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0 mile engine failed ..

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#81 ·
I dont understand how you dont understand what he is saying about resizing after arps are installed on the rods. He explained it so clear, they clamp tighter then oem so you will not have proper oiling clearance.
 
Discussion starter · #82 ·
Since it might pop up that I cheaped out on things.

OEM rod's , ACL piston, ARP fasteners head and rod bolt, cast replacement piston from ever green engine parts inc and DSM parts BSE kit.

Mad baller.

Every gasket was from Mitsubishi directly.
 
#83 ·
Looks like the piston seized in the bore, the heat from the friction caused that piston to heat up which also caused the heat marks on the pin. It created enough friction to seize the piston to the cyl wall. the pin bent because the crank was trying to pull the piston down but it was stuck. This in turn ripped the rod cap and pulled the pin out of the bottom of the piston which (being cast) the piston shattered and got knocked around enough in the engine to damage the head/block.

OR

The rod let go at the cap and went through the cyl wall then smashed around enough inside to create the rest of the damage.

My money is on option 1.
 
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#84 ·
MidShipCivic said:
Since it might pop up that I cheaped out on things.

OEM rod's , ACL piston, ARP fasteners head and rod bolt, cast replacement piston from ever green engine parts inc and DSM parts BSE kit.

Mad baller.

Every gasket was from Mitsubishi directly.
Click to expand...
OEM used rods = fatigued
ACL piston? I think you mean bearing - ok
ARP fasteners head and rod - their head studs are junk, you already stated you didn't install the rod bolts properly as well as didn't install the mains with alignment pins OR have the crank journals line bored after installing.
Cast replacements I never heard of - junk
BSE kit - not applicable to the discussion.

Balla? hardly, and the gaskets coming from Mitsu isn't going to make up for the above mistakes...you didn't blow a gasket.
 
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Discussion starter · #85 ·
Dsm Rocket said:
I dont understand how you dont understand what he is saying about resizing after arps are installed on the rods. He explained it so clear, they clamp tighter then oem so you will not have proper oiling clearance.
Click to expand...
You see when you check this here ID and go check the crank OD and do your math for clearance you'll see that you don't have any issue however I didn't have a problem of the such.

Image



So who else is going to say this?
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
K_Mans_TSI said:
OEM used rods = fatigued
ACL piston? I think you mean bearing - ok
ARP fasteners head and rod - their head studs are junk, you already stated you didn't install the rod bolts properly as well as didn't install the mains with alignment pins OR have the crank journals line bored after installing.
Cast replacements I never heard of - junk
BSE kit - not applicable to the discussion.

Balla? hardly, and the gaskets coming from Mitsu isn't going to make up for the above mistakes...you didn't blow a gasket.
Click to expand...

Looks like you don't get sarcasm he said I ''cheaped'' out ITS A FUCKEN STOCK ENGINE, and for the last time when you make rod bolts I'll follow your ''right'' directions.
 
#88 ·
Ok ID on the bearings OD on the crank, Whats your oil clearance? (after crushing them with your new high torque ARP GOD like studs.)

So I'm no professional engine builder can someone please tell me (and the OP) how to measure stretch?
 
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#89 ·
MidShipCivic said:
and for the last time when you make rod bolts I'll follow your ''right'' directions.
Click to expand...
http://www.circletrack.com/tipstricks/4636_crankshaft_rod_bearing_installation_tips/index.html

http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=904

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/t...h/engines_drivetrain/shortblock/49258_rod_bolt_torquing_stretch_info/index.html

http://www.mondello.com/Pages/Articles/1/1.htm

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=407699&postcount=4

Oh and yeah, here's your manufacturers instructions:

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechTorque.html

Oh SHIT! ARP lists rod stretch with estimated TQ values! :rolleyes:

"If you don't" should read "If you're too poor to purchase a gauge and want to risk f'in your motor up...then you can do this."
 
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#90 ·
They are talking about the cheap noname pistons man. If its a stock engine or not they are still cheap NONAME pistons no matter how you look at it. Thats what they are saying by cheap parts. Poorly casted from shitty material noname pistons man.
 
