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FP3065 turbo

76K views 225 replies 71 participants last post by  AL92  
#1 · (Edited)
I got her close enough to post some info now.
No dyno and no track MPH yet, just some info about it, my install, how she's running, quality, etc.

I just have to start off and say that this fucking turbo rocks people. No bs and no hype here. I had another "large" turbo on my car before so my feeling for the comparison is there.

This is the full ball-bearing Garrett Ballistic Concepts GT-30 CHRA mated to the new, fully custom designed and tested, investment cast in 310 SS turbine housing that is only available at
Forced Performance.

Install was easy and straight forward as my set-up was already custom so changing some more things wasn't a problem. I'm using the stock water line on the "front" of the turbo and a barbed fitting to rubber line on the backside because that is what I had before. FP has a custom made oil return tube that is nice and bolts up with no hassle. I'm using a K&N filtered oil feed line coming from the stock 1G location at the head. The new FP custom turbine housing brings the turbo off of the water pipe so you shouldn't have to put a huge dent in it. My water pipe was already dented a bit from a previous turbo install so it easily cleared it. This turbo weighs less than one with a Mitsu turbine housing and it is immediately noticeable. The V-band clamps FP integrated into this turbo are sweet. It simplifies things, eliminates some gaskets, bolts and bs for a clean look and easy wrenching.

As of right now, the FP3065 turbo package includes a FP3065 turbocharger with gaskets, an FP cast aluminum intake pipe (which is sweet looking and works!) with silicone connectors, a turbine discharge v-band clamp and weld flange and the oil supply and drain lines for $1730. This price may change in the future so call them and ask what the going rate is when you buy yours.

FP has always had great customer service, shipping was quick and everything I ordered was there. Been that way at least three times for me when I ordered stuff.

Before I get into my initial results on the street I should say that my current set-up includes some mods that are probably helping my results some, by design ;) but your specific results may vary here.
I think the mods worth mentioning here are a Magnus Motorsports sheetmetal intake manifold, an Indy Race Core fmic, short routed custom 2.5" fmic piping, the 3" GM MAF w/MAFT, a FP cast aluminum intake pipe, custom 3" SS O2 housing, 40mm Tial external wastegate routed back into the exhaust, a custom 3" dp, ported EVOIII exh mani, HKS 264/264 cams.
Now to be fair I have a stock six-bolt shortblock. Stock 1g big rods, 7.8:1 pistons and a stock head. :)

At this point I'm pushing 22 psi on the street, (in Phoenix at night, hehe,) on 91 octane pump gas. I'm getting 24 degrees of timing at the top of third gear at the stock rev limiter (well tuned up top) with knock counts about 3-7.
As per the comparison with my previous set-up which I drove everyday at 25 psi for awhile. This is hands down, a faster car now. This turbo has extremely quick transient response after a shift, and responds VERY WELL to the third gear drop on the freeway at 65 mph. :D Boost response is instant, it is at 15 psi before you can even look at the fucking boost gauge and it's rising fast as the car just hooks, squats and throws you into the seat.

Next I'm rolling at 40 mph in third gear and the vacuum is about 14 in Hg, drop to second and nail her WOT, the tach goes to 5k rpm and the boost gauge is at 15 psi when I look at it, glance back to the tach and she's now at 5500 rpm. That fast people. 15 psi with this turbo is not chump change either. She is moving. The scary thing is that she is just getting started too.

Cruising in fifth gear at 65 mph, nail her WOT. No surge, no flat spot, just instant boost. A little slower here, but I just wanted to see if she would surge. The answer is no.

So far, this turbo does not act like an off/on switch. Boost response is quick, smooth and efficient. Once earlier tonight I went a bit too lean for my liking on pump gas (at 22 psi) and the knock counts went up to about 20 on one run. At that point I can honestly tell you that the car was just screaming fast. Faster than at any time previously ever, even on VP C16 race fuel at Bandimere Speedway. You'll get no bs or predictions from me, or talk of magical ET's, but for pump gas and just starting to really tune this turbo/set-up, I'm impressed. It has my complete attention and utter respect.

I forgot what gear scenario this was, so I'll have to reverify it before I post it, but she pegs 22 psi by 4500 rpm. I hit 22 psi, move my eyes to the tach and there's 4500 rpm. No shit, no bs, no hype and a stock 2L 4G63 shortblock with a few supporting mods in Deer Valley. IT'S ALL GOOD! :D

Having spent money on another turbo once already and now having this set-up. I'd say this to those chasing a number or posting the "I want 400-500 hp" posts...

Do it once, do it right and do it with this turbo. You will not be sorry. Forced Performance, accept no substitutes.

This turbo has ran nines at the track and is race proven already. It seems expensive and too large for most dsm'rs tastes and does cost a little more than some other options, but I'll tell you that this turbo is decent for the street as well. I'll bet if you set this bad boy up for 18-20 psi daily on the street/pump gas and then saved the rest for the track, you'd never even think about or need another turbo.

