diagrams, Circuit Diagrams, Engine Electrical, and Chassis Electrical.

It's about 3 inches thick of information all about the Eclipse. Every nut, bolt, wire, and torque spec is in there.

For some years they have a Vol. 3 which includes Service, Body Repair, and Technical Information.

I have two types actually. The Mitsubishi Motors service manuals that are gray color on the cover.

And I also have the Mitsubishi Motors shop service manuals that have a white cover.

Both are certified Mitsubishi service manuals that shops would use. They come in very handy since they have everything you would want to know about your particular Eclipse in there. Every nut, bolt, part, and torque spec is in there with diagrams and very detailed information. You could literally rebuild your entire car with them.

The Haynes manuals are okay but the service manuals have everything in there.

I have both the ones with the gray color cover and the white cover ones too. Both are certified Mitsubishi service repair shop manuals though that a Mitsubishi repair shop would use.

Depending on where you buy them and whether they are used or new they would cost anywhere between about $50 to $125 or more. On average most of mine were about $65 used and about $100 new but pre-owned.

 

Yeah I need the full manuals, Haynes is lacking a bit in the specifics

Now to find where to get the tranny fluid without having to drive to the dealer...

 

I believe you can only get the Diamond ATF SP III at a Mitsubishi dealership. I could be wrong through.

It's actually SP II that it calls for on the 2G Eclipse, but SP II was phased out so now it's Diamond ATF SP III that is used.

I have many quarts if you need any. I regularly flush the entire system (not just drain it but flush it) and change out the filter regularly so I have a lot of quarts of the Diamond SP III transmission fluid. I think I have about 28 or 29 quarts left in my garage.

 

The ATF fluid capacity for an automatic transmission for a:

2.0 Liter Engine (non-Turbo) is 9.1 quarts

2.0 Liter Engine (Turbo) is 7.1 quarts

2.4 Liter Engine is 6.4 quarts

Yeah the Haynes manual is okay for every day work on the car and has enough in there to do a lot of jobs.

But if you really want very specific and detailed info about everything you will ever need or want to know about your Eclipse then you need to get the Mitsubishi service manuals.

 

I have heard of people say that Mercon 5 can be used in place of the Diamond ATF SP III or that they use this particular ATF4 transmission fluid or this or that transmission fluid in place of it but personally I just like to use what it calls for and stick strictly to the Mitsubishi Diamond SP III.

Mitsubishi transmissions have very specific materials inside from what I have read and this is whey they require ONLY the Mitsubishi Diamond SP III that has certain ingredients that are specifically designed for the internal components of a Mitsubishi transmission.

Maybe it would be just fine with another transmission fluid but I would rather have the peace of mind and use what it calls for than pay the price later.

Like my friend the other day needed coolant for his Jeep Cherokee. I told him it requires Mopar coolant and he was like oh I just use the regular Prestone and it's the same thing, the guy at the Auto Zone told me it's all the same thing, coolant is coolant. But I am pretty sure they have different boiling capacities and ingredients and so forth, hence why it calls for a specific coolant.

But anyways, yeah I just think it's better to use what Mitsubishi says to use and not try to experiment.

 

Yeah I agree, I've read a lot of threads about people saying they like this fluid or that fluid but then someone else saying that fluid sucks. Like you said I would just prefer the peace of mind of using what it calls for

Just ordered some from the deal...should get here Tuesday...yay

 

The transmission calls for atf+4 and you can use any brand (even the cheap stuff) because with atf+4 in order for a company to be licensed to use the name atf+4 it has to be the exact same formula chemically that the original atf+4 is, just check the back of the bottle to make sure that it IS licensed because some are'nt...you cant go wrong with the genuine Mitusbishi fluid though.

 

Hey BISH (or anyone else knowledgable), I just spoke with the tranny shop and he said they put in ATF 3. Im thinking I should go ahead and put in the Diamond SP III? Yes? Should it matter? Sorry to be newbish yet again.

 

And yes I know ATF 3 and ATF 4 are practically the same when fresh. But I might as well change it out. *nod* Talking to myself.

 

Your ok, the difference between atf+3 and atf+4 is that the atf+4 is synthetic thats all, so you are good to go, when the 1g and 2g came out atf+3 was what was available, the atf+4 is relatively new stuff.

 

Yeah that makes sense.

It's still happening When I go WOT it just feels like it slips into neutral and it revs up a bit then I let it go back down and it catches back. So not cool. I should probably take it back to the shop since it's probably internal? Maybe?

 

It seems like maybe the kick down brake band is out of adjustment or the brake piston is leaking pressure maybe.

 

Lame Im dreading taking it back to them. Again.

 

Taking it back in tomorrow, shoot me in the face.

 

I have been reading that you can adjust the bands externally without pulling the tranny? Is that true with our cars?

Where is the adjuster located? (96 GSX) And what is the torque setting? I can't seem to find that anywhere I have looked Thanks