[DCJ98GST]

Oh by the way get the hard s-pipe for your car. The one between the throttle body and uicp. Just a lil hint

Why I thought that the throttlebody elbow on the 2G's are not that restrictive?

 

[MaJiKTeRRoR]

Why I thought that the throttlebody elbow on the 2G's are not that restrictive?

They aren't but the flex-pipe flexs shut under high boost and high rpm's.....mmm what does that mean

 

[MaJiKTeRRoR]

alright that was being a smart ass. sorry. I just noticed a great gain from replacing the flex pipe with a hard one. Just give it a try. It actually replaces the throttle body elbow. When you leave that flex pipe on it begins to close itself. it shrinks. I just would imagine the performance comes from the hard pipe not flexing and allowing a greater volume of air to the throttlebody.

 

[MaJiKTeRRoR]

it shrinks at high rpms. sorry for the three posts in a row

 

[WheelHopGST]

If your going with FWD, I'd def. make sure you know/learn to launch cause traction and wheel hop is a bitch. Another thing about street cars is the FWD guys usually have lower HP goals for obvious reasons, some guy around here has a 95 GST w/ 20G and all the goodies and he's scared to drive it, even at 70 on the highway he has traction issues...But on the good side there's less shit to break and you put down more to the wheels and they weigh less

 

[slipspeed]

I have a theory about turbos, and I may be wrong, but here is my theory on turbo selection for a FWD car. The bigger the better. My thought is that FWDs have a bad problem with traction. Small turbos hit hard down low in the RPM's when the car is not yet really moving, where as a larger turbo wouldn't really start spooling until the car is already moving 15-20mph, similar to going from a roll.....if I was leaning more towards drag racing, that's what I would do...any thoughts?

You would think this to be true for obvious reasons but the focus really needs to be on how linear the powerband is and what kind of throttle finesse is needed to control that ever narrowing band between full on and off HP. Yes the bigger turbos are laggy and you think you will bite easier off the line...however, the ability to control the sharp spike in torque is the true question. AWDs benefit the most from the big turbos because they have all four tires punching the power to the ground and can afford to launch at near full boost. It very important for the powerband to be linear and controllable with a FWD. This plays an important role in the cars handling ability for autoX and safety purposes as well. Understeer is a bitch at WOT through a turn. Something to compare...

 

[colonelfox]

I have a theory about turbos, and I may be wrong, but here is my theory on turbo selection for a FWD car. The bigger the better. My thought is that FWDs have a bad problem with traction. Small turbos hit hard down low in the RPM's when the car is not yet really moving, where as a larger turbo wouldn't really start spooling until the car is already moving 15-20mph, similar to going from a roll.....if I was leaning more towards drag racing, that's what I would do...any thoughts?

slipspeed is right. I can chirp them in 3rd with ease, and that's on the t25
If you don't know how to properly modulate the throttle, you will spin the tires regardless of turbo size. You need to find the point of slip where the tires just start to loose traction, and keep the throttle positioned properly so as not to let them spin. That's how I do it anyway, and it works extremely well. After a while, you don't even pay attention to it, it's just second nature. Your times will be lower than someone who gets on it, and holds it there, but you will maintain traction, and that's key.
You don't buy a FWD and expect to ruin an AWD's day at the track. You buy it for the days when you run into an AWD from a roll, and show him your ass from carlengths away.

 

[GST StreetRacer]

I have a theory about turbos, and I may be wrong, but here is my theory on turbo selection for a FWD car. The bigger the better. My thought is that FWDs have a bad problem with traction. Small turbos hit hard down low in the RPM's when the car is not yet really moving, where as a larger turbo wouldn't really start spooling until the car is already moving 15-20mph, similar to going from a roll.....if I was leaning more towards drag racing, that's what I would do...any thoughts?

exactly my way of thinking about it, thats why i'm going with a turbo capable of sucking in small towns, and a killer top end, in other words, a supra killer

 

[mavisky]

suspension and tires will be your biggest gain other than a new turbo. you can make all the power in the world, but if you can't get it to the ground its useless.

my old setup (no 16g, lsd, or bov in sig) i was able to turn a 14.0 at 105. and that was with blown shocks. the 1 big factor i think in that was my rear springs. my gf taped lal my launches as well as alot of other cars, and i noticed that even with my blown rear shocks the car wasn't squating back on its ass as much as alot of the other cars. on this particular day i had a huge pre-turbo leak and i'm sure 13's were more than attainable. as soon as i get to the track on my new setup i'll be sure to report it to you.

