[batty200]

I believe the SBR 20G is a TD06 Compressor and tdo5 turbine housing.


Also a GVR4 has PLENTY of room for a TD06 Compressor in the engine bay. All you need to do is get a slim fan just like on a 1G dsm.


Later

 

[centxdsm]

As stated above in this thread, the eliminator series of turbos uses the t3 comp housing which is larger than a tdo5 housing yet smaller than a tdo6. Unles you are knowledgeable about the t3 line, which i am not, i wouldn't bash the sbr 2g or the eliminator series of turbos. As for being inefficient i don't think anyone on this board has a advanced enough set up that the few percentage points of difference in efficiency will be a factor. I doubt you will see any differnce in knock at street boost levels with the efficiency of the bigger wheels. It may be more amplified at higher psi, 25+ on race gas, but knock really isn't a concern on c16. Not trying to flame or anything, but we may just be splitting hairs.

 

[DRW]

I agree that's splitting hairs, but one point that needs to be emphasized is properly naming each part of the 20G turbo. Several posts above are using TDO5 and TDO6 incorrectly. It can be a little confusing since TDO5 and TDO6 are the names of both compressor housings and turbine (exhaust) wheels. It goes something like this. 20G is a compressor wheel that fits into the TDO6 compressor housing. The 20G comp wheel can be stuffed into the TDO5 comp housing, but it doesn't work well, and isn't offered by any good turbo shop.

On the exhaust side there are two turbine wheels commonly offered, the TDO5 and TDO6. Both of those wheels can be fitted into the same exhaust housings with good results. The choices in exhaust housings are called 7 cm, 8 cm, or 10 cm.

The SBR 20G is a 20G compressor wheel inside a TDO6 compressor housing and on the exhaust side it has a TDO6 turbine wheel inside a 7 cm housing. It is one of the best 20G's out there. The Buschur Racing 20G differs by using a TDO5 turbine wheel clipped about 20 degrees in a 7 cm housing. It is also an excellent turbo.

As for the original poster's question, the TDO6 20G seems to be the better choice, but that's splitting hairs.

 

[Turbocharged]

The SBR 20G is a 20G compressor wheel inside a TDO6 compressor housing and on the exhaust side it has a TDO6 turbine wheel inside a 7 cm housing. It is one of the best 20G's out there. The Buschur Racing 20G differs by using a TDO5 turbine wheel clipped about 20 degrees in a 7 cm housing. It is also an excellent turbo.

Is it true that the SBR 20G has a TDO6 compressor housing? The SBR website says that the "SBR uses a modified T3 compressor cover, with a welded 90 degree elbow for easy fitment." To me this sounds almost like TC.com's eliminator.

If the SBR 20G is infact a TDO6 housing with a TDO6 turbine wheel, and is a direct bolt on for 2G's, then this sounds like the turbo for me!! But, from what it sounds like, the SBR 20G has a modified T3 compressor housing.

 

[DSM BLUE TURBO]

Is it true that the SBR 20G has a TDO6 compressor housing? The SBR website says that the "SBR uses a modified T3 compressor cover, with a welded 90 degree elbow for easy fitment." To me this sounds almost like TC.com's eliminator.

If the SBR 20G is infact a TDO6 housing with a TDO6 turbine wheel, and is a direct bolt on for 2G's, then this sounds like the turbo for me!! But, from what it sounds like, the SBR 20G has a modified T3 compressor housing.

okay wow.. to clear up confusion...

SBR 20g is a 20g wheel in a tdo6 comp cover, td06 turbine wheel, 7cm housing, they also offer a td05h turbine wheel...

the SBR 2g 20g is a 20g wheel with a modified t3 comp cover, td05h turbine wheel, in a 7 cm exhaust housing. They use the t3 comp cover so that 2g can reuse the stock LICP, there for making it a direct bolt on..

Again, i went with the 2g 20g td05 clipped 15 degrees. Ill let you know how it goes, as it should be arriving shortly.

 

[whitegst97]

Ok the TD06 20G gets full boos at around 4k. I think is a bit too big, damn i just got my 7cm ported housing and i can't get all the power out of the turbo 4k to 7.4k is not enough to get the full potential i think you will have to race from a rolling start til like the end of 4th gear. i need more RPM's but my 3rd gear gets a little to put it at 7k, dsm's

 

[DSM BLUE TURBO]

Ok the TD06 20G gets full boos at around 4k. I think is a bit too big, damn i just got my 7cm ported housing and i can't get all the power out of the turbo 4k to 7.4k is not enough to get the full potential i think you will have to race from a rolling start til like the end of 4th gear. i need more RPM's but my 3rd gear gets a little to put it at 7k, dsm's

? tuning is the key. Everyone I have spoken with that has had a 20g gets full boost by 3700-3800rpms...

