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Denso Iridiums SUCK!

5.2K views 24 replies 17 participants last post by  SPEEDY  
#1 ·
In the July issue of TURBO magazine, there is an ignition tech article about Denso iridium plugs and other aftermarket ignition equipment. According to their tests they claim that a turbo car fitted with a set of Denso Iridiums, in this case a MR2 turbo and a Skyline R33, gained between 3 and 5WHP on dyno runs. So I figured, I'm due for new plugs, why not? I got a good price from a friend, $11ea. Most places sell a set of 4 at around $65. I gapped them to 0.28in. just like my NGKs and VOILA!! CRAP!! The car idled smooth, sounded ok, however, once the turbo began spool there wasn't much at all. That's right, NO POWER!! I pulled them and checked the gaps, the model number against their web page cross-refference guide. Sure enough, these are the ones for me. I put a new set of NGK BPR7ES in the car, HOLY CRAP! Power and tons of it. My final review is this;

NGK Platinum used from 4/98 - 5/98 no power- damaged core after a month

Denso Iridium used for an hour on 5/27/01 no power CRAP!

NGK BPR6ES Stock plugs good power, but BPR7ES is one range colder.

NGK BPR7ES Still the best power to cost ratio!

I guess the platinum and iridium plugs don't work because of the extremely small electrode design, theres very little surface area for spark.
 
#2 ·
Don't try untested parts. If everyone else runs NGK's..why would u think to try something else? Hehe..I'm not trying to flame, but when you see these ads for $10 Platinum tipped spark plugs, but guys who run 10's, run simply $2 NGK plugs..don't you think they would know what works?
 
#4 ·
The NGK BPR7ES are the best for defending against detonation mostly everybody uses them from what I have seen and read. They are one heat range colder than our stock plugs.
 
#6 ·
SPEEDY said:
The NGK BPR7ES are the best for defending against detonation mostly everybody uses them from what I have seen and read. They are one heat range colder than our stock plugs.
Of course, if you switch to colder plugs when you don't need to, you will lose performance.

One guy in our regional is running over 20psi on a small 16G. Trap speeds of 110mph. He put in the 7's and lost 3mph. Most people switch to the 7s LONG before they need to. Stick with the 6's until you are running some real boost, say 25psi. Heck, stick with the 6's until you notice ignition problems.

-SB
 
#7 ·
DSMu4ia said:
Don't try untested parts. If everyone else runs NGK's..why would u think to try something else? Hehe..I'm not trying to flame, but when you see these ads for $10 Platinum tipped spark plugs, but guys who run 10's, run simply $2 NGK plugs..don't you think they would know what works?
No offense man, but that is kinda stupid if you think about it. How are we ever going to progress if no one ever tries anything new? Just because someone runs 10s with a certain part, doesnt mean they wont run 9s if you replace that part with something better.
 
#8 ·
Everybody's car is different also. There may be two cars with the exact same mods and one of the cars is detonating and the other runs fine with no detonation.
 
#9 ·
I'm a believer in fresh plugs right before race season so I like to stick with good 'ol cheap and reliable NGKs and ACCEL wires. $1.35 each for the plugs and $40 for the wires.
 
#10 ·
No offense man, but that is kinda stupid if you think about it. How are we ever going to progress if no one ever tries anything new? Just because someone runs 10s with a certain part, doesnt mean they wont run 9s if you replace that part with something better. [/B]
Brian's right. A lot of people seem to think that running anything other than a 16g or 20g is stupid because "why running anything else when there are guys running 11's on 16G's"
Well, that's great and the 16g is a great turbo, but how do you know they won't run faster with something else? There have been a few posts also in regards to 2.5 vs 3" exhausts, and people will reply with "well there are guys running 11's on 2.5" so you should be fine to that power level."
Well, if they can run 11.8 on a 2.5" then maybe if they switch to 3" they will run 11.7? Unless there's back to back testing that is not a good argument that a certain mod will hold or make more than enough power.
I remember when i was on the SE-R list everyone would buy the same mods basically. Those guys for the most part have less $ than DSM or honda guys, so they only want to use proven parts. That's why there are only a handful of 10 second SE-Rs. No one is willing to be "innovative" and therefore no one will break any barriers and new companies will have a hard time selling their products even if they are superior.

I'm not saying that's the case with these plugs, but I was just replying to DSMu4ias comment. I will agree, however, that if you are on a budget you're better off using proven parts to get to a power goal than trying new things because you don't want to have wasted any money on taking chances/experimenting.

On another note, I've noticed that in the DSM world it seems that there are less dyno charts that show before/after gains of parts. People will tell me yeah you will gain xx hp after you get this part yet I have never seen a dyno chart to prove that. I realize it's because of the large AWD population making it hard to get to a 4 wheel dyno, but there are more FWDs than AWDs so I'd like to see some dyno charts before people tell me "so and so turbo is better than that turbo." Timeslips are a good way to find out power gains, i.e. trap speed, but there are other variables in dragging that could have you go faster with an inferior mod.

BTW, you shouldn't switch to a colder plug if youre running within ~50-75hp of stock (depending on the car). Lots of people ive seen replace their bpr7es' a lot because they fowl up, yet that doesn't seem to give them a clue.
 
