[jordan080303]

Thanks flexnuts, you've been very helpful.

 

[fatalshock]

Don't overload your brain. You now know what materials you need and in what order to apply them. Lot's of people are afraid of bodywork, but the truth is that it's very simple. If there's a hole...fill it. Then just add or subtract materials until it's right. It's like sculpting with clay, except you don't have to make something from nothing...you're fixing an existing panel, so you know what it should look like and what shape you need.

As for accessing that panel, just remove the big plastic side panel and poke around until you see where the hole is. Tsidude was right in the fact that there will be interior bracing and such near it which won't make it impossible, but you will need to try to get your hand in a pretty tight spot. I'd say pull the panel off now and try to locate it. Even if you're not going to do the repair for a little while, I'd say you'd want to try to get some rust inhibiting spray paint on it now so the hole doesn't grow any more.

 

[jordan080303]

Alright, sounds great. I think I will get to it this weekend and "poke around" a bit. I will let you guys know how things so and if I need more help.

 

[fatalshock]

Sorry, double post..

 

[TSidude]

When applying bondo, (when you get to this point) you should sand/grind down the panel with 36 grit paper, not 80. The thing about body filler (bondo) is it needs something serious to hang on to. Think of it as a tooth. 80 grit is too fine. Also a rule when it comes to selecting sand paper grit, you should never skip more than a 100 grit...If you do, you will see major scratches later. The other thing is, you don't want to sand it too fine, The putty, primer, basecoat, clear, will all need something good to adhere too..

 

[flexnuts02]

sand/grind down the panel with 36 grit paper, not 80. 80 grit is too fine.

Yeah, but for a noob, he will most likely go too far with 36, and then not have enough material to go with finer grit and take out scratches. If you use 80 after 15 minutes, you should be fine and will have shallower scratches to work out.

But yes, I even use 36 or a cheese grater since I know how far to take it before adding grit. You do not want big scratches at the end but putty will fill any little imperfections after sanding the mud.

 

[jordan080303]

Thanks for the tips....

 

[jeepman1998]

If that doesn't work out for you I can tig weld a piece in. If possible get a pic of it so I can see exactly what needs to be cut out. I live near summit racing. But wait till it is a little warmer out.

pm me.

 

[jordan080303]

Alright, well I'll take a pic of it in a few weeks when I get to it and rip out the interior panel. Maybe you could weld if I don't think I'll be able to fix it. We'll see, thanks for the tip...

 

[jeepman1998]

No problem, I know welding in a piece is always the better route. To be honest it is really easy also. Make shure you cut out all the rust and fix the problem that started it in the first place or you will just end up having the same problem later.

 

[jordantalon95]

When I was fixing my civic rust holes I just cleared all the rust out.

Welded in a piece of sheet metal that I got for free from work.

Just loaded the shit out of it with body filler. Not the fiber glass stuff thats just a mess.

Then i used an Angle Grinder and grinded it down after it dried.

Then smoothed it out with sandpaper and a flat stone beside it.

Not really sure about the painting. I got the car painted by someone else.