I'd boost it up to 24psi. Nothing major.

 

if ur on the stock T25 turbo then i wouldnt go over 14lbs but thats just my recomendation.. if your planning on upgrading soon then u can go 24 lbs and blow the turbo eventually

 

255...no afpr....fuel pressure ^^^^......backfires alot?

leave the boost at STOCK.

or don't and well see you here back in couple of weeks with a thread: BLOWN UP MOTOR...WHAT TO DO NOW?

 

Yeah, go ahead and crank it up a few psi, just don’t go crazy. The stock fuel system can handle about 16 psi in MOST cases. But just play it safe and run about13-14psi like pvwrestler06119 recommended. You are always taking a risk cranking up the BOOST without any way to monitor what’s going on inside your engine. Why are you running a 255 without an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?

 

Get a boost gauge before going 1 lb above stock level.

I'd probably run it at 14 lbs myself and would at least get a k+n with hacked or removed airbox and I'd at least remove the cat convertor too. A logger and egt is highly recomended but if you're not going to be using either I'd play it real conservative on the boost increase (14 lbs max). No matter what you WILL NEED a real boost gauge because the stock gauge IS NOT to be trusted above 12 lbs and you don't want to learn that the hard way like I did.

 

255...no afpr....fuel pressure ^^^^......backfires alot?

leave the boost at STOCK.

or don't and well see you here back in couple of weeks with a thread: BLOWN UP MOTOR...WHAT TO DO NOW?

I
walbro 255lph fuel pump
these are what came with the car.

it doesn't backfire at all. i haven't drivin it much, but it runs rich and that's all. i was thinking maybe i should get a stock fuel pump, but wasn't sure and forgot to also ask that. i know stuff about cars, but not too much, especially turbo cars. I'm just a kid and i bought this car as more of a car i can work on and learn stuff with.

 

Turn it up to 15psi. You'll be ok. After a nice catback, or even a upgrade dp you'll be loving the increase, and at 15psi, you'll be safe. Don't forget regular maintenance (ngk bpr7es plugs, spark plug wires, oil changes). If your car is running fine with the 255 then leave it. If not, get a 190. Some folks can run a 255 alone and not have any problems, and some run rich as hell without a fpr.

 

really depends on how ur parents will react...you could turn it up, something goes wrong that needs to be replaced and use the " i need to get this so my car runs" excuse...or u can just save and save and wait for it to break since it is a dsm it'll eventually happen soon enough=)...heneway be safe and be patient

 

Forget boost. Get an adjustble fpr first and bump the fuel pressure back to stock. Or just go back to stock fuel pump.

Then get a boost gauge 1st!
Then I'd get a logger to make sure everything is okay while turning up the boost.
Then you can run around 14-15psi.

 

Yeah the safest way is going with a logger. A boost gauge IS a complete necessity though and if that's all you're planning on getting I'd definately leave the BCS alone and use it as the failsafe that it's meant to be.

Like I mentioned I'd try and free open the intake and exhaaust a bit for some easier breathing to help offset the pressures of the added boost.

Your t25 is old(er) so pushing 14 lbs vs 11 lbs (stock) will be that much more of a strain on it, it may hold up for a long time but it may not so be prepared for a turbo replacement either way. < used 14b's are cheap and new s16g's are not too bad and both are exceptionally better than t25 >
Btw, synthetic oil is a MUST with turbo cars in case you (or anyone else) have somehow overlooked that fact.

Good luok

 

thanks for some more info, this is really helping me out! i emailed the guy who owened it to chek out about the fuel pump. It does have a newer t25, which i forgot to mention, but i think i'll try to start with a fpr, then guage, logger, and then a boost controller.

 

I would suggest buying a AEM wideband. It is $300 and is almost essential and will keep you in the safe being you can read what the car is doing as far a running rich or lean.

 

I'm not sure a wideband is entirely necessary for him at this point.

iwantdsm, I suggest you get an adjustable fpr, boost gauge, take out the boost control solenoid, catback exhaust (or just get rid of the cat if your low on cash), then boost controller.

 

If it is a daily driver then I would keep it stock but have a in car boot controller so you can bump it up when needed but would not go over 20 psi on a car with over 100000 miles and stock pistons & rods.

 

Im running a 255 with no afpr and it will overrun at idle if i sit long enough but when your moving the motor uses enough fuel that its not a problem. Get a boost gauge then get your mbc and turn it upto 15psi. You might want to get something to tune it with. The maf translator is kinda a piece but it will do the job plus you can vent your bov . Remove your cat and if you feel crazy enough buy one of the ss autochrome o2 housings with an external dump from ebay. They are fairly nice and reliable plus itsounds sweet when your waste gate opens up .

