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4g63vs4g64 blocks

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7.4K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  Randy954  
#1 · (Edited)
I know ive been making alot of threads about my motor lately but I just cant seem to find the answers im looking for by searching.. Anyways my motor setup as of right now is a 4g63 7 bolt head, 4g63 6 bolt block, and a 4g64 crank. Now with this setup my bore is 86.5. The 4g63 block stock is 85mm and the 4g64 is 86.5mm so with that being said which setup would be more reliable?
The 4g63 block bored to 86.5 from 85, or the 4g64 block which comes stock at 86.5mm?
 
#2 ·
Me personally i would say a 4g64 block in the standard bore would be more reliable then a 4g63 block bored out to 4g64 spec due to a thicker bore wall. Having 1.5mm bored out of a block is quite a bit of metal. Just my 2 cents. Probably it will be fine but maybe someone else has an opinion on this. I know the g4cs block (2.4 out of a Hyundai sonata 1988-91) will line up all the oil drain holes with the 4g dohc head. I see some people use other blocks and have to plug some exposed oil drain holes.
 
#11 ·
I giggled when I read:


...Not a lot of power, just 20-25psi on an E316g??? That, sir, is more power than a Honda will ever see. We're just used to hearing about retarded high numbers from some drag racers.
 
#5 ·
The 4G64/G4CS block uses the same bore spacing as the 4G63, they just have a 1.5mm larger bore (86.5mm vs. 85.0mm). So yes it would have thinner walls than a 4G63. Basically it starts out as a .060 over 4g63 motor. Don't forget the 64/G4 have a 6mm taller deck height as well to make up for the 100mm stroke vs. the 88mm stroke on 63.
 
#7 ·
To add to that, I'm guessing Mitsubishi engineers figured they could get away with the thinner cylinder walls since there weren't any turbocharged 4G64/G4CS applications from the factory. Probably just an extra margin of safety on the 4G63, although I have personally used a .020 over G4CS without any problems. That's equal to a .080 over 4G63. Physically the blocks are identical other than the raised deck height and some oil passages.
 
#13 ·
So basically either block would have the same strength. So my guess would be to just use the 4g63 block since you would have to change some parts if you were to use the 4g64 block. I will just keep my 4g63 block then since there really isnt a difference.

Also wouldnt 20-25 psi on a e16g be around 300-350hp.. which really isnt that much for our blocks even bored .60 over . Am I right?
 
#15 ·
So basically either block would have the same strength. So my guess would be to just use the 4g63 block since you would have to change some parts if you were to use the 4g64 block. I will just keep my 4g63 block then since there really isnt a difference.

Also wouldnt 20-25 psi on a e16g be around 300-350hp.. which really isnt that much for our blocks even bored .60 over . Am I right?
The difference is in the torque. The extra displacement adds to your torque down low. The other difference is 30psi on a 2.0L is about the same as a 6.0L naturally aspirated, and on a 2.4L is about the same as a 7.2L naturally aspirated, if you consider both engines with the same VE.

It's THAT much difference.
 
#16 ·
All that I have read is correct. The only things that have to be switched over are the cam gears and the timing belt from the 94 Galant in order to get the timing marks to line up the correct way. That or you could always just find a cam gear from that year and mark your 63 cam gears to have the same mark location as the 64 gears. This is what I have done (64 block/63 head). I would tell you to go this way if you want more bottom end torque and not have to rev the heck out of the engine to get the same speed as the 2.0 but I do not know personally that this is true since I have yet to get mine on the road due to fuel relay issues.
If I were to have to choose again, I would go with the 64 block again since it is taller and has the same internal components that the 2.0 has minus the pistons themselves. I have my 2.4 bored 0.20 over.
 
#17 ·
So to get the 63 block to a 2.4L with a 100mm crank the block must be bored .020 over correct? So what the hell would that make you 64 block bored .020 over? lol

Have you guys been reading about these forged evo 9 pistons in the vendor announcements on tuners? They claim these pistons on 1g rods machined for the larger pin will fit these 64 blocks and make an OEM 2.4L. But at the same time they say these can be put into a 63 block with the factory crank as an upgrade vs the 2g pistons. Like I posted in that thread, this is stating that the 2g piston will go right in the 64 block to make this stroker. Wont the compression ratio be way out of wack with these? Im super confused with all of this..
 
#21 ·
So to get the 63 block to a 2.4L with a 100mm crank the block must be bored .020 over correct? So what the hell would that make you 64 block bored .020 over? lol
No sir. He has his own 64 block bored 20 over.

