Go for it... Make damn sure to take plenty of pictures.

 

Why are you wanting to do the swap?

Are you going to be like everyone else and talk a big game and not do it? Let's see some pictures of what you've set up to do it, and why. Tell your story of how the idea came about, where you're going to be doing it, projected amount of time, etc.

I'm not trying to shoot you down, but we've all seen the threads of putting an Evo 8 engine into a 420a DSM, and swapping the 420a for the 4G63. In the end...everyone has decided it's not worth it.

Is it worth it to you?

 

I'm glad you asked this question.

In the past, I've owned a Talon ESi-T (420A with 14B), Talon TSi AWD (14B), and Talon TSi AWD (BigT28Killer) and a Spyder GS. I've sold all, and have money burning in my pocket. I have a two and half car garage, with enough hand/pneumatic tools that would let me do 99% of the jobs I need. The idea has been in the back of my head (as well as others) for quite some time.

I want to do my research before I start. Once I find its feasbile and the square blocks go into the square holes, I will go ahead and start. I've also done 2.3L->302 Mustang swaps, and 4.6L->5.4L swaps.

Is this worth it to me? Yes. When I find blown motor 3/S chassis or shells all the time, and still have parts from my 4G63 days laying around.


The origin of this post was to collect information about possible swap ideas, measurement and past information about relative swaps. The reasons behind the swap is already stated in the post. At this point, this is completely theoretical. That is why we have forums such as this to discus these topics. Without theoretical ideas, brilliant solutions do not follow.

Thank you.

-Tahleel

 

So the only point of doing this swap is to...have more room to work on the engine???

I don't get it.

 

No, please read the post. Extra room is one of several factors. The 4G63 is a much more simple engine compared to the 6G72. An inline engine versus a V-type. One turbo versus two. Parts are readily available and cheaper to come by than 6G motors. Just to give you an idea, the 6-speed manual trans in the 2G 3/S can cost ATLEAST $2000, that is if you can find one. A long block can cost ATLEAST $1000. A 7-bolt motor and trans can be found for under $1000. A 6-bolt motor less.

If you have a 3/S shell, why use a 6G72 when you can attain the same streetable power levels with a 4G63, at a lower cost?

-Tahleel

 

^^^ +1. Bigger engine bay, fatter pig. Not quite sure what you're trying to accomplish here, but go for it if you're ready for a headache.

 

Also, to add onto my post.

According to MSN Autos, these are curb weights:
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT BASE, Manual: 3219lbs
1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse BASE, Manual: 2725lbs

Out of the ~500 lb difference, one would have to see the weight difference between the two engines. The V6 has a bigger block. An extra head. Two extra pistons and rods. An extra exhaust manifold, two intake manifold runners.

Subtracting that can leave a ~200-250 difference, which is not a big differential.

-Tahleel

 

Why not just sell the shell and buy a DSM if they have so many advantages???!?

THIS MAKES NO SENSE.

DSMs are plenty easy to work on, and weigh 500lbs less.

 

Not everyone wants a DSM. I've been there, done that. I want a different chassis.

Is it just that hard to understand?

-Tahleel

 

The base models don't have to deal with the extra weight of the AWD you said you wanted to swap in.

 

Swap the AWD+4G63T into a Honda hatch, that would make more sense.

I purposely used the base model figures. The reason being is that the estimates will not be accurate, as the transmissions, t-case, driveshafts, and rear differential weighs different. We would have to eliminate those unknowns for an accurate figure.

As far as swapping into a Honda hatch, why? I do not want to own a thief magnet. If I owned a Honda, they have plenty of choices I would use besides the 4G63, but I do not want one.

-Tahleel

 

Swap the AWD+4G63T into a Honda hatch, that would make more sense.

 

Just do what you want.

Make sure you keep us updated with pics; as skeptical as I am, it would still be pretty cool to see someone try this.

 

Wow. I am surprised at all of the negative comments you are receiving. Although we have had our fair share of crazy swaps talked about on here before. So I guess I can understand why there is so much hate being thrown around.

You have come in here with a different kind of attitude though. You understand that it is not easy, and are not claiming that you know how to do it. You are asking for some input on possible complications. I hope you can do it. If you have the skills and tools available, why not try.

