Who is running a big FMIC, atermarket turbo and A/C?

dsmusmc · Jun 23, 2011

19GSX97 said:
Yeah but I daily drive my car Doug. The mishimoto fans do blow balls though. I have two fans the stock one and the slim fan on the condenser side. I just used that fan mounting kit that autozone sells. Its like $5 its four big zip tie looking things. Also you don't need to remove the radiator to put it on. I just undid the top mounts and slid it up a little to get the fan back there. I would use the stock fan if you can though. Mine fits fine and I have a 50 trim with a fp pipe.

You still could dd with thoughs Jon. Or spend around $60 each for a 2000cfm 12" fan by Skipwhite or Zirgo.

GTAhot92 · Jun 23, 2011

Simple Jake said:
Missed the edit period.

And would it be possible to just buy the Taurus fan motor and hook it up to our stock fans?

THe catch 22 is you must use the fan blade, motor and shroud. The trick is the 9 blade fan in the slim style fan creates that CFM. The factory fans I bet are no where near these. The leading AM fan available on summit is around 3800 CFM @ 12v. This dual speed fan is perfect for daily driving as a standard radiator fan for proper cooling as well as the high speed for A/C or even staging at the drag strip. Don't waste your money on a slim fan when these can be picked up at local You Pull's for a few bucks! Be green and recycle what we already have. Google is well aware of "Taurus 2 speed fan" and you'll be amazed how people use them! Anyone running a FM knows you cannot have 2 fans wit the short route. This puts one medium sized fan in a central location that doubles as both!

Slimfan 2000-2500 CFM's = $60-75 ea X2

Taurus recycled fan 4500+ CFM = $20 ea X1

Saving a fan assembly from polluting our enviroment

PRICELESS

dsmusmc · Jun 23, 2011

GTAhot92- have any measurements on that?

CrackedDSM · Jun 23, 2011

You've about got me convinced GTA, one thing more though, how would you wire it in to control the 2-speeds?

gostlrs · Jun 23, 2011

Here in Phoenix it gets super hot as you know. I will normally add the 3rd fan in the front as a pusher. It helps a lot here. I also like to use it to cool the engine off after some runs at the track. I had it set up on a switch that I would use to control it when i wanted. I would only need to use it on daily use when at idle & ac on for extended periods. I had the CX Racing set up with the shroud.

Blurred Talon · Jun 23, 2011

Proper air flow is key too guys.
Air takes the path of least resistance, block all those gaps and have ducting in place to force air through your FMIC, condenser and the Rad.

GTAhot92 · Jun 23, 2011

CrackedDSM said:
You've about got me convinced GTA, one thing more though, how would you wire it in to control the 2-speeds?

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2360489#post2360489

dsmusmc said:
GTAhot92- have any measurements on that?

Bradikus7 · Jun 23, 2011

gostlrs said:
Here in Phoenix it gets super hot as you know. I will normally add the 3rd fan in the front as a pusher. It helps a lot here. I also like to use it to cool the engine off after some runs at the track. I had it set up on a switch that I would use to control it when i wanted. I would only need to use it on daily use when at idle & ac on for extended periods. I had the CX Racing set up with the shroud.

Wow you nailed it. This is the exact setup I have been thinking about running. The third fan on the backside with a switch I can toggle when necessary.

Also heads up guys, after much speculation and research. It is widely believed that the radiator cores for Punishment-Racing, CXRacing, and Mishimoto are all from the exact same supplier. They just brand for each company. If you look at them side by side and compare specs, they literally are the same. I couldn't get a straight answer out of any of the companies lol. One of them beat around the bush and would say only "they have the same specs" and "the setups are identical".

I'll be ordering the PR kit tonight as it is pretty much the best deal and the customer service is amazing. We can keep this thread going though, I wanna know what different people have going on.

How about ideas as to protect the fan wires from heat under the hood? Like fabbed shields or heat deterring tape? Also anyone who made custom shrouds between the intercooler and condenser. Show us your secrets please!!!

lost spyder · Jun 24, 2011

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/braidedsleeving/saturated-fiberglass-sleeving.htm

You're welcome

it's all we ever use underneath the hood. And you can't really beat the price. But if you're in a crunch dei has some wire wrap at the local advance. For like $30 for 3 feet eeek.

GTAhot92 · Jun 24, 2011

Blurred Talon said:
Proper air flow is key too guys.
Air takes the path of least resistance, block all those gaps and have ducting in place to force air through your FMIC, condenser and the Rad.

This is my issue I strongly believe. I took that long afternoon drive again and yup started creeping up in temp like before hand. I think whats happenening is the wind is hitting the FM and blowing around it since I have no other baffling or fillers in the bumper. So the least resistance is around into the liner area and wheels. The fan pulls air in however it seems as if the moving airs velocity is too strong for the factory fan.

CrackedDSM · Jun 24, 2011

To all you guys that keep saying the needle goes past the middle mark at all, please..PLEASE buy a water temp gauge. The stock dummy gauge I have logged 240* temps before it even goes dead center. It CAN be accurate, but it is extremely slow. By the time it gets significantly past the middle, it is already too late unless you get EXTREMELY lucky. Get yourself an aftermarket water temp gauge, and thank me later when you notice 230*+ temps and the stock gauge still reads normal.

Bradikus7 · Jun 28, 2011

CrackedDSM said:
To all you guys that keep saying the needle goes past the middle mark at all, please..PLEASE buy a water temp gauge. The stock dummy gauge I have logged 240* temps before it even goes dead center. It CAN be accurate, but it is extremely slow. By the time it gets significantly past the middle, it is already too late unless you get EXTREMELY lucky. Get yourself an aftermarket water temp gauge, and thank me later when you notice 230*+ temps and the stock gauge still reads normal.

I monitor mine with ECMlink. I have it set for the check engine light to come on at 210 degrees and I hear the fan kick on which brings it down quickly. It's just right now I have no condenser. I will be adding it back and I want to keep the same low temps.

streaknby · Jun 29, 2011

I am about to test exactly what you initially asked. I have a FMIC, HX40 and am keeping the AC. I have two 12" pusher fans mounted on the AC condensor and am really hoping that that will cut it for cooling. I am going to wire them to be ECU controlled and for both to come on at the same time. Here is a couple pictures of my setup:

GTAhot92 · Jun 29, 2011

Let us know how it turns out. I noticed even last night my gauge creeped up a bit while on the highway longer than 20 minutes. It's like someone said where at the high speeds the FMIC is as aero dynamic as a toaster in a wind tunnel. The wind hits it and goes around instead of through it. Then fans struggle for air and cause the temps to slowly increase. I am still playing with the idea of a air deflector but won't have a chance to run to the salvage yard untill next weekend after the 4th.

Who is running a big FMIC, atermarket turbo and A/C?

dsmusmc

GTAhot92

dsmusmc

CrackedDSM

gostlrs

Blurred Talon

GTAhot92

Bradikus7

lost spyder

GTAhot92

CrackedDSM

Bradikus7

streaknby

GTAhot92

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