Dowel pins at 12 o'clock.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

 

when i put them at 12 i cant crank the engine over by hand more then a couple turns before it stops

 

Did you take the spark plugs out yet? That will make it much harder to turn over.

 

Do you still have the plugs in or have it in gear? If you do thats why...

 

Is the engine at TDC? If you removed your balance shaft belt sprocket and plate, you may have put the sprocket plate on backwards. That would throw the timing off, but I don't know if it would be enough to stop the engine from turning over. If you have a long skinny screw driver or socket extension, put it in the #1 spark plug well and find out where TDC is, and see if it lines up with the mark on the balance shaft plate. Hopefully I explained that good enough. Did you do any other work while the timing belt was off? New headgasket? New cylinder head? Anything like that?

 

no ill have to do that but even with the plugs in should it give somewhat as air goes past the rings, it almost felt like the piston and valve were hitting but i know its impossible

 

BS crank sprocket i didnt put back on, my kit came with a spacer to replace it, i did put on a new headgasket and all that, i had the oil pan off and the counter weights of the crank were completly down for #1, if i try to turn the cams with a wrench before i put the belt on i cant turn either all the way around without the valve hitting the piston, but i suppose thats not a situation that would ever occur with the belt on since the 4g63 is non interference.

 

As someone else asked, is the transmission in gear? That's easily overlooked.

 

no ill have to do that but even with the plugs in should it give somewhat as air goes past the rings, it almost felt like the piston and valve were hitting but i know its impossible

If that is what is feels like it probably is happening. Don't use the starter! By the way, the 4G63 engine is an interference engine. Be careful!

 

interference thats what i ment. and no the transmission wasnt on the engine yet. the funny thing is i think this problem happened to me last time and i set the dowels at 6 instead too and it ran great. is that possible

 

i think the question im getting at here is if the spark plugs are in can you turn the engine over by hand at all?

 

i think the question im getting at here is if the spark plugs are in can you turn the engine over by hand at all?

Yes you can. It's a little "harder" than when they are not in there but is should turn.

 

BS crank sprocket i didnt put back on, my kit came with a spacer to replace it, i did put on a new headgasket and all that, i had the oil pan off and the counter weights of the crank were completly down for #1, if i try to turn the cams with a wrench before i put the belt on i cant turn either all the way around without the valve hitting the piston, but i suppose thats not a situation that would ever occur with the belt on since the 4g63 is non interference.

Okay you dont have the BS crank sprocket, but did you put the backing plate back on? It has the notch in it to show where TDC is. Did you get the cylinder head machined flat? I had mine resurfaced and they took off so much material that the valves hit the pistons with the stock head gasket. I had to go with a thicker metal head gasket. The 4G63 IS an interference engine, so you can't spin the cams independent of the crank. If you were spinning the cams around and the crank around without the timing belt on you may have already bent something.

 

can someone explain to me why the specs for my intake came is like 24 BTDC and yet when i set the timing marks the exhaust cam needs to be pulled into a valve opening but the intake has not begun on any of the cylinders to line up the timing mark when it should technicly have to be advanced onto a intake lobe to get the cam timed right to start opening BTDC?

 

Okay you dont have the BS crank sprocket, but did you put the backing plate back on? It has the notch in it to show where TDC is. Did you get the cylinder head machined flat? I had mine resurfaced and they took off so much material that the valves hit the pistons with the stock head gasket. I had to go with a thicker metal head gasket. The 4G63 IS an interference engine, so you can't spin the cams independent of the crank. If you were spinning the cams around and the crank around without the timing belt on you may have already bent something.

The exception would be if no pistons were at TDC, then you could rotate the cams around all you wanted and wouldn't hit anything.

 

The exception would be if no pistons were at TDC, then you could rotate the cams around all you wanted and wouldn't hit anything.

Exactly right, which is why I said "may have".

alexg1323, all I can say is if you put the #1 cylinder at TDC, and put the dowel pins at 12 o'clock on the cams, and put the timing belt on correctly, it should turn over without a large amount of force. If it is that hard to turn over then something isn't right. Do you have the intake cam and exhaust cam switched? Is the car in gear? Has your cylinder head been machined so much that the valves hit the pistons? I don't know how else to help you. Good luck.

 

god damn it thanks guys the only help for me is sitting down and trouble shooting. Ill be back in there tomorrow to get it straightened out. Its not in gear but ill put the BS crank sproket back on to align the mark and go from there. Here ill run though my way of putting on the t belt

Put a pin in the autoensioner and install it. put cyl 1 at TDC

place belt first around the IN cam clip it

pull the EX cam 2 teeth past the mark put the belt on and clip,

take the belt between the pulleys around the oil pump and finally squeeze around the crank pulley.

tighten the tensioner pulley till it feels right and pull the pin and check the rod for clearance.

and try and crank it over with plugs in, works with dowels at 6 but not at 12. if anyone doesnt agree with this method let me know otherwise ill let you know what happens

 

god damn it thanks guys the only help for me is sitting down and trouble shooting. Ill be back in there tomorrow to get it straightened out. Its not in gear but ill put the BS crank sproket back on to align the mark and go from there. Here ill run though my way of putting on the t belt

Put a pin in the autoensioner and install it. put cyl 1 at TDC

place belt first around the IN cam clip it

pull the EX cam 2 teeth past the mark put the belt on and clip,

take the belt between the pulleys around the oil pump and finally squeeze around the crank pulley.

tighten the tensioner pulley till it feels right and pull the pin and check the rod for clearance.

and try and crank it over with plugs in, works with dowels at 6 but not at 12. if anyone doesnt agree with this method let me know otherwise ill let you know what happens

The way I do it...(also dictated by the DSM factory service manual)
Note: All the valves in the head are closed at this point.

First, set piston 1 at TDC by doing the following.

Make sure the oil pump sprocket is in phase the front balance shaft sprocket is aligned to the notch as well as the crank sprocket.

Thread the timing belt over the EX-cam first then, INT-cam, pulley oil pump, crank, pulley. Of course make sure you have tension on the tensioner pulley and the auto tensioner is set to spec. Turn the crank 1/4 turn counterclockwise and then back to TDC. Mmake sure everything is aligned to the respective marks. Then turn crank 6X and let it sit for 15 minutes and check whether the auto-tensioner setting is in spec. If set, this part is done..

I think that's what I can recall doing a few times..

 

tensioner pulley

It sounds like you guys are not using the special tool on the tensioner pulley. So how do you get the tensioner pully to rotate around the off-center bolt and get tension onto the belt and the auto-tensioner shaft at the same time??? I've tried a few things and I cannot do it. I have a hard time getting enough tension to begin with, and then I cannot hold the pulley back from rotating out of tension as the nut is tightened to ~40 ft-lbs. So end result, my auto tensioner protrudes further than spec, but not by much.


HELP, THANKS!

-Todd