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Engine Revving When Clutch Is In

4.3K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  TalonTuner69  
#1 ·
I just bought a 93 Talon TSI AWD 2.0L DOHC (manual) and I am new to the turbo and DSM scene. When I start the car it starts idling high and then lowers and fluxuates between 1250 and 1600 rpms raising steadily, then dropping quickly back down to 1250 rpms. Occasionally on the initial start up, it will idle around 2000 rpms and slowly decrease until the engine shuts off. The other strange thing about it is when I'm driving and I push the clutch in to shift gears, the engine will rev up to 3500 rpms and then drop back down to normal once it's back in another gear. I talked to the guy I bought it from (who rebuilt it and did a REALLY crappy job) and he said that he left a wire by the throttle disconnected. I looked all around the TB and couldn't find what he was talking about. Can anyone help??
 
#2 · (Edited)
Either you have a vacumm leak of some sort or a your TB butterfly is cracked open at idle, Very common . Check the tension of the throttle body's cable to the butterfly, it should have literally no tension.
OR your idle is not set correctly, there is DIY's everywhere on how to set it right using a ground cable to a connector etc etc.
RESET the ECU after you find either one of the above to reset fuel trims.
Happy DSM'ING.
 
#4 ·
and he said that he left a wire by the throttle disconnected. I looked all around the TB and couldn't find what he was talking about. Can anyone help??
Only wires that go the the TB are the ones to the Idle Speed Control motor and a single wire that goes to a switch right by the connection of the throttle cable and elbow (I think the switch has something to do with the AC when the car is idled?).

If you have already done a boost leak test, and don't have leaks in your system, your symptoms sound common to idle surge problem DSM cars have when the idle speed control motor craps out.

I have an N/A 4g67 and I went through everything even replacing an intake manifold gasket which was crimped and causing a vacuum leak. I was still having surge issues until I replaced the idle speed control motor with one that worked. Great site that helped me was vfaq.com.

This is a common problem a lot of people post, as these cars are getting older, this is common for this to happen. Use the search function on this site. First search "boost leak test" and fix those problems first. Next search "idle surge." Those topics have been covered numerous times and will give you a great place to start.
 
#10 ·
Unplug your tps and see if it stops. My car was doing that and when I unplugged the tps it stopped. I bought a new tps and now it idles perfect. You could also check yours BISS screw for the high idle if it doesn't stop. I was told to turn it all the way in until it stops then turn it out two and a half turns and that's the spot it is supposed to be.
 
#13 ·
Wouldn't it just make the idle either really high or really low instead of fluxuating like mines doing?
It will idle higher with the BISS missing. And could casue slight idle surge as the computer is constantly trying to adjust the fuel map to compensate for any extra air getting into the engine.

The first thing you must do is a boost leak/vacuum leak test on your car before attempting to diagnose any idle problems. A proper test can be found at http://www.vfaq.com. Any leaks in your system or air entering/leaving the system that the MAF isn't accounting for will cause idle problems. This is the easiest and typically least expensive thing to do and fix.

Also after you BISS is fixed (and you went through the steps of properly adjusting your BISS, also found on http://www.vfaq.com) and you still notice a problem. Back track your ISC installiation. There is an O-Ring that people forget about all the time that sits between the ISC and FIAV. Look here for pictures http://www.dsmisc.com/dsmweb-dw/pictures.html . It is something that can be easily overlooked when you are changing out ISC motors.

If you checked and double checked those all correctly, you should be ok. If you still have idle issues, you might have other mechanical problems wrong with your car not associated with intake/throttle body related.

I hope this clears some things up for you.
 
#16 ·
Thanks, yea I'm pretty sure we were. The veterans on this site get tired of answering this same question all the time, so I try to jump in where I can. If I didn't have help from other people before, I don't know if I would've ever figured it out.

We just do what we can, and try to help the next person out. Another DSM on the road makes this world a better place (for mechanics haha).
 
#17 ·
#20 ·
I should also add in that you should address the IAC very soon, as a bad IAC can cause one of the drivers in the ECU to burn out.