strong motor,good 3" exhaust no cat,16g,fuel pump,550's,afc,mbc,ported o2 and ex manifold,fmic,maintenence,good tuning

 

my motor is a stock 7-bolt but has barely been broken in lol 27000 ORIGINAL miles... is it really such a risk of the "C" word?

May sound stupid but whats an afc?

 

It's a devise that controls air and fuel in one......I think

 

ahh gotcha... those are a real eyesore though, how interchangeable is a FPR compared to an AFC?

Is there any manual tuning involved to adjust the FPR? Or is it straught bolt on?

Basically the next stage in my tune from near stock (other than UIC hardpipe, 1g bov, and 3inch exhaust) is to up the boost to 16psi or so

do I need a fuel pump and FPR to do this safely?

BTW 300HP is the eventual goal.... dont have the cash for new turbo/etc. just yet

 

the fpr is a fuel pressure regulator that usually rises the rate of the fuel pressure or decreases it depending on the adjustment you do to it via a screw on the top of the regulator. a fpr and a afc are pretty much needed in conjunction with another. the fpr will drop or raise pressure across the board and use the afc to fine tune per rpm increment. hope this helps! some companys offer a basic reflash or tune depending on mods. if you dont want to do the tuning yourself i would look into one of these reflashes but of course youl need an eprom ecu

 

It's a devise that controls air and fuel in one

no the afc does not control fuel it controls how much air the ECU is seeing so it tricks it into giving it differnt amounts of fuel

 

i dont think a fpr is necessary for 300 hp,i make 330whp on 16g without one

 

An aftermarket FPR won't be necessary for 300hp, like rancid said. The stock FPR can handle 550cc injectors and a rewired 190lph fuel pump.

Free mods
Clutch, ACT 2100/2600, fwd/awd
Full exhaust, 2.5" or 3" w/no cat
1g BOV/better than 2g stock BOV
Upper/lower intercooler pipes
MBC @ ~17psi on 16g (small, big or evoIII... the small 16g will be just fine for that goal)
rewired 190lph fuel pump, maybe 550cc injectors?
Datalogger/MMcD

That should put you pretty close to the 300hp mark, hopefully I'm not forgetting anything. You can also port the exhaust manifold and o2 housing, it won't be needed for 300hp but it'll help prevent boost creep and costs next to nothing to do.

 

...hopefully I'm not forgetting anything. ...

I would add a MKIV side mount IC. Cheap and sleeper. No need to go to a big front mount for 300hp.

Do you want 300 crank hp or 300 wheel hp? There is s significant difference.

 

I was just looking for 300 crank... I'm aware of the difference

especially in AWD format you lose alot of the power trying to get it to the ground..

Iowaboostin:
Free mods...................................almost DONE
Clutch, ACT 2100/2600, fwd/awd.....is this really necessary? I have a new stock clutch
Full exhaust, 2.5" or 3" w/no cat......DONE (except for the cats)
1g BOV/better than 2g stock BOV....DONE
Upper/lower intercooler pipes..........just the lower pipe (i was told the upper isnt as vital)
MBC @ ~17psi on 16g (small, big or evoIII... the small 16g will be just fine for that goal)
rewired 190lph fuel pump.......what do you mean by rewired? diff than a walbro?
550cc injectors
Datalogger/MMcD......any specific reccomendations?

THANX

 

how much modification is needed to swap the stock DSM turbo to a small 16g?

 

The 14b will take you to 300hp for much less money than a new turbo. But if you don't want to buy a used one, the small 16g is your cheapest bet.

 

how much modification is needed to swap the stock DSM turbo to a small 16g?

Because you're a 2g, you'll need a j-pipe, oil feed line, and new gaskets.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g16ginstallkit.htm

 

how do you guys feel about a Garrett big T-28?

 

the 16G in any form above the small is a much better and effective alternative than the T28, the T28 is just as much as a EVOIII ( $530~ machV), and the kit ( $200~), just fork out the same roughly, - beleive me, you wont mind the extra power capability.

 

Iowaboostin:
Free mods...................................almost DONE
Clutch, ACT 2100/2600, fwd/awd.....is this really necessary? I have a new stock clutch
Full exhaust, 2.5" or 3" w/no cat......DONE (except for the cats)
1g BOV/better than 2g stock BOV....DONE
Upper/lower intercooler pipes..........just the lower pipe (i was told the upper isnt as vital)
MBC @ ~17psi on 16g (small, big or evoIII... the small 16g will be just fine for that goal)
rewired 190lph fuel pump.......what do you mean by rewired? diff than a walbro?
550cc injectors
Datalogger/MMcD......any specific reccomendations?

