DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
I agree with jp91gsturbo here, a good thing to check is your grounds. I've had at least 2dsm's act funny on me and it was simply a grounding issue.

It's hard to say in your case... You say you checked the alternator and battery and they are good.

Try checking your fuel filter as well. They are supposed to be replaced every 2 years.
 
A fuel filter has nothing to do with cranking power. Its a power issue. If it has a hard time turning the motor over with even a new battery, then your starter is toast, or you have a loss of power to it.

If he was crankning and not getting fuel, then maybe.
 
Although this is a longshot you DO have oil in the car right? It sounds like a strange grounding issue but if you ran low and started to seize the bearings I could definitely see the starter having trouble turning the crank. (as well as the car stumbling and dying which were the initial symptoms too)

Other than that it's got to be a power/ground issue. I doubt the starter itself is at fault because this shouldn't have caused the car to stumble and die. Make sure the ground for the starter is connected to the transmission and not corroded. (one of the starter bolts holds the ground in place) One time after replacing my transmission I forgot to connect this however it didn't prevent the car from turning on just made whiny noises and idled like crap til I turned it off and noticed what was wrong.

I would say try to kick start the car and see if it stays running but if its your oil this would be a VERY BAD idea and just potentially cause more damage.
 
An altenator can also keep the car running to. Bad battery wont hold a charge and usually the car wont start.

I'm sure you've checked your termanles, when they're not tight or just old or coroded they wont have a good connection.
 
I noticed something when i tried to start the car today. The positive cable got a little hot after trying to turn over.
Which could easily be a short. I would trace the largest (and hottest) power wires and see if any of them are broken/corroded. When a wire shorts tons of current will flow through it and cause it to heat up. This is the same principle with a light bulb except the wire is so small it starts glowing from a small amount of current.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I pulled the ecu today. Nothing is a miss there no bad caps. I still can't quite figure out why it won't start. It gets proper voltage from the battery/alternator but when you try to start the car it will try to turn over sometimes and it will just click the other time.
 
If the cable is getting hot you def have a short. When mine had a short the cable got so hot so fast it burned the coating off the cable. I mean literally it was a smoke show. Instead of chasing random possible fixes do this. First make sure you are getting the proper voltage to the ign. then, go from the ignition to the starter and check there is twelve volts there do that with the leads disconnected from the starter and with it connected. If there is a difference here as in the cable does not get hot with it disconnected from the starter but when you reconnect it and try to crank and the cable gets hot then you will know that there is a severe short in the wiring of your starter. At this point you should pull the starter and go get it tested. Also as a precautionary measure you should pull your alt. and have it tested as well this can not hurt only help give you piece of mind that it is not the alt. Good luck and be safe.
 
Try starting the car with jumper cables connected to another car. If it starts, it's not your starter and is your battery or alternator. I had this problem two weeks ago. I had a bad alternator. They're really not hard to take out. Find the time to remove it and have it tested.
 
Yeah especially if it's an Afrtermarket alt because they're known to cause problems on our cars.

The other thing which I mentioned twice is remove the battery cables and clean posts and cables even if they don't look in need of it. And battery voltage can be normal with battery not strong enough to crank engine over.
 
Does it at least make a clicking sound or anything at all? I had this problem with my GST once, and it was horrible. And I almost punched the car after what it really was. There is a wire on the Starter, i think the neg or whatever im no wire guru but its super thin and can literally fall off. Well i dont know if that would kill the car driving but its something to check. its really easy to put back on, and really easy to fall off too.
 
if the voltage drops out when u turn the key on.. its either a bad battery, or something is short to ground.


i would start by pulling the alternator fuse. its the easiest way to disable the alt.

Next, pull the spark plugs out and turn the motor over by hand...just to make sure its not seized up. it sure doesnt sound good. if it turns over easily, proceed with the diagnosis.

next you need to check the starters current draw while trying to crank the motor. To do this you will need an inductive ammeter.. 20 bucks at harbor freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-clamp-on-multimeter-95652.html

if the motor is easy to turn by hand with the plugs out, the starter motor should easily be able to turn it over.

Lastly..i am assuming you are checking batt voltage before starting any of these tests. You should have at least 12.8 volts standing voltage and no less than 11 while cranking.

Voltage drop out only while cranking shows bad battery or bad starter. Both can be bench tested at the auto parts store using a carbon pile tester.
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts