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streaknby's 98 TSi AWD Street Terror 2010/2011

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#42 ·
Looking good!!!
I wanted to do what you are doing with the suspension but I'm going to have to wait till next winter.

For that front rad support, you can buy that whole piece, a couple spot welds hold it on. I bought one off someone on the Link forums for $100USD shipped to my door.
 
Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
Blurred Talon said:
Looking good!!!
I wanted to do what you are doing with the suspension but I'm going to have to wait till next winter.

For that front rad support, you can buy that whole piece, a couple spot welds hold it on. I bought one off someone on the Link forums for $100USD shipped to my door.
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Thanks, it is a lot of work for sure and I am really hoping that it makes a noticeable difference in the cars handling. These big 2G's handle like garbage from the factory so if this stiffens things up, then I will be happy I took the time to do it.

Well if I can just buy a new lower rad support I will probably do that in the near future. I will get the car on the road with this one for now because I want to be driving the car this summer.

Now I see what you mean about the 3g rear suspension parts. That would be really cool to do. It is something to think about in the future but for now I will just use what I have so I can get the car on the road. Plus I have the RM rear swaybar to put in.

I forgot to mention that while I had all the front end stiff dropped I went ahead and threw a new set of OEM tie rods on the car. Since I have the whole front end of the car apart I will need an alignment and I didnt want one of my tie rod ends failing in the near future and having to get another alignment. So why not?
 
#44 ·
Honestly, get the rad support fixed if you can.
If you removed the front cross member/motor mount, you will likely tear it to shit! That's what happened to me and because of that I had the drive side motor mount bolts shear off and take out an axle too, not fun!

You might be able to source an aftermarket one for fairly cheap then it's just a matter of drilling out some spot welds.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
Is that the exact same mani that I have? It looks like you wont need as much spacer as I did. A couple gaskets would probably do it. You could get some from Shane in his fab thread. Or just get a flange if you can find one easily.

So far no luck on finding a lower rad mount anywhere locally. Ill keep looking. Mine is still pretty solid and did not have any issues removing the bolts. I will continue to look for one to replace in the future.

The rear end parts are going to be sandbladted tomorrow morning and I plan on having it all installed by 4pm. Lets see if I can do that.

On a sidenote I bolted the tranny up to the block! :D
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I also bolted up the AC compressor. maybe should have left it but meh, o well. It was easy now. Hopefully it does not affect dropping it all in together. I threw the starter in there too but that should not get in the way at all.
 
#47 ·
Yup same manifold. I got in contact with someone from SLS and they offered to make me a spacer at whatever thickness I want. I told them that I did some researching online and found a few other people with the same issue. . They said I am the first person to report this issue to them.
 
Discussion starter · #49 · (Edited)
blue_gsx said:
Yup same manifold. I got in contact with someone from SLS and they offered to make me a spacer at whatever thickness I want. I told them that I did some researching online and found a few other people with the same issue. . They said I am the first person to report this issue to them.
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Interesting. I think I will contact them too so they can maybe adjust how that runner bends.

motozachl said:
Keeping the a/c? Build looks so clean!
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You bet man, I went without AC on my last build and I was really upset about it. Its my summer car and believe it or not it does get hot up here in Canada. :) I am trying to make it as clean as possible. I got all the rear control arms sandblasted and painted now ready for the bushings still trying to get a rear spindle, and I am waiting to get the subframe sandblasted till I can get both spindles done at the same time. Everything is taking twice as long as I hoped the last few weeks. And I have less time to work on it till school is out. O well, Ill get it done eventually.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Since I am waiting to get my rear spindle was just messing around doing some little things. I went through the rear bushing kit to figure out which ones go where. It is time consuming to do that because they use very general terms in the instructions. After around half an hour trying to figure it out I could see that the bushings that they supply for the rear lower outer control arm, which actually go into the spindle, is actually not right. The bushings have the right part number stamped into them but the shoulder on the bushing is too thick so the two halfs will not touch when they are fully pressed into the "loop", therefore making the whole unit too thich for the control arm to slip over. Pictures speak a thousand words so have a look:
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To solve this problem I rigged up a setup to be able to clamp it into the lathe so I could turn the sholders down to the right width so the bushing halves can touch on the inside and the sholder will fit in. I thought about just using a belt sander and taking the shoulders down on the outside. That would make it so the control arm would fit over but the halves would still not be touching on the inside. Not that it would make a noticeable difference but if I am gonna go to all the work of doing this job, I might as well do it right. It would probably bug me later on down the road too because I am OCD like that... :D

Before:
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After:
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Side by side:
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Discussion starter · #52 ·
This is the Prothane bushing kit. The energy suspension kit is different, the bushings are press in as opposed to the prothane kit where the bushings are two different halfs with a brass center shaft. The prothane kit is more expensive, stiffer and easier to install, so I went with that.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
The outside diameter of the part of the bushing that goes in the loop is exactly the same as the inside diameter of the loop in the spindle. So the bushing still fits in tight and solid. The problem is that the bushing they give, or at least gave me, would not touch on the inside of the loop in the spindle there for making the overall length of the bushing too long to slip in the inside of the control arm. But if I were to take the bushing and put it together just loose, not in the spindle, it was exactly the right size to slip inside the loop in the spindle. So in order to make the bushing fit tight in the middle of the loop in the spindle and so the control arm can slip over it I had to take 1/16 of an inch off the inside of the shoulder of each half of the bushing. I will try to take some pictures that explain this a bit better tonight when I get home.
 
#55 ·
streaknby said:
making the overall length of the bushing too long to slip in the inside of the control arm.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I wanted to say. Glad to ear that everything will work ! :)

I tought you would have a play since you removed 1/8" from the total lenght ... It's not because they where not toutching themself in the middle of the loop that they where too long. Sorry it was kind of hard to explain ... :eek:
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Haha glad I could make that clear. I am not very good with words and I also know that English is not your first language, and believe me you would not have wanted me to try to explain that in French! :p
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
I went to grab those pictures anyway.

Here is a picture of the bushing with in the spindle before I machined it so the control arm would not fit over:
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Here is the machined bushing that allows the control arm to fit:
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#58 ·
Prolly because the thick one goes on the bottom and the thin one goes on to.
 
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Discussion starter · #60 ·
Well photobucket finally decided to start working again! So with school wrapping up things have been so busy so I have hardly touched the car. But over the last couple weeks I have done a few more small things. Got the subframe sandblasted and painted and the rear drivers spindle as well. I should be picking up the replacement passengers side sunday so I will get that sandblasted and painted this weekend I hope. I also cleaned up and painted the rear diff too. Here are some pictures!

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