[flsupraguy]

Looks like I need to replace the headgasket on my 6 bolt. What other things should I do while replacing the headgasket?(hks cams, new head studs?, ect). Also, Is there a good guide on the net on replacing the headgasket or should I find a shop to do it? I'm located in central Florida.

Thanks.

 

[Sean485]

Well you are going to have to replace the head bolts to do a head gasket since your headbolts are stretch to yield and ARP studs are about the same price so i'd get a set of those. I would also recomend replacing the timing and balance shaft belts while your in there.

I think anyone is capable of a headgasket change if they can read a manual and have some patience and know someone with small hands

Good luck, Sean

 

[NOMIEZVR4]

just make sure when you replace the gasket...you clean the head and block off of the old gasket...you HAVE to make sure both surfaces are clean in order for the gasket to sit correctly...learned that the hard way

 

[bmwmon]

i would try it out myself man, i just did mine a few months ago at home with little experience i mean very little. now im attemting a clutch swap. and since you have a 6 bolt, you can reuse the bolts but i suggest you get a set of arps. also if you havent changed your timing belt in a while, you prolly want to do that too. the way i did it was without removing the belt, just removing the cams from the sprockets and ziptying the timing belt to the sprockets. made it much easier. pm me if you need some help, im in the orlando area, near lake buena vista.

 

[anconover]

You said 6-bolt right? there for u DONT need to replace the headstuds as they arent torque to yield. But id throw in arp's, i always say its a good idea if u have to change HG. Timing belt and bshaft belts i also agree should be changed, as well as the grenade style auto tensioner. With a manual u can do it urself im sure, its quite ez.

 

[Sean485]

Oh, my bad. I didn't realize you said you had a 6 bolt. I'd still recomend ARP's tho

 

[mikyrc]

2g head bolts?

Sorry for write in your post flsupraguy.
I was reading your posts and i would like to know what happens if reusing 2gen stock head bolts?

I reused them when i rebuild the head three weeks ago. They were far below the specs limit. So i reused them. I guess that if i'm not planning to build insane boost those bolts will be fine.

Did I make a big mistake?

 

[flsupraguy]

Thanks for all the help guys. Looks like I need to get a shop manual, wheres a good place to get one of those? Should I go ahead and get a stock headgasket or get a HKS HG?

 

[KidintheTSi]

Don't pay the insane amount of money that HKS wants for their head gaskets. I'd either go with the mitsu multi-layer metal one, or (what I'm running) a multi-layer metal one from Cometic (I got mine from slowboy). As far as the manual, try to get a real Chilton's manual. If you can't find that go to about any auto parts store and get a Haynes. There is a very good VFAQ (step by step) for the timing belt removal/installation that could help you out a whole lot with that part of it. I, too, would reccommend getting ARP studs. Good luck w/ it

 

[KidintheTSi]

Re: 2g head bolts?

Sorry for write in your post flsupraguy.
I was reading your posts and i would like to know what happens if reusing 2gen stock head bolts?

I reused them when i rebuild the head three weeks ago. They were far below the specs limit. So i reused them. I guess that if i'm not planning to build insane boost those bolts will be fine.

Did I make a big mistake?

The reason you're not supposed to use them is because they stretch out and weaken; possibly causing more head gasket problems prematurely. When you say they were below the spec limit, I'm guessing you measured them for stretching? I suppose if they're still within that you most likely won't have any problems with them. If you do, get some ARP studs next time; hopefully you won't have to.

 

[flsupraguy]

Would this also be a good time to install some cams? Or is installing cams much more in depth past replacing the headgasket?

 

[KidintheTSi]

Replacing the cam's isn't really related to the HG except the fact that you would have the timing belt off, which would make it a lot easier. I suppose it wouldn't be a bad time to put cams on, but I dont think it would be any harder later if you want to save yourself 600 bucks for em. (I'm pretty sure people are replacing cams w/o taking the timing belt off, so that step isn't a MUST I was just saying that you would have it off already; so it might be a little easier.

 

[TheCrush]

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=67513&highlight=cruise+control+removal

There is a good thread to read.


One question for all of you recommending ARP's, is there any points on early 6 bolts? They don't stretch, and I'm not planning and crazy boost or anything, so would there really be any benefit to re-use the stockers? (assuming they're in good shape). I think that $100 would be more beneficial towards something else. Now if it was a 7 bolt or I was doing a full build up, I'd go ARP, but in his case I don't think it is necessary.

 

[91TSIAWD_Mark]

When I did mine, the ARP studs were cheaper than new 6-bolt bolts...

Might as well change the knock sensor while the head is off. Its super easy then. Especially if its the original or you have some knock issues.

 

[Gumpus]

ehhhh they don't stretch all the time! I just put a straightedge along the threads - if any threads don't touch, I toss the bolt.

 

[mikyrc]

It's quite old post, butjust for your information guys i ended blowing the Headgasket after 6 months of the rebuild.
Now i run ARPs and i'm very happy with them.