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Well took my car to the track for the first time.....

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Bradikus7

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I took my car to the track last night for the first time. I honestly didn't know what to expect. My clutch has been getting weaker for a while now and I think that played a part in my times. I'll post up a mod list and the timeslips. Just wanting to see what you guys think? I'm definitely a new guy and the times are by all means un impressive but am I where you think I should be?

Mods list:
Fuel Lab AFPR
Walbro 255lph
3" TBE
Ecmlink (only use for logging because I don't know how to use it lol)
Stock T25
FMIC
AEM Truboost (said max was 15.5 PSI)
Injen intake
Greddy Type-S
Illuminas with sport kit

1st run:
Image

2nd run:
Image

3rd run:
Image


This is a full weight street car plus I'm a pretty big guy. Had about 1/2 tank of 93 OCT (too much by mistake). Only thing missing is A/C condensor and cruise control. Well let me know what you think.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
lazylaser said:
1.9 60' to me dosen't seem like the clutch is slipping, those times seem fine for a t-25 and no tuning. A tune, or some more track time will help your numbers. Congrats for making a trip to the drag strip.
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Cool, thanks for the input. I looked over my logs on Ecmlink and I had 2 degrees of knock. I'm pretty new to this tuning stuff. According to my log, looks like the first one was 6117RPM, 36MPH, timing 20.8 degrees, INJduty 68%. Doesn't that mean that I go into ECUconfig and add fuel at a specific rpm range?

Also I forgot to note I was launching at 5000rpm using launch control.
 
#4 ·
Those are nice times considering your mods. Post some datalogs and we can help get into tuning the car correctly. I'm sure you can shed an easy few tenths off with a bit better driving and a good tune.
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
That sounds awesome. I would love to just break 13's before I tear her down for the Hx35 setup. I attached two logs. I ran the car 3 times that night but forgot to log the first one lol. I was pretty nervous.

Let me know what you think.
 

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#7 · (Edited)
Im at work and the pics of your times are not showing, but from what I can read. It sounds like your doing fine for a stock clutch, stock T-25 and no tuning.

My suggestion since you said the "Only thing missing is A/C condensor and cruise control." is either install those and get them working, or get rid of the rest of the A/C for instance as it's just dead weight up front (and our cars are already front heavy). If you want the A/C back and live in a hot area I would considering sticking with a SMIC. You can still get decent MKIV Supra side mount intercoolers cheap, they cool and flow much better than the stock unit. That will help you a little but that little T-25 is your biggest bottle neck at this point. I'd look into something that doesn't die off so soon and a larger set of injectors. You already have DSMLink which is great, just watch some of the demo videos on the ECMLink site and read up on it. Im sure you will catch on pretty quick, it's a fairly user friendly piece of software.

BTW, how do you like that fuel lab regulator? I got a aeromotive compact unit im thinking about replacing.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
motozachl said:
Pretty good for the ol t25! I can't open your log, some reason its a zip not elg
Click to expand...
Yeah, I think its not too shabby myself. I'd like to add more fuel and turn up the boost. Oh and yeah this site doesn't allow that format of attachment so I had to make a zip file. Just download and unzip and there are 2 logs in there.
Ripper_XX said:
Im at work and the pics of your times are not showing, but from what I can read. It sounds like your doing fine for a stock clutch, stock T-25 and no tuning.
Thank you. I feel like the clutch is getting kinda weak but others seem to think with my 60ft that it is still good? Maybe I should look into slave/master.

My suggestion since you said the "Only thing missing is A/C condensor and cruise control." is either install those and get them working, or get rid of the rest of the A/C for instance as it's just dead weight up front (and our cars are already front heavy). If you want the A/C back and live in a hot area I would considering sticking with a SMIC. You can still get decent MKIV Supra side mount intercoolers cheap, they cool and flow much better than the stock unit. That will help you a little but that little T-25 is your biggest bottle neck at this point. I'd look into something that doesn't die off so soon and a larger set of injectors. You already have DSMLink which is great, just watch some of the demo videos on the ECMLink site and read up on it. Im sure you will catch on pretty quick, it's a fairly user friendly piece of software.

BTW, how do you like that fuel lab regulator? I got a aeromotive compact unit im thinking about replacing.
Click to expand...
Hey thanks for the input. I am definitely putting A/C back but I'm sticking with the FMIC. In my closet as we speak I have a VRSF kit, Tial bov, FP intake, SD setup, Aluminum radiator with 2 slim fans and shroud, FP exhaust manifold, HX35 in BEP housing, PR SS MVS o2 housing, 950cc injectors and a bunch of little odds and ends that don't really add performance.