THANX

IMO, any modding at all on a DSM is pushing the stock clutch.

Have you taken a look at the UICP? It's a piece of plastic crap that flattens out to about 1.25" when it goes behind the air filter box. Get that out of there ASAP.

Rewiring a fuel pump literally rewiring it, you're replacing your existing wiring with larger a larger gauges. Do a search on it and you'll find everything you need.

You can piece together a datalogger set (program is free to download) for dirt cheap, it's kind of a pain but it's worth it if you want to save a few bucks. You can also check on ebaymotors for a seller called 'bluelitesrus' who sells full MMcD kits (cables, MMcD, palm) for about $80 shipped.

I also agree with thegreatms, while it's not extremely vital, the stock SMIC will get heatsoaked very easily running around at 17psi all day. A Supra MKIV side mount will do the trick.

 

IMO, any modding at all on a DSM is pushing the stock clutch.

Its like $1000+ (CDN) to swap clutch at a local garage ... would it be possible to do it on my own?

Have you taken a look at the UICP? It's a piece of plastic crap that flattens out to about 1.25" when it goes behind the air filter box. Get that out of there ASAP.

Yes I have, as I said I took it out and replaced with a 2.5" hardpipe and 1G BOV.... i only replaced half of it though (the part that goes down to the SMIC) I was told the upper part that I didnt swap wasnt important to change

 

Its like $1000+ (CDN) to swap clutch at a local garage ... would it be possible to do it on my own?

This is a question you will have to answer for yourself. If I were you, I'd look up the procedure for changing out the clutch then after reading it ask yourself if you feel comfortable doing it. Some would say it's really easy, and others would say it's impossible. You are the only one who can figure that out for yourself. Also, try finding a friend who knows how to change and clutch and see if he/she would be willing to help out.

 

300 crank HP is easy.
14B swap.
Full exhaust (2.5" or 3".)
Free mods.
MBC.
Fuel pump.

 

You can piece together a datalogger set (program is free to download) for dirt cheap, it's kind of a pain but it's worth it if you want to save a few bucks. You can also check on ebaymotors for a seller called 'bluelitesrus' who sells full MMcD kits (cables, MMcD, palm) for about $80 shipped.

Is there some new verson of MMCD that works on OBDII vehicles? If not, then you'll need a logger for OBDII.

 

I think for OBD-II there is another free-ware. Palm-n-stein or Tune-n-stein or something.

I agree 300 crank-hp is pretty easy. If you just got the new clutch I would stick with it until it starts slipping. If you can find a good used T28, get that. Otherwise it only makes sense to go to a 16G.

Howevere I also think a clutch job is do-able at home. It was the first major job i did on my car. First time it took 3 days with a helper (~6 hours per day). It's pretty simple, there are just lots of steps.

 

Is 300 crank really that easy? I'm running this setup on my 2G and didn't think I was pushing that much HP, but its not like I've dynoed my car or anything.

6 bolt bottom end, balance shafts removed
2G head (Didn't have enough money for the complete swap)
Ported 14b on a mildly ported 2g manifold, I normally run it at around 18 psi
Ported o2 housing, full 2.5" turbo back with test pipe
Hard piping from the turbo to the throttle body
Dejon tools intake that uses the top portion of the stock intake with cone filter
1G bov
ACT Flywheel and 2600 clutch
Re-wired stock fuel pump

 

high boost,not for the timid
18 is mild in my opinion,i did 330 whp 23 psi on c-16 on big 16g,bone stock 1g 7 bolt,other than 264's and upgraded lifters

 

Hard intercooler piping & 1G BOV
supra side mount (you don't need this but its recommended)
ported 14b
port exhaust manifold/o2 housing
2.5" exhaust
fuel pump (walbro 190 or 255)
s-afc/logger setup
New plugs/wires/general maintenance
Clutch

Alot of used parts float around on the ca.dsm.org website's bulletin board. Might save you trouble bringing stuff across the border and save you some money.

 

thanks for all the responses guys... i think i'll save up for a 16g and maybe do a custom FMIC setup (Supra SMIC would suffice but I'm installing a 2Gb eclipse clipped front bumper and just love the look )

btw the 300hp goal is just to one-up a buddy with a modified/tuned '05 WRX