With a turbo like a super 28, I'd be afraid of melting tires. Being that you have near instant power, so when your cruising the streets and you gas it a little your going to spin the tires at pretty much any city speed. Now if your not going to drive on the street, well hell then yeah its worth it, provided you have slicks and good suspension. I personally would go with a 20g, that way you don't have to worry about spinning the tires as much while in town, and when your racing you have all the power you need. (You race in the upper RPM anyways) But thats just me, knowing that I drive like a mad man, and with a spool crazy turbo I would be needed tires with every oil change

 

I have been trying to figure out the answer to this question myself. And to top it off what if you want the car to be Smog Legal in Cali. I have been trying to search to see what the largest turbo I can slap into a 2g FWD while still having it on the road as a daily driver, but I fear the dreaded 'Smog Nazis' ...

 

Go for something with lag. FP Green isn't overkill anymore. BR20g is more instant power than FP Green. Roughly same power levels....just br20g would be a little worse for a WWD.

Just as FYI: You won't be getting into the 12's EASILY at all with a FWD. Regardless of mods.

 

From what I have read and from Van (Thanks for your help), that the FP Green seems like overkill on the 2g FWD, since it will never use its full potential. Van recommended getting the FP Big 28, as it will easily help me get into the 12s and it is a true bolt on, and is fairly cheap.

Green is not overkill.. Does Van drive FWD? I think not..
with the big T28 you'll have more traction problem than a green. With a big 20G/Green turbo the lag will help traction and give you better topend. Powerband is different between these two turbos and for a FWD you want to focus on topend.

Sorry Van

 

Tractionless says

Have I been summoned? Did someone say no traction.

A FP Big 28 will kill your tires, a 16g will kill your tires, a BR20g will kill your tires, A Green will kill your tires even at 15psi, on slicks and a quaife. No matter what you get it's going to kill your tires. Get the FP 28 and a FMIC everyone will think you are crazy then you can hustle them and bust a 119mph trap on thier mommas ass and win some dough.

keith
tractionless

 

my choice on my 98 GST is going to be a FP Big 28.. I agree with tractionless.. I think no matter which turbo you get your gonna smoke your tires.. and the ease of install of the 28 and the power that its known to be able to accomplish is what pulled me in..

 

Speaking as someone who has driven a powerful FWD on the street for many years, with a larger variety of turbos than you can think up cute names for, I can vouch for the fact that the bigger units are way easier to control in 1st and 2nd gear. Frankly, the difference can be huge.

It is true, that at full boost and higher RPM, any of these units can kill the tires. However, the key is the RPM and abruptness at which boost onset occurs. I LOVE big turbos on my car, and not just because they enable eleven second timeslips! The ability to jump on the throttle (without constant feathering in lower gears to control wheelspin) makes the car much more enjoyable. And should I be on the roll, I know how to instantly get the car above 3500 RPM to get into the good power: I just use that stick behind the radio!

 

Just as FYI: You won't be getting into the 12's EASILY at all with a FWD. Regardless of mods.

UMM! Sure keep on believing that!

 

UMM! Sure keep on believing that!

As will every other educated DSM owner.

times.dsm.org

FWD - top 44 are in the 12s.

AWD - Top 308 are in the 12s.

 

Just wanna clarify a couple things

Well I think when I mentioned Van saying having an easy time hitting 12s to me, he meant.. granted that I have all the supporting mods, knowing how to drive my car, and that I don't have to tune my car to perfection to squeeze all the power I can get. And Van also quoted the Green as overkill in stating that the 2g FWD will never be able to push the turbo where it really likes to run.

Hehe, just wanted to say that... so Van doesn’t get bashed for something I probably misquoted.

Thanks for all your help everyone and if there still more suggestions or comments keep them coming!

 

As will every other educated DSM owner.

times.dsm.org

FWD - top 44 are in the 12s.

AWD - Top 308 are in the 12s.

Do you honestly believe that every dsm owner posts his/her times on that board.

 

Do you have a 12-sec FWD timeslip? Please post it then.

Now compare how easy it is to get an AWD into the 12's, and now try to put the same FWD (same mods, etc) into the 12's and I bet it won't do it. People with FWD's have dyno'd over 400whp and are still running HIGH 12's with full slicks, welded diffs, etc. The same AWD would be in the high 11's.

 

Do you honestly believe that every dsm owner posts his/her times on that board.