#11 ·
Iridium update

As of today my car only uses 7ES's. I do see what you guys mean about running a colder plug to soon, my 7ES's do foul easier than 6's because they less frequently reach the proper "cleaning temperature" (only 16psi on the street). Subsequently, I did more research into the Densos and found that the DSM shop that I bought them from (can' say which, don't want any fingerpointing) hasn't been able to get normal operation from their cars with these plugs. Denso says that they are infact the correct plug model to use and feel that my car has other problems that could be the cause of poor performance with their plugs. So for now, a big F.U. goes out to Denso.
 
#12 ·
You guys missed my point...

I was simply stating per spark plugs. I don't know how you both brought up other parts. I'd be the first one to try new parts..provided that it wasn't from someone I've never heard of. I've taken risks on several parts that I have bought..but honestly..I've never heard of anyone running NGK's with a failure. Damn near everyone who tries a different spark plug has seen failure or decreased performance.
 
#13 ·
DSMu4ia said:
You guys missed my point...

I was simply stating per spark plugs. I don't know how you both brought up other parts. I'd be the first one to try new parts..provided that it wasn't from someone I've never heard of. I've taken risks on several parts that I have bought..but honestly..I've never heard of anyone running NGK's with a failure. Damn near everyone who tries a different spark plug has seen failure or decreased performance.
Well you can still try something new even if it is just spark plugs. I will agree that maybe it's not worth it, especially when iridiums cost so much, but there's nothing wrong in trying them out unless a lot of other people say they are shitty. If that's the case with these iridium's then yeah, don't bother buying them when you could just get the tried and tested NGKs. It's just that some cars may run well with the same plugs another car runs like shit with. Another example of this is the Bosch plat +4 (for NA cars, not turbo DSMs).
I wasn't pointing a finger at you as an example, DSMu4ia, I was just commenting that in general a lot of people seem to look down at trying new things, and take personal offense to people using anything other than the "almighty" mitsubishi turbos as an example.
 
#14 ·
Change Spark Plugs Often

Another note: I was having "phantom knock" and "whooshing air" problems. (step on the accelerator, and the car goes nowhere)
These problems were solved with new plugs. The thing was, my plugs were only 9000 miles old (NGK BPR6ES, gapped .028")
As it turns out, many people change their plugs with every oil change, and I think I will too.

My car has only run poorly twice in it's 80k mile life. BOTH TIMES these problems were fixed with new, properly gapped plugs. From now on, my plugs are getting change with the oil.

The damn plugs cost less than the Mobil One.

-SB
 
#15 ·
Was your lack of power problem only at part throttle? Sometimes if I'm accelerating at part throttle, the boost will be building but the car just won't be really accelerating, and i'll have to shift and gun it or take my foot off and gun it. The car runs alright mostly on WOT, but part throttle is where the problem lies. THere is/was a big thread on this earlier, but some people believe it to be the cam sensor placement, among other theories.
It's about time to change my plugs anyway, and the strange no-name brand plug wires that came with the car might be replaced with magnecores if I can convince myself they are worth my hard earned $80
 
#17 ·
I usually change my plugs every oil change, too. $6.50 for a fresh set of NGK's is cheap enough for the benefits of better throttle response and top-end...I get the part-throttle hesitation, too, and the new plugs always take care of it.

I ran the BPR7ES's the last time I went to the track, and although I was very happy with their performance, my idle was slightly rougher, and they totally fouled within 500 miles. I'm still running them right now, but I'm going to swap them out with the BPR6ES's on Thursday night (going racing on Friday). I don't think that it hurts anything to run the colder plugs (and it's cheap enough), but be prepared to switch back if they begin to foul.

SPOOM
92 TSi fwd
 
#19 ·
Red97GST said:
replaced with magnecores if I can convince myself they are worth my hard earned $80
Don't waste your time. I've had a couple sets of magnecores. I could never get rid of these "phantom" misses and odd ignition cutouts. I bought new sets of wires and BPR6ES plugs twice. I sent the old wires to magnecor and they said nothing was wrong.

Then I bought a set of NGKs from RRE for $40 and the problem magically disappeared, along with my sanity.
That was about two years ago.

You should only be running BPR7ES plugs AT THE TRACK. Yes more boost and power will cause a higher operating temp AT WOT. Not when you are cruising, not on your way to work, not on the way to the grocery store. During cruising, part throtle, and short WOT runs the combustion chamber temps aren't high enough to cause pre-ignition in most cases.
 
#20 ·
you might try a different gap on those plugs too. We use the BPR7ES plugs in the Polk Performance drag car, but the gap is only .025". The Iridiums big benefit is that the electrode can withstand much higher temps and thus is less of a hotspot. So basically they would keep you from having preignition. They may need to be gapped smaller in your car. At least that's what it sounds like to me. Hell, at $11/ea I'd sure as hell try it b4 I gave up on them! :)

good luck and let us know if you DO have any luck with them. If not, I'll take them off your hands. :)
 
#21 ·
I used the 7es plugs on my 99 eclipse. The car had trouble starting,some hesitation,etc. put the stock 6es plugs back in much better, no need to go with 7es plugs for most folks,i stick with what works.
 
#25 ·
Willy said:
Damn, I just bought a set of Densos. Well, I guess I will try it and find out myself.
Definately let us know how they do in your car, and what gap you have them at. Good luck!!