Have you guys been reading about these forged evo 9 pistons in the vendor announcements on tuners? They claim these pistons on 1g rods machined for the larger pin will fit these 64 blocks and make an OEM 2.4L. But at the same time they say these can be put into a 63 block with the factory crank as an upgrade vs the 2g pistons. Like I posted in that thread, this is stating that the 2g piston will go right in the 64 block to make this stroker. Wont the compression ratio be way out of wack with these? Im super confused with all of this..
The point of forged evo 9 pistons is that they're stronger than the 2g pistons, and they will (should) fit the factory bores. The compression ratio won't be out of whack, since all these engines are looking for a lower compression ratio than what you would run naturally aspirated, the only thing I would worry about was the actual piston height, as those pistons weren't cut for a 2.4, and might have an issue with oil control on the long stroke engine.
 
#20 ·
That is correct. Due to the rod angles of the 2.4 it cannot be revved out as high. However a properly built/balanced 4g64 will rev out to the stock 7600 2.0 rev limiter no problem and even further with stronger internals.

If you do plan on experimenting with evo pistons. Don't forget to machine your block for oil squirters. 4g64's and n/a 4g63's didn't have them. A lot of guys will tell you when going forged they're not really needed. I feel better safe and have all the cooling/lubrication possible than be sorry when you melt things.
 
#24 ·
Yellowz: Thanks for the info. Not sure why I was thinking .040 over. What I was getting at was, if 95mitseclipe was bored .020 over this would increase the cylinders to 87. This would in turn increase the displacement even more correct? How much displacement can be achieved out of a 64 block?

needtofix: Sorry for the confusion, I understood that he had a 64 block. Just wondered how much more displacement boring it .020 over would add.

I also understand the point of evo9 pistons being an upgrade due to being forged. They are claiming that these are a direct fitment into the 63 block AND they are installing them into a 64. Like I said, this is just saying a 2g piston will work in a 64 block? But because of the 64 block height and a piston made for a shorter block this would make the 2g piston in a 64 block have a super low compression ratio. Just like you said they are not made for the 64 block height but thats what they are claiming to put in their strokers. The vendor has not replyed to his own announcement in days so im about shoot them a call.

This site is really informative with stroker talk! By the sounds of if some of you guys have been strokin it for years now:p Thanks for the info!
 
#25 ·
Yellowz: Thanks for the info. Not sure why I was thinking .040 over. #1What I was getting at was, if 95mitseclipe was bored .020 over this would increase the cylinders to 87. This would in turn increase the displacement even more correct? How much displacement can be achieved out of a 64 block?

needtofix: Sorry for the confusion, I understood that he had a 64 block. Just wondered how much more displacement boring it .020 over would add.

I also understand the point of evo9 pistons being an upgrade due to being forged. #2They are claiming that these are a direct fitment into the 63 block AND they are installing them into a 64. Like I said, this is just saying a 2g piston will work in a 64 block? But because of the 64 block height and a piston made for a shorter block this would make the 2g piston in a 64 block have a super low compression ratio. Just like you said they are not made for the 64 block height but thats what they are claiming to put in their strokers. The vendor has not replyed to his own announcement in days so im about shoot them a call.

This site is really informative with stroker talk! By the sounds of if some of you guys have been strokin it for years now:p Thanks for the info!
:pause button:

There is an entire 4G64 thread that covers all of this in the advanced section right on this site. It has been immortalized as the top thread that you see on the main page every single time you visit the board... since they locked advanced tech. :rolleyes:

:continue:

#1.
4G63 = 85mm bore. .20 over = 85.5mm bore
.40 over = 86mm bore
.60 over = 86.5mm bore
.80 over = 87mm bore

4G64 =86.5mm bore .20 over = 87mm bore


As was initially mentioned in the thread, 4G63 block / 4G64 crank you need a specific piston (stroker) with a higher to drop the over all height because of the 6mm shorter deck height of the 4G63. This is the 2.3L setup and the BORE should be bored to the next size up from factory that will result in the desired finish. (Starting at 85.5mm typically, or .20 over bore.) The bore change is not where the added displacement comes from so much as the increase in stroke. Going from 88mm of stroke (4G63 2.0L) to 100mm of stroke... (4G64 2.4L)

Boring the block over adds a negligible amount of added displacement.
.20 over would result in 2.02L. Or less than it is even worth mentioning.

Their are specific kits that have pushed the 4G64 block into the 2.6L range. And it has little to do with the bore.


#2. Awesome for them. Why the fuck would you not just buy forged aftermarket pistons made specifically for this task? Building a 2.4L motor is not rocket science. People have been doing it since I've been on this board... or more than 7 years. Why you would be so stuck on the silly fact of using "EVoooooo pistons" is absolutely beyond me. :dunno: If they were so damn good why have people been yanking them in favor of forged aftermarket setups from day #1 in evo land? And they can't be cheap either... a set of Evo rods is in excess of $400.

:dunno: