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Cooling with a FMIC

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11K views 31 replies 13 participants last post by  Ripper_XX  
#1 ·
So today I started my car with my newly installed FMIC. Now as it idled it got
up to normal opperating temperature and stayed there for about 10 minutes.
However after I drove around the block one time the temps went sky high. I didn't boost or anything if was more of a make sure everything is working correctly drive. Now I was expecting cooling problems after installing the FMIC, my question is if I get a aluminum radiator and two slim fans, will that solve the cooling problem?

Car is running a evo 3 16g and all aluminum charge piping.
 
#3 ·
From my experience, unless you install / fab up your own ducting. You will never fully cure this problem. In my 1g I have no A/C, a Koyo radiator, and two slimline fans wired up like OEM. With a lot of heat shield etc. And the car still gets warmer than I'd like in town at low speeds.

HOWEVER I have yet to try a shrouded fan setup. My opinion which is only that, is that it would help at lower speeds but possibly hurt at higher speeds. *shrug* So I have yet to try that. But I can tell you when I get back to the states I will just be building some duct work so that can be the end of it.
 
#4 ·
To the OP what is your current setup? Radiator/fans/thermostat temp/coolant mixture/etc.?

I recently installed a FMIC on my 90 GSX. I kept the OEM engine fan, but replaced the AC fan with a Spal unit flowing 1360 cfms. I still have the OEM radiator but run a mixture of 30% coolant, 70% water, and 1 bolttle of water wetter. I've only driven the car 3 times since installing the FMIC and it seemed to control the temp even with the AC on. I've yet to take the car for an extended drive (over 30 minutes) to see how it manages.

I recently encoutered an electrical problem - keep blowing the AC fan fuse. So I need to fix that before I can continue continue to evaluate the cooling system.
 
#5 ·
I don't see how it could be overheated that bad, unless you have a problem with your motor. Do a compression test, just for a piece of mind. I bet the HG is blown, or your thermostat just HAPPENED to go out the same time you installed your intercooler.


I have ONE fan on my Auto 1G, stock radiator, and a BIG intercooler on it, and I have noticed no temperature increase. Granted, I wired the stock fan to run 24/7, but even in Florida heat, in the hottest of the summer in dead-lock traffic, it still runs perfect temp. Some of you guys that overheat bad, gotta have existing problems. That's the only thing I can think of.
 
#8 ·
The stock shrouded fans do a good job at pulling air thru the radiator. I'm assuming you have removed the condenser for the AC so that should improve air flow. Honestly I dont think you should be overheating. I use a Spal fan for the AC, and OEM engine fan with full AC and I don't overheat. Have your cooling system pressure tested you may have trapped air in the cooling system, bad radiator cap, inefficient radiator core, etc..
 
#9 ·
My bet is your HG is the cause. I've run the big Greddy FMIC in Phoenix for almost 10 years without any temp issues at all(running A/C too) with both the stock fan set-up or spals and with either the stock radiator or aluminum. If your HG only has 100mi on it that is 98% the cause.

There is no reason to have to use any special ducting to make it work properly.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Depends on the car and it's setup IMHO. Just because you don't have problems doesn't mean other people who do have blown HG's. In fact I KNOW mine doesn't have a HG issue. I just put a new composite mitsu HG on it and ARP's. And it doesn't use or push a drop of coolant. Yet I am using a 170*F thermostat, Koyo, two fans wired up like oem, no A/C, 80% water 19% anti freeze with a bottle of watter wetter. New OEM cap and I have a turbo blanket and heat shielding in place. Yet my car still goes to 210* + in the Oklahoma summer heat in low speed city traffic/stop and go traffic.

In any weather 85* or less it has no problems, and at highway speeds, it has no problems. It's the low speed that it does. My FMIC is 3.5" thick, that thing kills air flow and then theres a large gap from it to the radiator. So what air is getting to it is at low speed and has PLENTY of routes to take besides going though it. SOOO it makes since that it has a cooling issue at low speed. Whats my point in saying all this? You can't just assume some one has a blown HG off such a small amount of information. There could be many causes to his problem.

BUT, one thing is for sure. Ducting is always a good thing.


Besides that, it sounds like the guy had no problem until he installed the FMIC.....sooo yea thats my bet.
 
#12 ·
I have almost the same setup as you, but except the heatshield/turbo-blanket, and stock radiator w/only one fan, with a 185*(might be higher actually.) thermostat, and my VRSF intercooler is also 3.5" thick, and I still don't overheat. Then again, I don't have foglights, and I took the ducting that sits near the hoodlatch, all completely out, and as I said above I have that one fan running non-stop. So maybe that's the key. I dunno. :dunno:
 
#11 ·
I have the stock thermostat, stock radiator with the stock fans, and I have no cooling issues, even with the ac on. Perhaps as stated above just lucky?
 
#13 ·
Is anyone that is claiming to not be overheating using something other than the stock temp gauge? I run pretty damn hot on 90*+ days and my stock gauge doesnt move from the middle where it always sits once warmed up. If I look at Link however, it shows my temps over 210* and the other day it hit 216* in heavy traffic and again my stock temp gauge was sitting in the middle.
 
#17 ·
Like someone above stated, make a nice ducting, then buy a really nice fan.. The slim fans ,don't really work that well. They are about 12-1300 CFM's on average. Waste of money if you ask me... I had very nice Perma-Cool,High Performance 12" fan, that was rated at 3000CFM... Very efficient. It is around $100, but well worth the money..
If your radiator it isn't clogged you should be fine with the stock one. Changing the thermostat would do nothing to cool your car...

I also had an alum rad. and a heatshield on the turbo and my temps never exceeded 195-200*F even in slowtraffic on a hot day/ readings were via Greddy gauge and AEM EMS..GL.
 
#20 ·
Most of the guys here in PHX have had the best luck with the stock fans. A few of us have switched to others more for clearance issues.

Which IC core are you using? Maybe you've got a core that is way too dense? ETS has a good tech section on IC core design that you might want to look at.

Good luck with the new fans but my bet is you have some other problem. Too many other people have zero cooling problems for you to have it related just to the IC.
 
#23 ·
Temps logged via pocketlogger.


and Jmonet I don't know if that's directed towards me, but I specifically mentioned HG for his problem, not everyones. Don't be a wise-ass.
 
#24 ·
Someone on another forum suggested cleaning the AC condenser (along with ducting/sealing) to try and improve air flow. The thought being that prior to installation of the FMIC, that consenser probably took the brunt of trauma from road debris, etc and probably has bent fins over the course of time. Painstaking job to straighten out all the fins, and hose it out (not with pressure wash, though) but probably worth a shot.
 
#25 · (Edited)
It's not directed just at you. It is more for anyone who just dismisses the posibility of the FMIC causing cooling issues. I have spent alot of time and money to make sure everything is done right and done with quality parts. I still run HOT. I guess overheating isn't the right word.

Besides a few wise ass comments seems to bring out good info in past threads.
 
#27 ·
Well if I'm honest, I probably would be overheating too if I didn't have my one stock fan on 24/7. It stays the perfect temperature at all time with it on, so I assume I'd be running a little hot if it was working normally. I think the big thing is the FMIC that blocks the opening. Have you guys thought of doing that trashy mod Honda owners love to do so much? Spacers on the hood I'm referring to so it sits up a little high near the windshield acting like a cowl-type hood? I wouldn't do it personally, but hey, worth a shot.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Have you guys thought of doing that trashy mod Honda owners love to do so much? Spacers on the hood I'm referring to so it sits up a little high near the windshield acting like a cowl-type hood? I wouldn't do it personally, but hey, worth a shot.
Don't do this. You'll actually be making your engine run hotter. The hood/windshield area is a high pressure zone, and by opening the hood in that location you'll be forcing air into the engine bay the wrong direction. This will in turn cause decreased airflow to the radiator because the airflow through your bay is being disrupted. There was a great thread last year on this topic, let me see if I can find it.

EDIT: Found the thread. Some great, great info in here Be sure to look at posts 8 and 13. http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215649
 
#29 ·


What about opening up the front bumper like this? I know some of you might not like the way it looks but that isnt the point.

As far as being functional how much do you think this would help?


On second thought I do have a spare bumper I could try this on. Maybe I'll make it my project for the weekend since I dont think this heat wave is going away anytime soon.