Not at all. I do honestly believe that it is a true sampling of our community as a whole. And while the exact numbers are not correct, the ratio of 12 second AWD's to 12 second FWD's is.

 

Okay you win I lose but I hope we never race at the track! When are we going to learn that dyno numbers don't equate proportionatly to track times.

As for me: what do I have to gain by posting a 12sec timeslip? That is not my goal and my times are continually dropping, so when I hit an 11 maybe then I'll post it. 12's too me isn't fast, so take it for what it is worth.

As for the AWD/FWD factor, "I" don't think that is an issue for et's. I think that only comes into play with 60' times. But I guess once a week track time isn't enough to draw that conclusion.

Remember I am not going off what a board, magazine or what someelse has done but experience. I doubt there are many others on the board that frequent the track more than I. That was a benefit of liveing 15 minutes from a track. Now that I've moved I am like an hour away, but shall still hit it once a week. Unless I break. LOL.

 

Okay you win I lose but I hope we never race at the track!

What difference does it make? There are many, many people with faster cars than mine. That also has nothing to do with the point at hand.

 

Not at all. I do honestly believe that it is a true sampling of our community as a whole. And while the exact numbers are not correct, the ratio of 12 second AWD's to 12 second FWD's is.

But I think this attributes to the fact that people have and still do believe getting an AWD there is easier and cheaper. I just don't think that is so. And have done it so I am not talkin out my keshter.

 

What difference does it make? There are many, many people with faster cars than mine. That also has nothing to do with the point at hand.

But it does because most people that are making these claims are not even in the 12's! And there are many many cars faster than mine. No doubt.

 

But it does because most people that are making these claims are not even in the 12's! And there are many many cars faster than mine. No doubt.

You are more than welcome to your opinion. I personally don't feel something this basic requires experience.

If you were talking brain surgery, then yes, I would want instruction from someone who had done it before. But putting a DSM in the 12s is not brain surgery.

 

Okay I officially quit with this post. How in the hell do you think that experience means nothing? You think that anyone can just go out to the track and turn an fast time in any car without any or minimal experience? Nevermind! You are obviously one of the people I spoke of goes to the track once a year or never and posts questions like, "what kind of times could I run if blah, blah, blah"?

No hard feelings I hope as that was not the intention of my posts!

 

60ft. times.

I don't know where you can say it's just a 60ft time difference between a AWD/FWD. Do you own a FWD?

A decently modified FWD will have traction problems well past the 330 mark. It's much more than just launching...after a certain point it's not just plug and play anymore. To get a FWD out of the 12's require alot of work. You will be running slicks, but you have to try out a few different sets because no FAST FWD's will tell you what size they use. On an AWD car, nearly any tire/wheel combo will do fine...they can run off the street and do 11's and drive back.

 

Having run low 12s with both my FWD and AWD (both on street legal tires), I'm entitled to say: shut the fuck up, both of you.

This is a stupid argument.

---------------------------------------

As for what turbo, I have a 1G and this may not directly apply, but I have a 20G and when it was a street car I enjoyed it much more than the 14B. Obviously the T28 has the advantages of being a drop-in-solution, but the important thing is, you're the one that has to set up your plan. Call the vendor you think would be knowledgable enough to help you plan (as we know there are a bunch of choads out there that sell turbos, only maybe 10% know wtf is going on), tell them. Posting this question here is mostly counter productive.

 

Having run low 12s with both my FWD and AWD (both on street legal tires), I'm entitled to say: shut the fuck up, both of you.

This is a stupid argument.

Don't yell at me I'm sensitive. LOL. yea it is stupid huh? That is what happens when your bored.

 

I don't understand how anyone can say that it is easier to get a FWD in the 12's. No one is saying that it can't be done, because obviously it can. I just think that on average it is easier for most people to get an AWD deep into the 12's. Will anyone dispute this?? Tractionless? Anyone?


Joe

 

12's eh ? I'll give it a whirl soon enough.

Just need that Quaife and some prothane motor mounts.

It's just that AWD people are CHEATERS, that's all. hehehe

 

I dont really want to try to extend this any more, but I dont see where the argument is.

No one was claiming it was cheaper to get awd into the 12's they said it is easier. since traction is going to be a concern when getting into the 12's the awd wins. Getting a fwd into the 12's clearly takes more driver skill, you cant argue that. Awd is easier.