[1QuickChic]

ok i just got my car back together, and went to crank it for the first time, following martins post on how too break the engine in, its all brand new

heres the spec on the engine
je 9:0.1 pistons
crower rods, free floated
crower valve springs
crower titanium retainers
mitsu metal head gasket
arp head studs, main, and rod studs
head studs torqued to 80 ft lbs,
no balance shafts
ported 2g mani
scm34 turbo
fic 650cc injectors
promed ecm
afc all set to - 10 across the board
msd dis2
fidanza flywheel
2g maf
apexi intake

i know you are spose to break the engine in a stock as posible and this is about as stock as posible i can get

here is the deal
i primed the engie (i.e) cranking it a few times to oil the engine up
than proceded to start it, it was real hard to get started but it did fire up, it runs rough, i held it at 3k for 10 min than varied it between 1k and 3k for another 10
car is still running rough but now strats easier, but it is smoking like a freight train!
is this normal ?
the smoke is white and some blue, you can tell its running way rich
also i am using an automet water temp and oil pressure guages to watch everything, the oil pressure is great but the water temp is at 250, i dont know if its becaus ei am using the stock temp senser or if that make sa difference, i dont see why it would but i am asuming they are different, the temp went sky high in the first 5 minutes btw
i havent did the break in 15 30 to redline run yet, because i am a lil woried is the engin is ok or if soemthing may be wrong, also there is an oil leak i need to fix, i am going to run a compression test to see what it tells and will post it in a few
all opinions, suggestions, and prayers would be greatly apreciated

 

[1QuickChic]

ok here is the compression results,

180-182-180-180
i think the says the head gasket is fine
but my question is still in the temps
and the smoke, something else i notice is the tip in my exhaust is covered in oil is this normal too?

 

[shaolinrob]

Sometimes a new motor will smoke a while if the engine still had assembly lube in it when it was started. Usually it ceases and desists after 15 - 20 minutes, though.
As far as the coolant temp goes, make sure the system is pressurized well (ie, no small leaks anywhere), and check to see if the thermostat is working. I have no idea if the stock temp. sensor would make a difference or not.

 

[toyotech360]

what is your base timing at?

 

[Taboo]

Check the output of the temp sensors. At 176*F, the sensor for the gauge should have between 264 and 328 ohms resistance and the sensor for the ECU 0.3 - 0.9 volts. See what the stock gauge says (since the Autometer gauge may be calibrated differently) . Does the thermostat open?
The reason why the engine smokes and you see oil in the exhaust is the rings not beign fully seated yet (+ you're burning all the assembly lube). That's normal.
Pressurize the intake, fix any leaks, let it run and set the timing. I'd suggest to slightly retard it (to some 3 degrees BTDC) just to be on the safe side with the 9:1 pistons. Don't worry about the idle (if you have no vacuum leaks), just center the ISC servo (by grounding the #10 pin on the diagnostic conector and turning the key on) and the idle will settle down in 1 or 2 days. Adjust the TPS and TB cable as well. If everything looks OK and nothing's leaking, change the oil and oil filter (in case it's clogged with the assembly lube from the oil pump) and go run it. Drive just like you normally would ('til you get to the "break-in location"), with no big torturing or babying it, just give it occassionally some throttle while steadily increasing the load, then let off and let the engine cool while coasting (= don't let the engine run at the same RPM and load for too long. It's always better to take some side streets than some freeway). Once you get to the break-in location, start with some 60% throttle runs, then 80% and finally 100% while letting the car coast between the runs. Also, when doing the runs increase their duration with the load increase. And, of course, keep your eyes on the gauges. If you want to play it really safe, (temporarily) by-pass the fan relay so the fan is on all the time. Good luck.

 

[1QuickChic]

i think it is ok, i went out and did 5 break in runs it still smoke a lil but it is getting better, it still smells like it is running rich and it has a lot of vibration, until further into the rpm, i think thats just the balance shafts not being there, i cahanged the oil and there was a lot of lube in it so......., i think its goin to be ok, i need to fix its problems it has and then i will complete the break in,

martin, will it be ok to let it set till i fix the problems
or should i just get right out and do the break in?

i need to replace the isc, and a couple sensors, also i need a new knock sensor(i think),my afc isnt picking up any knock

btw, on the runs i did do, let me tell you guys this thing hauls ass, i mean omg
and it is just at 13 psi of boost

thanks
guys

 

[1QuickChic]

btw i dont have any stock guages any more i modified the dash cluster

 

[Taboo]

let me tell you guys this thing hauls ass, i mean omg
and it is just at 13 psi of boost

She likes it...

