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axemurderer

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Well I am about ready to seriously smash this car into a pole. I got a small sputter at 5000 rpm and anything higher than. Its not bad but enough to loose al performance past 5000 and it shakes the needle on my boost gauge. My boost gauge shakes before it starts to sputter (@4500 rpm). I say its small because you can barely hear it and it not like running on 3 cylendars or anything like that.

I get no cel's and nothing I do seems to change anything. I am ready to drive this thing into a tree :mad: . I have done the following to try try to fix it with no avail.

Swapped the following with known working ones...
mas
coilpack
transistor
plug wires
ecu
cas
and I have bought new 6es's gapped to .028
I hooked a fuel pressure gauge up and the base is about 40 at idle w/o vac, 30 with vac and rises with my boost gauge when accelerating so that should be fine.

I have also boost tested with only a small leak at the tb seal but thats been there before this started happening.

I have the timing set to 5* btdc

physical timing and b-shafts checked 4x's

The only thing I can think of is a bad wire somewhere in the engine harness??? What else could it be?

Any other ideas what else it could be???? I gotta fix this so I can bring my new setup to the track. Right now its nothing more than a nice lawn ordament and go to the store car. :wall:
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
It does get worse with the more power I add. But it does sputter or breakup reving it in nuetral but it sputters at 5500 instead which is the same it does when accelerating under vac without boost. I upped the boost to 16 psi to see what would happen and it sputtered before right at full boost (about 4500, 20g).

The boost gauge needle only shakes under boost though.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
yes I have done several boost tests. I boost to 20 psi, it leaks to 15psi in about 10 secs, from 15-10 in 15 secs and 10-0 it takes forever. I do leak at the shaft seal but it did that before this started happening. So since I am only boosting 10psi I couldent see an issue with these results personally.

My vac at idle is a sold 19-20hg at 850 rpm also.

I do have a buddy with a 91 n/t and a broken timing belt that I can use his bolt on's to test if need be but I cant think of anything else I could swap other than what I have swapped :wall: :wall: :wall: :(
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
well it first happened with my stock 450's and a zero'd out safc. I have installed my 680's and rough tuned them but it doesent matter how much fuel i add or remove it still does it.

I am able to take it past 5000 and i did a couple times to tune the injectors but there is defenently no power and i got it tuned right now for 2-3 counts of knock.

680's idc @ 5000rpm 10 psi w/20g is about 55% and at 7300 the idc is 60%.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Well I did the timing belt/b-belt and I installed my turbo setup at the same time. But about 6months prior to doing this tht car was in an accedent then a week after the accedent balance belt shredded its teeth but didn't snap.

I didnt fix the b-belt right away since i needed to get the body fix and I just cut the b-belt off so It wouldent take the t-belt out.

So the car had bad viberations for the whole winter due to lack of a b-belt. I basically fixed it and installed the turbo at the same time only to find this happening. So really it could have been something that happened any time in the last 6 months just masked by a real shaky engine due to only the rear shaft spinning.

This is why I have checked physical timing/b-shafts so many times because I thaught that was the problem, something i did on install but no its all good. My compression is aslo fine so the valves where never affected by any of this.

Unless there is a wire that could be messed up in the back causing a short? I got hit in the rear passenger quarter but there is nothing but tail lights on that side
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I gapped my plugs to .020 and nothing changed :wall: . Anything else I should try?

Is it possible that maybe something happened to maybe a b-shaft bearing inside the block or the b-shaft itself because it had no belt on it for maybe 1000kms of driving? Although I couldent see that causing it to sputter.:confused:

Is there anything way this could be resulting from my turbo install? Except boost leaks ofcourse since i tested for that.

I am just about ready to pull off the turbo and such and put the stock one back on to see if that changes anything.
 
I read through the post briefly...did anyone mention the ignition?

It sounds like your losing spark under heavy load.
I had some similar problems but it was with an MSD Ignition. I sent it back to MSD and they said it was bad and replaced it. Our stock ignitions are strong but they don't last forever...might be worth a replacement.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
It does seem ignition related I know, I agree completly. Ignitor pack eh... I am not sure what that is, I hade no idea there was another piece to the ignition system.

I will search what it is and swap it out with my buddies since his car is in pieces and is my tool for the mean time :D .

Red1991TSI I knew you would come back ;) .
 
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