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0 mile engine failed ..

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#61 ·
MidShipCivic said:
They are STD size. I payed them to check the 192k mile rods for straightness and roundness and install and properly check the pistons and rods. I didn't feel excessive tightness in any piston when I installed them they rotated nicely on the pin, and I've turned the motor over countless times but that one shows that it was really tight.
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OK you wont put in used pistons, but you WILL put in 190,000 mile Fatigued rods with ebay/top line/ w-e pistons on them?
 
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#62 · (Edited)
MidShipCivic said:
I did do it the right way.

I have a torque wrench I followed their procedure.

/end
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No, you did it the "oh well, it's a honda" way.

/thread.

-edit- There's no difference between what you did and torquing your head studs down with an impact gun "set" to a certain torque value. You have no idea what the actual stretch on the bolt is and you have no idea how well/not it is clamping.
 
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Discussion starter · #63 ·
1gawd4g63 said:
Your gonna tell me that they installed arp rod bolts and the didn't cut the cap and resize the rod, you HAVE to do that, the extra clamping force of the fasteners will distort the rods, i seriously can't take you serious if you think this is ok. And you turned it over by hand to check oil clearances, are you saying that you didn't use plastiguage to check for proper oil clearance? By the way, you always use rods that are standard size, undersized bearings are for if you have to cut the crank.
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No it didn't distort the rods because they checked for straightness DUH.

Slow your flipping role don't put words in my place, you don't have to do that maybe you weren't looking at the pictures.

Plastigauge ? I may not use a stretch gauge but I use an inside bore measurement after it's torqued down that is more accurate.

Image

Image
 
#65 ·
MidShipCivic said:
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Whats all that crap!?

I didnt do any of that. I slapped it all together :D

So, Midship, you going to rebuild her bigger and stronger ro?
 
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#68 ·
Why do you continue to argue with fact's, there is no reason, you made a thread, there are many people that build engines on a daily basis that are telling you that you did something incorrect and you are being VERY argumentative. There is a right way to do something, and there is a half ass way of doing things that could get you by, but isn't the correct way. You should get on arp's website and do some reading. And if you are gonna say that a rod doesn't need to be resized after arp installation than you are inexperienced and should really take advise from people who are experienced.
 
#69 ·
MidShipCivic said:
Go make rod bolts and maybe I'll follow your printed out instructions.
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I don't have to, it's included in every aftermarket rod package I've ever seen :p :rolleyes: . They include the manufacturer of the bolt, what the ideal stretch is (or where to find the information) as well as their "factory torque specs using their factory lube"

You'd know this if you researched it.
 
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#70 ·
You and your machinst are both to blame. It is quite obvious. You put ARP rod bolts in but did not re-size the rods. It is not entirely your fault, but research would have helped. Any competant machines shop should know this.

No matter what you conclude or blame wether yourself or parts, the simple fact remains: You need a entire new motor.
 
#71 ·
MidShipCivic said:
Maybe you can't read ''checked for straightness'' . Anyone else for can't read?
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You are the one taking the word of a machine shop that installs arp's and doesn't resize the rod and mains. As i've said, there are correct ways of doing things, and you are arguing with them.
 
#72 ·
It seems as though the ones who use "the less accurate way" of Plastigauge, *dont* follow the "manufacturers" short torque procedures, and don't run ARP mains.....have running motors...


Then again I'd never run ARP main studs let alone run them without guide pins.
 
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Discussion starter · #73 ·
1gawd4g63 said:
Why do you continue to argue with fact's, there is no reason, you made a thread, there are many people that build engines on a daily basis that are telling you that you did something incorrect and you are being VERY argumentative. There is a right way to do something, and there is a half ass way of doing things that could get you by, but isn't the correct way. You should get on arp's website and do some reading. And if you are gonna say that a rod doesn't need to be resized after arp installation than you are inexperienced and should really take advise from people who are experienced.
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It didn't need it because everything was straight after it was torqued down WITH bearing nothing out of round or bent so I don't need to re-size it.

Is this not English?
 
#75 ·
Didn't fail? Am I seeing things when I see a nut in the pan and another one stripped on that cylinder?

Damn they didn't fail!
 
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#77 ·
Well you are the one saying that the piston just pulled apart, there is really not alot of downward pulling force on the piston during the intake stroke because the valves are open, there is VERY little chance that the piston just came apart like that for no reason, and you have repetitively told us that you cheaped out on numerous things, so as a highly experienced engine builder/mechanic, it is VERY hard to take anything that you say seriously, nothing against you personally whatsoever, and i don't have anything against you, but you are only making yourself out to be very inexperienced.
 
#78 ·
Common sense dictates that the only true way to measure clamping force is to know how much a certain alloy stretches at a certain stress level. This eliminates any variables such as what lube you are using. It just make sense to use the bolt stretch method. I didnt even know about until a year ago when asmodeus mentioned it. So I understand if you didnt know about it.
 
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Discussion starter · #79 ·
K_Mans_TSI said:
Didn't fail? Am I seeing things when I see a nut in the pan and another one stripped on that cylinder?

Damn they didn't fail!
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When you start to make sense let me know like the cause wrist pin/ piston. Let me know.
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
1gawd4g63 said:
Well you are the one saying that the piston just pulled apart, there is really not alot of downward pulling force on the piston during the intake stroke because the valves are open, there is VERY little chance that the piston just came apart like that for no reason, and you have repetitively told us that you cheaped out on numerous things, so as a highly experienced engine builder/mechanic, it is VERY hard to take anything that you say seriously, nothing against you personally whatsoever, and i don't have anything against you, but you are only making yourself out to be very inexperienced.
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Looks like a wrist pin with a flared side over heated & a normal shaped doesn't say anything what so ever but wtf do I know.

I sure cheaped out on my stock engine :shrug:
 
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