 

[colonelfox]

exactly my way of thinking about it, thats why i'm going with a turbo capable of sucking in small towns, and a killer top end, in other words, a supra killer

That's exactly what I'm doing with mine, but I realize and accept the fact that I'll probably never turn an awesome time. All I care about is disgusting topend.

 

[Orange Crush]

You would think this to be true for obvious reasons but the focus really needs to be on how linear the powerband is and what kind of throttle finesse is needed to control that ever narrowing band between full on and off HP. Yes the bigger turbos are laggy and you think you will bite easier off the line...however, the ability to control the sharp spike in torque is the true question. AWDs benefit the most from the big turbos because they have all four tires punching the power to the ground and can afford to launch at near full boost. It very important for the powerband to be linear and controllable with a FWD. This plays an important role in the cars handling ability for autoX and safety purposes as well. Understeer is a bitch at WOT through a turn. Something to compare...

I agree that linear power distribution is a very key factor to be concerned with. Even still, I think the difficulty of feathering the throttle to find traction at a roll is easier and less detrimental to a good time slip, than gaffing up the hole shot. You screw that up, and your time is shot no matter what you do after that.

As far as autocrossing, my biggest problem was always the exit speed. As soon as I approached exit and even thought about giving it some gas to come out of the corner, the inside tire would just begin to blaze away in all its smoky glory. The T25 was bad enough....the 16G, forget it, I just wait till I'm pointed straight, LOL!!

 

[FyxxterZC]

Cool deal. I do the same thing when I autocross. Brake late, modulate, quarter-half throttle, straighten her up, WOT. Works really well. This is a really good post started up. And thank you those who have posted mods and given dollar amounts. Helps me to see an end goal. Oh have you autocross guys seen the rre lower stress bar? I have a friend who has it and he says it's just golden. (looks like it connects the transmission to the frame) I'm thinking of what would be the best turbo for autocross, but it would have to be something that spooled fairly quickly. The 92 tsi awd I had wasn't quite good enough in the spool department. Then again it was stock with no porting. Just wasn't use to the shift in the power/torque band. If that L1R can spool around 3 grand, man that would be so great.

 

[redfwdturbo]

turbos

i think for you a good turbo would be a fully ported small 16g. it would spool up really fast and would help it the end buy not breaking you. a fully ported 14b might do the same for and you wont have to spend as much money. i have had friends that run a 12.0 in the 1/4 with a fully ported 14b.

cool
Eric

 

[alanseijas]

Re: turbos

i think for you a good turbo would be a fully ported small 16g. it would spool up really fast and would help it the end buy not breaking you. a fully ported 14b might do the same for and you wont have to spend as much money. i have had friends that run a 12.0 in the 1/4 with a fully ported 14b.

cool
Eric

Are you friends running FWD?!

 

[underPRESSURE_84]

I know everyone's got a "friend" in the high 12's, but....

My "friend" has a 1995 GST...He ran a best of 13.4@10?

Mods he had:

Stock SMIC
K&N FIPK
Walbro 225
MBC@20 psi
ACT 2600
APEXi Dunk Cat-back
Test Pipe
APEXi GT Downpipe
16G
1G CAS (from me!)
K-Mart Blue Light Special Tires [can't remember the name but they are 215's, (not wide)]
RRE LICP & UICP
RRE Front Tower Brace

Wheel hopping all the way down the track he ran the 13.4

Mods he has now:

SAFC
Pocketlogger

Ran a 14.6 last month spinning all the way down the track...

He can drive awsome..I just think he needs a little bit of tuning advice, injectors, FMIC, FPR, some decent tires, and maybe a little more suspension work to be well into the twelves...Although he whooped up on another friend with a 97 Talon AWD with a Frank 4! Top end on his car is incredible.

