First things first this forum is fairly strict about grammar, punctuation and sentence structure. It makes for a more professional and serious environment. So fix that up.

To me it sounds like fuel cut happening prematurely because of boost leaks. Check out www.vfaq.com and make yourself a boost leak tester. It's under the intake section. Sounds like the car just needs some basic maintenance and TLC. Might as well just do the other basics like plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, etc...

 

I don't think its fuel cut, or just fuel cut. He should be able to rev up past 5500rpms in neutral. I'm hitting fuel cut at around 4500, varies between gears, but like I said I can rev up perfectly fine because you wont hit fuel cut by just revving. Check the CAS?? And yeah, do the basic tests, like boost leaks, spark plugs, ect.. Replace the vacuum lines, since you just bought it you have no clue how worn they are. Cap off all of the vacuum nipples you aren't using.

 

Well how would i go about testing the cas? is there a resistance check or just checking for voltage from the pcm. Tryed caping off some of the vacume nipples on the tb today they were all caped when i got it but the caps were cracking so i re did them. no real change also the plugs and wires are new.

 

Its a boost leak.

Do a boost leak test.

Come back after.

 

Ok I'm going to perform one in the morning. But can some one please tell me how to edit my post so that everybody that keeps telling me to type better and the Modirators that keep PMing me from my Anus.

 

You can't edit your posts after 10 minutes.

I vote for boost leaks too. We'll go from there. It doesn't cost more than $5 to build your own.

Post back when you check some more.

 

The same thing happened to my car after i installed new hard upper intercooler pipping and one of my clamps slipped off and underboost it would made a HUGE leak. Whats happening is your car is running so rich because of the lost air that it's cutting out.

 

Right. that makes sence im getting ready to go get the stuff to make a tester now. but what about the fact that the car does the same thing (studders and hesitates) in neutral at about the same rpm also?

 

Don't think it's a boost leak unless we hooked it up wrong. But we tried the soapy water test to and didn't see one. So back to the drawing board i geuss. Now we are going to test the cas.

 

Did you find all the vacuum leaks?

 

Na not yet it just started raining on us so we couldnt track them all down. but everything on the TB is pluged up and all the odvious lines have been fixed. I will try the boost leak test again when it stops.

What is the huge line coming out if the intake piping just after the filter for? it was pluged up when i got it and i dunno what its for.

Also my friend checked all the wires coming to the cam sensor all of them turned out ok but there was 6 ohms on the ground wire is that a little high? and how do i check codes.

 

Na not yet it just started raining on us so we couldnt track them all down. but everything on the TB is pluged up and all the odvious lines have been fixed. I will try the boost leak test again when it stops.

What is the huge line coming out if the intake piping just after the filter for? it was pluged up when i got it and i dunno what its for.

Also my friend checked all the wires coming to the cam sensor all of them turned out ok but there was 6 ohms on the ground wire is that a little high? and how do i check codes.

Are you talking about the intercooler piping comming off the turbo?

You can check codes cheap by using a battery/alternator tester. You can buy them at radioshack for 5 bucks. If you connect them to certain terminals you can see which codes you are throwing. Best 5 bucks I ever spent.

Are you throwing codes? Also, are there any mods done to the car?

 

No not the IC piping. There is 2 vacume ports right after the filter and one of them is pluged into something and the other is bigger and just pluged off.

The car is stock aside of a ballance shaft removal kit when the engine was re-done before i got it. I am fairly sure im not throwing codes seing as how the check engine light is not on but i just wanted to know.

 

No not the IC piping. There is 2 vacume ports right after the filter and one of them is pluged into something and the other is bigger and just pluged off.

The car is stock aside of a ballance shaft removal kit when the engine was re-done before i got it. I am fairly sure im not throwing codes seing as how the check engine light is not on but i just wanted to know.

Just because the check engine light isnt on doesnt mean you arnt throwing codes. however, the ones that dont have the light turn on usually dont have anything to do with how the car is running. Ex- if your speedo is broken you will have a code that does not turn on the light.

Do you have a breather filter on your valve cover?

 

um it has a breather tube atached to it and that is the other line by the big one near the filter.

 

You should just take a picture of it to take out all this guessing..

 

The port in question is for the recirc from the charcoal canister which was removed along with the other emissions vacuum lines and such from the sound of it.

 

ok so i did a leak test and found no leaks. i have all the vac lines fixed so theres no vac leaks. when the engine is cold the thing revs up fine all the way to redline and it pulls fine but the second it gets out of cold start up mode it starts to fall off at 5K and the longer the car is on the less rpm the car can use before it starts to cut out. Eventually it gets to the point that at 3K thats all it can do the car will not rev highte and in gear will just basicly hit a wall and wont go any higher. common some one has to have an idea aside of boost leak cuz that isnt it im 99% sure

 

Any more idea's on what else to do.:wall:

I'm now gonna try a new carmon vortex in it now. And go to Auto Zone and see if they can check for codes.

 

Never mind the guy said he put a new one in it and it did the same thing.

 

Anyone got a working CAS I can buy off them.

 

My car does the same thing, kinda looses it at around 5k, but i can go to redline in nuetral

 

My car was having similar issues. After logging it, it appears my knock sensor is faulty. No CE light either. It was reducing my timing to zero at WOT causing no power at the upper RPM's. Something to look at.

 

ok well changed the tps, cas and another carmen vortex sensor. none of them fixed it. im starting to lean to a ecu i have a 90 ecu and sone one said there was a way i could wire it in to get it to work. any ideas?

 

Not the e.c.u. changed it and the f.p.r.:banana: Now leaning twards coil packs or fuel pump. Help somebody please!!!!!!!