As the saying goes, anything is possible with enough $.

 

Success with your project

For now all I can say is

 

Good luck man, you're gonna need it.

 

Honestly, I've seen everything run with 4g63's, from porsches to rx-7's to hondas, why not a 3/S? If nothing else, it would be crazy to look at.

The only problems I forsee are these:

The motor mounts are gonna be crazy, to hang that engine out enough to line up with the rest of the driveline.

You'll have to get custom driveshafts EVERYWHERE.

The extra room will start hurting once you start getting up in power, since your mounts are gonna twist the crap out of your frame, since they'll have to be long.

 

Ok guys seriously, let the man do what he wants. I'm sure a bunch of you had idea's that no one else might have understood, but it was just something you wanted to do. I say good luck with it, and I think it would be something awesome to see. Keep us updated!

 

Sorry to be a douche but you sound like one of the many newbs that comes to the forums and talks large but has NO follow through. Don't mean to be rude be we have seen it MANY times before. I seriously don't think you are any different.

If you do actually do this.........which I highly doubt.........then you would be a hero. So if you do plan on this show the car and progress or stop talking and wasting eveyones valued time with delusions of grandeur.

Again not trying to be a dick but be real and honest about this in all ways.

 

Guys this is the one and ony warning....keep this thread on track and free of BS. He is serious about the swap. We may not all agree with the idea behind it but lets see where it goes.

 

Owning both platforms, there are a couple of decisions you need to make before dropping cash which might seem obvious, but I didn't see you mention them:

1) what driveline do you intend to use? The 3S rear end - regardless of generation - will NOT be compatible with any DSM rear ends, either in gearing or in fitment of the unit. The 3S rear subframe is semi-modular though, so if you fab what you need into a spare subframe FIRST you can make the rest of the driveline work - it's all straight lines and deflection angles from there.

2) What generation chassis you choose for the 3S will have some SERIOUS repercussions all the way around. Early 3S cars have all-wheel steering systems which are a semi-self-contained hydraulic steering system for the rear. Also, the computerized environmental system on most turbo chassis are INCOMPATIBLE with the AC systems used on DSM's. Also - the power steering, electronic suspension (if so equipped), and dash panel are not going to play with the DSM ECU and wiring harness. Luckily, the active exhaust system (if so equipped) is a simple switch-and-wire system andcan be can be mated easily with a custom downpipe (same side of the chassis, plenty of room from the front flange because of the rear downpipe on the V6). It can be mated up, but I'm not sure the "touring" mode will work, because I'm not sure what signals it to open the valve under load.

If you strip all supplemental systems these are not issues - but if you want the creature comforts and cool points, you'll have a few bottles of Advil in your future.

 

I say go for it, the motor mount torquing issue will be something to solve but after you get this all together i'm sure some GT35R and bigger turbo owners will envy your space in your engine bay and how you don't have to rediculously relocate half your lines and whatnot to make it work.

 

Go for it it shouldnt be that hard to move the front engine mount in closer or what ever mount you have to, just reinforce it well and crank the boost.

 

I hope you try to do this. It'd be interesting to see. We've seen the 6G72 put into a DSM before...

Others have mentioned SERIOUS issues above though.
If it's all completed your going to have a very heavy car with no torque once-so-ever. Even stroked and overbored your all of a sudden going to have this magical powerband between 7-9k RPM. Anything below and the car will be slow as hell.

The 4 bolt 6G72 has forged internals. That's why it's more expensive. The transmissions and driveline are good stuffs (GETRAG).
The AWS, AA, ECS, and Active exhaust can all be pulled out and isn't needed. So I wouldn't be too worried about all of that. Your issues are going to be of gearing, placement, and torque.

 

I hope you make this work! Good luck! I like seeing new things.

 

Why not just do a RWD 4G63 swap into it?

 

Why not just do a mighty max, i think hes going for simple/unique/cost effective.

 

Good luck with the swap, Thinking out of the box is always a good thing. Makes life interesting. Personally i think the engine mounts would be the easiest part. Pics pics pics.