 

[97GS-Toy]

OK, here's a question for the more experienced tuners out there:

There has already been talk here (and other places) about a linear power band being better than a huge turbo that spools late, but hard. Though I'm new, I intuitively agree. My question is, could a standalone like the AEM EMS be used to limit boost/fuel linearly with RPM or speed? Combined with a studderbox (also with the EMS), I would think you could set up a FWD to launch with your foot to the floor. The EMS could let more power in as speed/rpm increased without the driver having to feather or feel anything. Then maybe a smaller turbo (16G, big16G) with a quicker response time would be more appropriate, so it could 'follow' the curve dictated by the EMS better.

Am I completely off base here?

 

[colonelfox]

I think that is exactly what is needed, and if I'm not mistaken, the AEM EMS does just that. A coworker just installed one into his Supra, but I haven't talked to him about it yet. I'm going to go that route when it comes time to go standalone. The thing is loaded with features.
The idea of a linear throttle, even when you have it floored, would be a huge step in controlling a high horsepowered FWD car. Essentially aftermarket traction control. I know the EMS can be used as a boost controller, and there's a brief disucssion about it on Supra forums. Now you got me thinking. Has anyone used one with a DSM yet?

 

[cmeflibi]

ok my question to all of you guys is....can we convert our FWD to AWD. This dilemma has been plauging me for many many months as i have waited for my engine to go back in. Im putting a completely built motor in my car tomorrow morning. I have hks cams, port polish head, crower titanium retainers/springs, eagle rods, je forged pistons w/9:1 comp rat., balance shafts removed, 1g intake man/throttle body w/egr blockoff, arp's up the ass, and soon a t3/t4 setup w/ front mount. Other mods such as fuel, intake, and got me some custom IC pipes made and what not. The only problem, that stuff costed alot for my whole engine rebuild it ran me about 3,000, but could have been cheeper minus the powder coating and what not. any ways, my huge dilemma is if this is a huge waste of time because all im going to do is spin my tires. Now mind you, im not going to do a huge amount of track racing, but i will be out there at least 15 times every summer. this is mostly a street/daily driver pumping around 5-600 HP. I took care of the motor mounts with the mild mounts from Energy, but haven't had the money for springs and shocks. To actaully hook this beast up, i'll probly have to get a LSD and slicks im guessing. This is my first car, so I can't get too pickey being that im only 16. I don't want to have to get rid of this for a gsx, but it seems like the only way to really hit an 11 sec time slip, which is my ultimate goal. I figure replacing the gas tank, ECU, rear spindles and what not, moving the exhaust/DP for room for driveshaft, and the trans stuff, I think it can be done. I could yank this stuff off a wrecked car or something. That is my ultimate question.

 

[mavisky]

ok my question to all of you guys is....can we convert our FWD to AWD. This dilemma has been plauging me for many many months as i have waited for my engine to go back in. Im putting a completely built motor in my car tomorrow morning. I have hks cams, port polish head, crower titanium retainers/springs, eagle rods, je forged pistons w/9:1 comp rat., balance shafts removed, 1g intake man/throttle body w/egr blockoff, arp's up the ass, and soon a t3/t4 setup w/ front mount. Other mods such as fuel, intake, and got me some custom IC pipes made and what not. The only problem, that stuff costed alot for my whole engine rebuild it ran me about 3,000, but could have been cheeper minus the powder coating and what not. any ways, my huge dilemma is if this is a huge waste of time because all im going to do is spin my tires. Now mind you, im not going to do a huge amount of track racing, but i will be out there at least 15 times every summer. this is mostly a street/daily driver pumping around 5-600 HP. I took care of the motor mounts with the mild mounts from Energy, but haven't had the money for springs and shocks. To actaully hook this beast up, i'll probly have to get a LSD and slicks im guessing. This is my first car, so I can't get too pickey being that im only 16. I don't want to have to get rid of this for a gsx, but it seems like the only way to really hit an 11 sec time slip, which is my ultimate goal. I figure replacing the gas tank, ECU, rear spindles and what not, moving the exhaust/DP for room for driveshaft, and the trans stuff, I think it can be done. I could yank this stuff off a wrecked car or something. That is my ultimate question.

contact www.road-race.com. i'm sure they'd love to field another one of these questions. but since they're the only place to do i'd imagine you should go to them.

p.s. from what i understood it wasn't cheap at all and could only be done on spyder gst's

 

[MaJiKTeRRoR]

fwd to awd, there is alot of posts about that, search. It will give u an idea of how much it'll cost. And also remember how much weight that'll add to a car