 

Im running a 255 with no afpr and it will overrun at idle if i sit long enough but when your moving the motor uses enough fuel that its not a problem. Get a boost gauge then get your mbc and turn it upto 15psi. You might want to get something to tune it with. The maf translator is kinda a piece but it will do the job plus you can vent your bov . Remove your cat and if you feel crazy enough buy one of the ss autochrome o2 housings with an external dump from ebay. They are fairly nice and reliable plus itsounds sweet when your waste gate opens up .

Even when you are driving you are still running rich you have to much fuel pressure without an afpr. I would steer away from MAFT speaking from experiance it sucks. I wouldnt worry about tunning quite yet. I would deff research a whole hell of a lot before you get into tunning. car freak you are sending this newbie in the wrong direction. You can always do things in your own way but others have proven ways of making safe power. Research for fee mods do those since you are restricted on what you can do. Lastly I wouldnt mod untill you are old enough to make your decisions yourself and not have your parents make them for you.

 

well, i can drive it now (had to get tags and title changed over)! it doesn't run rich anymore, it just took a while of driving and it's great- i stopped a while and made sure it wasn't just that the engine had been running for a while! I'm going to start on the free mods then i think i'll get a boost guage and manual boost controller, and only put it up to 13psi.
i'm using this site as a guide for free mods:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/stage0power.php
and this one as a guide for what to do before the turbo
http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/stage1power.php
(i'll look into an apfr- but its running well and i haven't heard back from the po). I'm hoping by next summer to be able to get a bigger turbo, but am unsure. i already have a 16g install kit.
any more info would be great!

 

o yah, does anyone have any recomendations of cheap exhaust systems that would be good? it had an ebay one that was terrible, so the guy switched a newer stock one in before he sold it to me.

 

If it is a daily driver then I would keep it stock but have a in car boot controller so you can bump it up when needed but would not go over 20 psi on a car with over 100000 miles and stock pistons & rods.

^
That's the WORST advice I've even seen lol. You're telling him to leave the car stock BUT boost to 20 lbs Stock injectors won't handle 20 lbs. t25 is not much good over 15-16 lbs. stock exhaust does not want to see 20 lbs etc etc.

 

nevermind about this post. i'd really like some input on cheap exhuasts though, i don't have a ton of money and my parents aren't going to want me to spend all of it also.

 

If you trully belive your car is running "fine" with a 255 and no afpr then I want to see a log proving it.

 

ok, so how do i check if it has an afpr and a 255? the po just said it had a 255, but wasn't the one to put it in and isn't sure of it having an afpr.

 

ok, so how do i check if it has an afpr and a 255? the po just said it had a 255, but wasn't the one to put it in and isn't sure of it having an afpr.

It's the device on the drivers side of your fuel rail that regulates the cars fuel pressure. It has a vacuum line and a fuel return going into it. If there is an old small one on on the end then its stock. If it has a big shiny one on the rail, your good. If it has a line running to an after market one on the firewall, your good. The rail is on the intake manifold and holds the fuel injectors.

If you have a 255 pump, start your car and you will hear it "whining" under the back seat, with the radio off and stock exhaust, you won't miss it.

The idea is a 255 puts a lot of fuel pressure to the car, and you can't compensate for it. So it runs like ass, no good. Adding a AFPR allows you to move the base pressure down to stock, and still make use of the 255's flow capabilities when needed.

I wouldn't bother changing pumps, just buy a AFPR. Why go back small when your so close to having it done right? Thats arguable though so take it as you will. You could run the 190, and keep the 255, if you ever want to use it just pull it out when you have the AFPR and have at it. $200 for an AFPR, or, eBay your pump, get the 190 and have it only cost a few bucks in the end. Good luck, you'll love your car once you get some $ thrown at it.



(On a side, note, It's refreshing to see somebody come in here, not talk like an idiot, not run his mouth about 1000hp, and people actually answered the "go search you f'in idiot" type questions without even thinking twice)

 

(On a side, note, It's refreshing to see somebody come in here, not talk like an idiot, not run his mouth about 1000hp, and people actually answered the "go search you f'in idiot" type questions without even thinking twice)

Well, it's the Newbie's section. People usually go easy on the "go search" answers because at least they post them in the right section.

 

nevermind about this post. i'd really like some input on cheap exhuasts though, i don't have a ton of money and my parents aren't going to want me to spend all of it also.

Cheapest way to go is keep it stock and drive it very conservatively.


2nd Cheapest way to go:

Boost gauge
testpipe
K+N w/airbox removal
thorough inspect + tune-up
Turn boost up to 14 lbs MAX

< That's after you straighten out that fuel situation tho >


You will be putting money into this car and the more you play the more you pay -- that's a simple fact of DSM life

I put a ton of money into my TSI but I rode that thing like it was an amusement ride and loved every minute of it

I have not put 2 cents into my GS over the past 2 yrs (160,000mi) BUT i drive it very conservative and enjoy it in a way that grandmothers enjoy their cars