#91 ·
1gawd4g63 said:
Why do you continue to argue with fact's, there is no reason, you made a thread, there are many people that build engines on a daily basis that are telling you that you did something incorrect and you are being VERY argumentative. There is a right way to do something, and there is a half ass way of doing things that could get you by, but isn't the correct way. You should get on arp's website and do some reading. And if you are gonna say that a rod doesn't need to be resized after arp installation than you are inexperienced and should really take advise from people who are experienced.
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+1 Chill out man. Anger management... Either go back on your meds or up the dose... Take the criticism you started the thread. Did you think everybody was going to pat you on the back and say good job? Or dumb ass? You do a good job of making an ass out of yourself.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
PROZIUM451 said:
Ok ID on the bearings OD on the crank, Whats your oil clearance? (after crushing them with your new high torque ARP GOD like studs.)
Click to expand...
I went by ACL's guideline for there bearing, however I didn't have oil clearance problems or binding back on topic.


So I'm no professional engine builder can someone please tell me (and the OP) how to measure stretch?
Click to expand...
No thanks already knew it.


+1 Chill out man. Anger management... Either go back on your meds or up the dose... Take the criticism you started the thread. Did you think everybody was going to pat you on the back and say good job?
Click to expand...

Another subjective one. Who wants good job comment with shattered internals? Get down from that pedestal.

Or dumb ass? You do a good job of making an ass out of yourself.
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Yeah I made an ass of myself for being quite literal about rod specs, directions and measurements that I SHOWN pictured I recorded. :dunno:




Dsm Rocket said:
They are talking about the cheap noname pistons man. If its a stock engine or not they are still cheap NONAME pistons no matter how you look at it. Thats what they are saying by cheap parts. Poorly casted from shitty material noname pistons man.
Click to expand...
For real?
 
#93 ·
I feel bad for you.. I have a set of good 1g pistons on 1g big rods.. They are yours if you need them, just pay me shipping and slap some rings on them and you are good to go.
 
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#94 ·
If you knew how then why didn't you do it?
Regardless of what a manufacturer says you still have to treat an engine like the dynamic machine that it is, just because a piece of paper says that a clearance is ok doesn't mean that is. I'm not saying that a non-oiling or binding issue on the bearings was your problem, but if your not careful enough to measure an inch you won't make it a mile.
 
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Discussion starter · #95 ·
PROZIUM451 said:
If you knew how then why didn't you do it?
Regardless of what a manufacturer says you still have to treat an engine like the dynamic machine that it is, just because a piece of paper says that a clearance is ok doesn't mean that is. I'm not saying that a non-oiling or binding issue on the bearings was your problem, but if your not careful enough to measure an inch you won't make it a mile.
Click to expand...

:confused: Did I not just show you pictures of micrometers and telescoping gauges I use? I don't need to do the stretch measurement I torqued the rods in in a vise with bearings installed and measured them 4 - 5 times to make sure I have consistent measurements then I measure the OD of the crank pin. Subtract and get your clearance.


Comprehend?
 
#96 ·
Tracing the cause ain't gonna freshen up the motor. Just take the lost and run something all DSMer's do. If something doesn't sound right, I'm sure a good quality DSM shop would give you some advice. It's all trial and error for us all. Live and learn theme. So lets not go bashing on who's right or wrong.
 
#97 ·
It's not like that, there are correct ways to do stuff, that is why someone is wrong not because someone thinks they know something. And you CAN have to small of clearance and it will still turn over, but you will have problems down the road, a clearance isn't just so that it will turn over. I have built dozens of these motors and i've never had one of my engines fail, or any motor that i have ever built (i do work on cars and manage a shop for a living).
 
#98 ·
I've found those cheap telescoping gauges to be very inaccurate in my many measuring experiences, being that when you tighten them they move, you need a WAY better set of gauges if you want to be doing something like this. Just the error of that tool could make up for the out of round of the journal. I guess i am done trying to drill something thru your head, you are the type of person that i could tell the grass is green and you'd say that it is red, living in some alternate reality that doesn't actually exist. Why even post something on here if you can't take the heat of people telling you that you fucked up.

By the way, how many motors have you built ?
 
#99 ·
EHHMMMM,

Motors are electric. :p

Engines? :chair:
 
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#100 ·
Whoa, what a crazy thread. I was reading through and why is it that no one caught the fact that this newly rebuilt motor that was installed and cranked over for only 10 seconds, hit 4500 rpms?:eek: :eek:

That seems like a bad idea on internals that are very dry, no oil is circulated yet and brand new bearings. Just my .02.

Sorry to the OP, it's a sad day when we drop in rebuilt motors only to have them fail almost immediately or in your case immediately. Then we have to do it all over again.
 
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