On a side note, with the t25... 13 psi perfectly tuned was WAY FASTER than 20 lbs un tuned

 

[whitegst97]

Another thing, i have tuned a bit bu ti can't get more than 17 in timing, and the RPMS 4k to 5.5k the timing is at starting at 8 to liek 13, could that be because thats when the turbo starts to pull? Im running at 17psi with the 20G and stock 4540cc's, they have been leaned out from 4k to 7k to -11,-12,-13's. Could it be that the car is tuned to give max timing, but these injectors dont' allow it to flow enough gas to increase the timing.?? Thanks

 

[DSM BLUE TURBO]

Another thing, i have tuned a bit bu ti can't get more than 17 in timing, and the RPMS 4k to 5.5k the timing is at starting at 8 to liek 13, could that be because thats when the turbo starts to pull? Im running at 17psi with the 20G and stock 4540cc's, they have been leaned out from 4k to 7k to -11,-12,-13's. Could it be that the car is tuned to give max timing, but these injectors dont' allow it to flow enough gas to increase the timing.?? Thanks

20g with stock injectors @ 17 psi?!? AND YOU LEANED IT OUT??

nuff said...

 

[Turbocharged]

whitegst97-

which 20G are you running? Ported? Clipped?

 

[whitegst97]

It's just ported, nothing else, so yeah i dont' understand how in the wolrd i have to lean out the stock 450's it order not to run pig rich

 

[DRW]

I hope that "pig rich" means something greater than 0.98 volts. Some ways that could happen is if you had a boost leak, higher than normal fuel pressure, or a gremlin swapped in bigger injectors while you weren't looking!

 

[centxdsm]

All cars are different, that's for sure. Yet i fail to see how you could lean out the stock 450's, aside from what turbo you have, without hitting fuel cut. The flow capacity is just not there from the 450s to meet with the air supplied from a 20g. What are your injector duty cycles? The pump will be over running the fpr and give you more fuel, but that still wouldn't change the amount of air being drawn in from the mas. Could be a faulty mas, phantom larger injectors or not a 20g. Or maybe your car is running at over 100 V.E.?

 

[whitegst97]

So what do you guys recommend i do, if im overrunning the FPR how can i solve this, the fuel pump isn't even rewired. Im going to get bigger injectors, but what else do you guys have in mind, what should i check, already did a boost leak, no leaks, im starting to think twice about that damn gremlin switching my injectors . I really don' get any fuel cut not even at 21 psi, how the hell, all though i didn't run 21 psi for long it was like a whole 3rd gear pull only. Come on give my some positive input here, im already worried enough that im running rich with a 20g and stock 450's leaned out. Thanks for your help, any comments are greatly appreciate and helpful.

 

[DRW]

If you're overrunning the FPR you'll have to get an upgraded FPR. Call your friend with the logger and do some logging. Check IPW, O2 volts, airflow, and everything else. Something should turn up.
2G's are less likely to hit fuel cut, especially since you have the AFC set in the negative range, but I guess that confirms there isn't a boost leak, since a leak would make it more likely to hit fuel cut.
Maybe your car came from the factory set up very rich.
Or
You have a weird car.

 

[DCJ98GST]

All cars are different, that's for sure. Yet i fail to see how you could lean out the stock 450's, aside from what turbo you have, without hitting fuel cut.

That is why he didn't hit fuel cut because he leaned it out. He has tricked the ecu into thinking that there is less air than what is really there. Thats why you wont hit fuel cut with bigger injectors because the ecu is tricked by lowering the AFC. And -12 is pretty lean for the 450's.

I would:

1. Check for boost leaks after the turbo
2. Check for vacuum leaks before the turbo ( maybe air is getting around the MAS)
3. Check your Fuel pressure. Possible overrun.

Dont go so much on your O2's, they do vary. You are definately pulling a little timing if you are only getting 17 deg. Not a bad tune but sounds weird? Try a little richer.

 

[centxdsm]

MY bad. I understand how this works and all. Thats why peopl cant richen up the stock inj with an afc on the t25 to control knock. Does the afc give you inj. pulse width? I say use a different logger, or better yet, go to the dyno with a wide band o2 sniffer.

 

[whitegst97]

So i shouldn't get injectors in the mean time? I know i must have a vaccum leak because it reads 12 to 14 sometimes at idle, but it's always been like that since i bought it, maybe since it ahs to many miles (126,000) compression is not very well and could be affecting vaccum? What do you guys think. Wil i be albe to find a vaccum leak by performing a boost leak test?? Soryr if is a dumb question

 

[DCJ98GST]

Sounds like classic symtoms of a boost leak, do a pressure test. Its in the VFAQ.

Boost leaks are the most common problem with our cars even stock. Your NOT using the POS 2G stock BOV right!

 

[whitegst97]

Lol, no, i have a Type S, i will do a boost leak, thanks for the recommendation, what should i look for, i mean in the boost gauge, for it to build boost and hold it, or lose it gradually.