I plan on putting that stuff on really soon, this is the reason for me going to the track to begin with. I wanted to see where I'm at versus where I will be. Also I love the Fuel Lab. I had an Aeromotive but I believe I had one of the improper machined ones because as soon as I shut the car off, pressure dropped to 0 and it took a little longer to start than normal. FUel lab has no issues and its a pretty black :D.

Blurred Talon said:
You can't post elgs on the forum so you need to DL it, unzip and then open the log.
Click to expand...
Yup this is correct. Took me a couple trys to figure that out :p.
 
#11 ·
The only thing I noticed off hand is that your BoostEst is reading about 10psi. You said your max boost was 15.5 but what you really need to do is take a log and see where your boost is from 5k to 6k on your boost gauge and then we can dial it in from there.
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
I finally got around to taking another log. My boost was acting kind of strage I noticed, it felt to me (the only way I can describe it) like the wastegate kept opening and closing like it was unstable?

I read through my Truboost instructions and found a Spring adjustment, turns out mine was too low, hence the reason I think it kept opening and made the car hesitate a lot. It builds boost better and holds more steady. It is still dropping before redline but I think that is just the nature of the t25.

What is really weird is this log shows a higher IDC, higher airflow numbers and yet 0 knock? Like I said I am really still new to this so let me know what you think.

This is just a quick 2nd to 3rd highway pull. I know most people don't like to run IDC to 100% and I topped out around 85% what is the highest people go? I really feel like the fixed wastegate thing and a little more boost I'm in the 13's.
 

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Discussion starter · #13 ·
Also before I go to the track again, I hope to have my AEM WB wired to the ECU for logging as well as my FP rewire done. I looked at a couple other peoples logs and they were running 2x the airflow that I am and the AFRest never goes below 11. Am I running rich?
 
#14 · (Edited)
Were you scared to keep your pedal mashed through the whole pull? LoL you slightly lifted at the end of the run. That will throw off your top end tune. Make sure to keep your foot in it the whole way so you can get a more accurate reading of how things look.

80% IDC is about where you want to be to give your injectors some headroom. You're right at that point. (Edit: If you turn the boost up you're going to run out of this headroom.)

You don't have any kind of WB setup so it is (basically) pointless to go out and do pulls as you're not able to tune after the pull. I mean, you can eyeball your WB and remember what it said at certain points, but the only way to do it 'right' is to have your WB included in your log.

I also noticed you have your global fuel set at -1.2%. Was this to help your combined FT tuning or AirFlowPerRev?

BoostEst shows 11.1 psi @ 5499 RPM. Make sure your boost gauge is pretty close to this number if you can help it. Remember to set all the proper parameters for this function. Boost leak test your car up to about 20 psi before you go and turn the boost up. Don't turn it up until you can log your WB through DSMlink and do some actual logged tuning.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
HOT97ECLIPSEGSX said:
Were you scared to keep your pedal mashed through the whole pull? LoL you slightly lifted at the end of the run. That will throw off your top end tune. Make sure to keep your foot in it the whole way so you can get a more accurate reading of how things look.

80% IDC is about where you want to be to give your injectors some headroom. You're right at that point. (Edit: If you turn the boost up you're going to run out of this headroom.)

You don't have any kind of WB setup so it is (basically) pointless to go out and do pulls as you're not able to tune after the pull. I mean, you can eyeball your WB and remember what it said at certain points, but the only way to do it 'right' is to have your WB included in your log.

I also noticed you have your global fuel set at -1.2%. Was this to help your combined FT tuning or AirFlowPerRev?

BoostEst shows 11.1 psi @ 5499 RPM. Make sure your boost gauge is pretty close to this number if you can help it. Remember to set all the proper parameters for this function. Boost leak test your car up to about 20 psi before you go and turn the boost up. Don't turn it up until you can log your WB through DSMlink and do some actual logged tuning.
Click to expand...
It was just an on ramp to highway pull I didn't want to go too fast and get caught lol. As for the WB, WOT it goes to like 10.4 rather quickly and then creeps up slowly (leaner correct?) I have not adjusted fuel at all so I have no idea what the -1.2% is about? Next log I'll do will have my WB logging. I think the boost est is pretty accurate, it definitely falls off at higher RPM's. I think this week sometime I'll get a boost leak test just to be sure. Thanks for the help.
 
#16 ·
You need to do your pulls on as flat of a surface as possible. Doing a pull down hill, up hill or through a S-curve isn't going to do you well when it comes to track times. You need to make sure your engine is under the same (or real close) load as it would be at the track. It is easier for a car to make power and work going down hill than it is for it to make power on a flat surface.