Sure, you can let it sit as long as you want - 'til you fix the sensors. Check the knock sensor on the logger. Detecting knock on the S-AFC is basically useless since it doesn't have the same frequency filter (if it actually has any) as the ECU and can't distinquish between real knock and other noise the knock sensor picks up. See what your trims are, if the O2 sensor cycles and do some basic tuning. On the next runs, check how many Hz you pull on the 2G MAS at WOT (should be around 2000 Hz), but if it's too low and you'd need to go even lower on the S-AFC in order to lean the AFR out, you'd be better off with AFPR since running too much timing (as result of the low Karman readings) with the high compression pistons may not be the best thing (since the tuning window with the 9:1 compression is fairly narrow). Also, confirm the coolant temperature with the logger. Then just keep an eye on the gauges and leaks for the first 1000 miles (since that where most assembly errors reveal themselves). The engine will smoke a bit for the first few miles - 'til everything beds and seats, but it'll go eventually away. Now, let's see the modified instrument cluster...

 

[1QuickChic]

here is the sad thing, i dont got a logger, i know i know, all this shit and i didnt buy a logger, btw i have regulater, and a walbro on the car too, i will go check those reading and tell ya what i got and as soon as i can find a place to host acouple images, i will show ya my custom guages

 

[wys100]

prolly stucked pvc.

 

[1QuickChic]

well found out somethin, my fpr was stuck at 80 psi i went and got the items i needed for the repairs, minus the isc, i got it to finally idle after i set the afc to -30 the hz value at idle was at around 200; it was fluctuating
i am gonna change the oil install a new temp sensor, and the new fpr i just got and set it at 43 psi, than proceed to try and break it in to get the smoke to stop , i watch everything and post back in a few, thanks guys for all the help

and btw i dont have a pcv valve

 

[diambo4life]

well found out somethin, my fpr was stuck at 80 psi i went and got the items i needed for the repairs, minus the isc, i got it to finally idle after i set the afc to -30 the hz value at idle was at around 200; it was fluctuating
i am gonna change the oil install a new temp sensor, and the new fpr i just got and set it at 43 psi, than proceed to try and break it in to get the smoke to stop , i watch everything and post back in a few, thanks guys for all the help

and btw i dont have a pcv valve

That's very high fuel pressure! Set it between 38-43psi (with vacuum off) and go from there. I am not sure with a 2G MAS what your Hz values should be at but checking the fuel trims would have helped alot to see where your fuel setting is currently. How could you forget to buy a logger with all those goodies?? Anyway , the smoke should finally go away and keep replacing the sensors in the meanwhile and tightening up the loose ends.

Good luck.

 

[1QuickChic]

martin, here is a link to the pic of my guages sorry its not too god when i get better i will let ya see

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/turismo_type_r/detail?.dir=/a35a&.dnm=da6d.jpg

oh and the oil leak wasa busted oil filter housing, where the pressure senser goes

 

[Taboo]

Looks pretty good :rockon: . Now, let's see a picture of you (I've been curious about the 34- 24- 36 w/ no mods specs on a chick that works on her own car for quite some time now :rudolph: :rudolph: :rudolph: ).

 

[dsmdiggler]

Looks pretty good :rockon: . Now, let's see a picture of you (I've been curious about the 34- 24- 36 w/ no mods specs on a chick that works on her own car for quite some time now :rudolph: :rudolph: :rudolph: ).

Taboo.. Hitting on a girl over the internet?

INTERNET COCKBLOCK!

 

[shaolinrob]

Hey, just because he's calling her out doesn't mean he's hitting on her

 

[1QuickChic]

i thought i posted a pic before but , oh well

here ya go martin

http://profiles.yahoo.com/Turismo_Type_R


and have a :tree:

lol

 

[shaolinrob]

erm... I think you pass the test there :hail:

 

[diambo4life]

Looks pretty good :rockon: . Now, let's see a picture of you (I've been curious about the 34- 24- 36 w/ no mods specs on a chick that works on her own car for quite some time now :rudolph: :rudolph: :rudolph: ).

Don't you already have a girlfriend?




Those gauges look good. About the busted oil filter housing, I would try and get one from the junkyard if in good condition. They are kinda expensive from the dealer.

 

[Taboo]

here ya go martin

http://profiles.yahoo.com/Turismo_Type_R

Looking really good, nothing to mod :rockon: . Thanks!

Taboo.. Hitting on a girl over the internet?

Don't you already have a girlfriend?

Give me a break. I just wanted to see "the woman behind the machine", so to speak . That's all .