I don't know what your port work on your oil filter housing looks like, But depending on the job, you could possibly port it some more.

Do you have oil squirters or did you get rid of them?

What weight oil are you using?

 

Wow. I second the decision on weight, maybe go a bit lower if you can Saab turbos run 0-W20. But if that doesn't do the trick then I wouldn't be worried bout pressure so much as the restriction causing the pressure. A lack of flow will do more damage than high or low pressure.

 

Have oil squirters, Ported what I thought was sufficient, right now it has 30w

 

You wouldn't happen to have any pics of the port work that you did do you?

Without pics I would have to lean towards saying it could probably be ported a little more.

Your oil weight is fine.

Do you trust that your oil pressure gauge is correct? Happen to have another gauge to check it against.

 

I agree with the porting of the relief valve some more too. However I would think a straight 30w oil is too heavy. Any reason why you're not running a multiweight oil?

 

Do you know why or when your oil pressure became high? I would also like to know about the 30w oil. 5w30 works great for me all year round. I'd like to see some pictures also if you don't mind.

 

Oil pessure was high after fresh build, then I ported the relief hole out, it was the size of my pinky now its the size of my thumb. MMM about as round as a 1/4 drive 7/16 socket's outside diameter.

Oil pressure gauge is defi, 30w is tho oil I'm breaking the engine in on, after which I'm going to motul 15w50, I was thinking tonight "could temp effect the pressure?" as I have a 34 row earls oil cooler that holds about 2.5 qrts

 

Oil temp definately can affect pressure. Hotter usually equals thinner. I'd still port the relief valve some more. I've heard of messing with the spring as well but I don't know enough to be able to guide you on it. You may want to search around a bit. I know I've seen some stuff here and I believe over at tooners.

 

Hmmm I was thinking about the spring, I'll do some more searching tomorow

 

I've been dealing with the same issues of high oil pressure. I ported the oil relief and had it drop but its still up there. I'm running 5w30, no balance shafts, 90 oil pump gears. I'm probably 65psi around 3500-4k cruising. I don't know how much more porting I can do with out going into the sealing surface of the relief piston. I've been thinking of trying a 2nd crush washer to lessen the spring tension. I need to get a 2nd gauge to see what pressure I have up at the head.

 

Why isn't the relief valve dropping the pressure, I thought thats what its for.

 

That is what it is for, and it should be doing it's job. The problem is that the valve opens but the stock orifice used to relieve the oil is small enough to cause a restriction during high flow and raise the pressure again. Hence all the porting talk.

 

Just out of curiousity, do you know what the clearances are for the mains and rods? If they are really tight, that may be a reason the pressure is high. Just a thought.

 

QC you are going to have even higher pressures on the 15-50. What I can't understand is why they are so high on 30w.

Those are the same pressures I have seen on 20-50 without any porting of the oil relief. I really only enlarged the hole to .50" but maybe .65" in some areas. It wasn't really round when I was done with it. Because of the way it seals, I opened more where I could, and less where I couldn't. What I did to counter it was taper the hole out. Like this. \_/ I cut the edges back as much as I could to allow it to bleed off pressure once it was past the inherent restrictions in the system.

This knocked my pressures down around 100-110 at WOT. 85-90 cruising, and around 25psi at idle. (Idle was relatively high though, 1050ish)

 

I'm thinking from your explanation of the porting that's done, that you probably could have gone a little more. But as you know you do need to make sure you don't port past the top of the piston.

There's some good pics floating around somewhere of some good port jobs, but i don't remember if they are on here or over on Tuners. I haven't searched, but I will try and hunt them down a little bit for you. I have to step out for a bit.

YOU know what your porting looks like............. compare yours later on if your un-able to find the pics yourself or before I do.

Some people have trimmed the spring, but I have never done it myself, so I can't help you on that.

Unfortunately you need to do something, cause switching over to the 15w50 is probably only gonna result with an even higher oil pressure.

 

EDIT***********

Asmo beat me to it.................... by stating the higher oil pressure with the 15w50.