The global fuel I'm referring to is on your fuel tab. You'll see your global fuel setting says -1.2%. If you have stock injectors change it back to 0. You'll want to do the CombinedFT (Combined Fuel Trim) calibration so you ensure you're getting the right amount of fuel (within a +/- 5%) while you drive. Information on that is on their website and in the forum.

You'll want to be at about 11.4:1 when doing a WOT pull. Only turn the boost up once you've boost leak tested your car and you know you don't have boost leaks. You'll need bigger injectors, too.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
HOT97ECLIPSEGSX said:
You need to do your pulls on as flat of a surface as possible. Doing a pull down hill, up hill or through a S-curve isn't going to do you well when it comes to track times. You need to make sure your engine is under the same (or real close) load as it would be at the track. It is easier for a car to make power and work going down hill than it is for it to make power on a flat surface.

The global fuel I'm referring to is on your fuel tab. You'll see your global fuel setting says -1.2%. If you have stock injectors change it back to 0. You'll want to do the CombinedFT (Combined Fuel Trim) calibration so you ensure you're getting the right amount of fuel (within a +/- 5%) while you drive. Information on that is on their website and in the forum.

You'll want to be at about 11.4:1 when doing a WOT pull. Only turn the boost up once you've boost leak tested your car and you know you don't have boost leaks. You'll need bigger injectors, too.
Click to expand...
I don't really have anywhere to do pulls except the highway or track, and my whole point of this thread is to get my car where I can run 13's before dropping the t-25. I have an HX35 and all supporting mods sitting in my closet ready to go on including 1000cc injectors.

However the surface was neither up or downhill. I was simply in 2nd gear on the ramp, once I hit highway I shifted into 3rd and went WOT. Pulled quickly to over the speed limit, hence the reason I let off early. Yeah it's not a perfect pull but it's all I have to work with right now.

As far as the global fuel setting, now that I remember, I think I put in 450cc and it automatically did the adjustment?
 
#18 · (Edited)
OH must suck if you really don't have anywhere to do a pull haha. If you really want to be able to run 13s on your hair dryer, then do the following:

1. Boost leak test to 20 psi.
2. Have your WB loggable through ECMlink.
3. Find the flattest surface and do a 3rd gear full out balls to the wall pull from 3k to 7k @ 100% pedal mashed
4. ECMlink shouldn't change your global with any injector. You have to do it manually. 1.2% really isn't much, but it may effect your idle. Once you change it back to 0%, it may run a little weird for a bit, but the car will correct the 1.2% change and you'll be back to how you were. See THIS for a injector "start" on specific injector sizes and brands. See THIS for when your 2g ECU will update itself with fuel trim information.
5. Try adding a degree or 2 of timing on your timing sliders. You'll see a noticeable difference in power when you do this. If you get knock doing this, then back down from 2* to 1*. If you get knock at 1*, then don't run any extra lol.
 
#19 ·
I can vouch for it sucking balls not having anywhere to do a decent logged pull. Everywhere is either residential, constantly patrolled by cops, or full of inclines/turns.


Honestly, I think the best place to tune is at the track. It's the perfect place to make a solid logged pull, and from there you can see the benefits or drawbacks to what you are doing rather than guessing. Like Dustin said, aim for low/mid 11's under full boost. 10's is too rich. But, to hell with the sliders. Adjust timing and fuel directly where you can. I never have agreed with or liked the notion of tuning a general area with sliders. You aren't on SD, so it's not that difficult at all. 2G's already have a very conservative timing map, so adding a little during spool up and a degree or two under full boost will make a noticeable increase in power.
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the help guys I really do appreciate it. I just wish one of you could come to the track with me and help me tune on the spot lol.

Anyway, I went to the track again tonight and it sucked :(. Firstly I didn't get there til like 10:10, apparently runs stop at 11 so I only got to run one time and of coarse I screwed it up big time.

I did get my AEM WB hooked up to log, I also went in to the timing sliders and added only 1 degree of timing up to like 7000rpms. I think I did it right, but peak timing on this run is basically the same as my previous ones??

On my launch I couldn't get the freakin' E-brake down so that screwed my reaction time, and then I accidentally hit my rev limiter so I ran a terrible time. Here is my new log though, its weird because there was very little knock, a tad bit more boost and like 1 more lb/min airflow. You guys think I need to go up on timing one more degree and do a pull?

Image

Me on the right, Civic on the left lol.
 

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Bradikus7
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