 

I had very high oil pressure also after my rebuild. I had the bs removed before the rebuild and my pressure still sky rocketed. It pegged my gauge at idle. I suspected that it was from the tight clearences on the mains. Like LD stated tighter main clearences will up your pressure. And most aftermarket bearings such as the acl race bearings that I used there specs were tighter then stock. Id suspect youd have similar bearings on your build.

I ported my oil relif hole, I could have went bigger but I didnt want to go to big incase it would drop my pressure to much. My pressure is the same as what Asmo said. Its still a little high I think but im just going to see if it drops any after its broke in before I decide to port it out a little more. It only takes a few minutes to drain the oil and pull it off.

Im also using 30w oil for my break in.

 

Take a look through this link for a few pics of what others have done.

It seems to be a general consensus that as long as you stay below the top of the piston you can't go "too big".

The porting should look like a stretched letter "D".

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/stroker-tech/224606-porting-oil-relief-hole-no-balance-shafts-2.html

 

I think I'm going to try the nt piston, to see what the results are, I did a lil more porting than mavisky's housing.

 

Sounds like your relief isn't opening at all/ very little and is jamming. You need to be careful not to go to far as to expose the top of the piston. This is almost guaranteed to result in jamming. If you take too much meat away the piston will get very slightly cock eyed and jam. Before I switched to a different oil cooler housing I attempted to port one to just below the top of the piston and it still jammed.
Also make sure you debur the piston bore extremely well/ don't scratch up the bore wall doing it. I've seen that too.
My last 2cents...port as far down as widely as you can. So long as it can still seal. I think most people don't realize how little the piston actually moves up and down.
This managed to curb any oil pressure to 80psi below 7500 RPM(still peaking at around 100) with 15w40, no B/S's, with oil squirters.

 

I've never opened one up that big. (in the pics) Mine ended up not round at all. Not really a D either. Kinda eliptical. And like I said, I cut the edges back. But I didn't have to go even that big on 20-50 to get it to settle down. I think your problem might be that you went big and it's jamming.

The whole 30w for break in can blow me as well. I did that for about 80 miles and dumped that crap the fuck out. I went to a standard dino oil 20-50. And just changed it about 3 more times before I hit 500 miles. At 500 I pulled the pan and shook everything down to look for problems. But by then I wasn't getting any metal in the oil at all. New oil / filter each time.

I'd go with a non-synthetic oil that isn't 30w. I don't think it does anyone any good with these kinds of motors. They are built for watery as piss oil. And with tight clearances your going to create a pressure issue, and on cold start... sometimes a starvation issue.

I'd imagine this probably isn't an average rebuild. So I'll post my #'s from my last engine, and you can compare mine to yours without posting your if you don't want.

ACL bearings don't always end up being tight either, that really depends on your crank. My last engine ended up 1.3 / 1.5 thou mains/rods on a std crank after being polished.

 

I dont totally remember what the clearences were when I put my bearings in, but when the engine was first put together oil pressure was high, than when I put new pistons in I ported the oil housing, I was careful when I ported it, I lost 10 psi while cruising, so the porting helped but its still high. Being that i dont think its stuck.

 

Let us know, how The N/T piston works, it'd be nice to hear something conclusive about it.
BTW, you can tell if the piston jams just by watching the guage. My pressure builds smoothly from 15-20psi warm idle to just over 80psi by something like 3500RPM(don't really remember exact numbers) then just hangs out there untill way up in the revs.

 

An update: ported it more, its now maybe a lil less than an 1/8" from the top of the piston, and its more shaped like a D, also the nt oil piston and spring are only a hair different, so much a hair i find it neglible to note it more tan likely has no effect,

now my oil pressure it right at 30 on idle, when cold it will go to 110 when i rev it, on cruise at 3200 i see 75-80, and it hasnt went past 100 after its warm, also enigine is now on 15w50 motul, also i wouldnt advise anyone to cut more than an 1/8 off the oil spring as it doesnt have much pressure on it, and it would most like result in an open oil piston at all times.

 

I have the same High oil pressure, no one believed me but my oil relief is ported to the max, can't port a nanometer more without it leaking at idle. I have not found an answer for it yet.

 

Try using some 0W-20, and port that relief some more.