I haven't really focused on low boost or boost creep issues yet, but my first runs were at 13-14 psi rock solid to redline. No creep.

I'll verify the one 22 psi/rpm scenario asap and see how reasonably low it can go on boost and what rpm it hits that at too. More updates as I get them and pics soon.

The bar has been raised.
 
#4 ·
Vern,

For somebody who has a GS-T, automatic (I know, I'm sorry), and stock internals, would this be a smart move to buy this turbo?

I guess it might be hard to judge and I know all cars are different, but I'm looking into a new turbo setup, going back and forth from the FP 30 series and the AGP Full Garrett Kits.

Could you give me some feedback please?

Thanks

By the way, awesome review. Makes me want to buy it even more.

Erik
 
#5 ·
Pic

Attached here is a pic of the turbo installed.

In this pic you can kind of see how the Tial 40 mm ex wg sits with the FP 3065, the FP cast intake pipe, my LIC pipe routing, etc.
You can also see the K&N filtered oil feed line that I picked up from AGP, my oil feed line is a unique combination of the FP oil feed line that is supplied and the AGP line, hehe.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
99GS-T Boost said:
For somebody who has a GS-T, automatic (I know, I'm sorry), and stock internals, would this be a smart move to buy this turbo?

I guess it might be hard to judge and I know all cars are different, but I'm looking into a new turbo setup, going back and forth from the FP 30 series and the AGP Full Garrett Kits.

Could you give me some feedback please?
Thanks Erik.
There's only one gray area that I cannot compare here. The auto tranny area in the dsm's. I have a pretty good feeling that when she spooled she'd never stop until you were at the end of the run. That's a good thing, but I really can't speak for the auto crowd, maybe someone will answer this for you.

I also have no idea how much hp our auto trans' are good for, even beefed up.

As far as the stock internals go, the stock internals on a 6-bolt 1g have seen some decent 500+ hp to the wheels runs. The 2g pistons have done that as well, the thinner 2g rods aren't far behind that either. The key is avoiding detonation. On that part of your post I don't see a problem with anyone with stock internals getting this turbo. This turbo can help produce more power than the stock internals can handle obviously, so you have to plan for that up front. If you buy any very large turbo from any vendor you could have issues, but I believe that the real key is understanding that detonation with any turbo can kill internals. It's all about tuning and your awareness of WTF is going on.

So you could buy this turbo and then get the rest of the stuff as you go. I'm not sure that I would do that, but it could be done if you're smart about it.
My mod list is pretty extensive and I still lack enough fuel and the forged internals to really push this turbo to it's limits.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Hehe, that would be nice.

But, I'm a single dad now and I just moved to another state. That was expensive and I'm starting my new job almost two weeks later than was anticipated. So it's tight. :(

Once I get everything financial like back to "normal" for me and it cools down here just a little bit I will get her to the track. I promise you that. By that time I'll have her tuned a little better and ready for race fuel.

Just a little hype here now. ;) On Sat night I took a longtime buddy of mine for a tuning flight, hehe. He was watching the PocketLogger for me and he don't know jack about dsms. :D He got out of the car edumacated about our little 4G63 and dsms in general. We used to race v8 chevys down Central Ave in Phx and out at Jomax Rd in Deer Valley back in the day together. He was impressed and after we got back, his exact words as we shut the garage door were, "Damn bro, that's fast."

She's also running hotter down here now, so I need another electric cooling fan on the driver's side now.
 
#13 ·
excellent review, im truly amazed with this turbo and what its doing for you guys that are running it. I think once i see some dyno sheets and all the essential things I might actually consider getting this insted of the t3/4 i was looking at. Btw hows the tunning going?? and are you using a 2g mas?? also in the heat down there have you considerd running alcohol injection ??
 
#14 ·
Thanx.
Tuning is coming along good, a bit slower than what I usually do, but that's only because I have a daily driver beater Celica GT (lol) nowdays.

No on the 2g mas. I'm using a 3" GM MAF in the UIC pipe with the Translator.

No on the alcohol injection or anything like that ever going on the car. I kind of like it simple; like girls in shorts and heels ya know, not all that other bs. ;)
 
#17 ·
High oil pressure

I wish I could afford one of those bad boys. Nice review and turbo man!

That is true for about any turbo it is just a good idea to get that style of feedline for our cars. I have it off my head now and I am also on my second set of seals since I ran my feedline off my oil filter housing. Now no more problems or blue puffs of smoke. I am on the ol 14b.
 
#18 ·
High oil pressure can cause oil leakage from any turbocharger. The main reason you want less oil supply to these GT CHRA is because they are ball bearing.

Ball bearings require only a light mist of oil for lubrication while floating journal bearings have to do just what their name says, float on a pressurized bed of oil.

It is incorrect however to indicate that high oil pressure will damage or "blow" out a turbo seal. No amount of oil pressure can damage a turbo seal.

The term "blown seal" is overused to describe a turbo with oil coming out of it. The seal can't actually become damaged until the shaft has enough freeplay to start rubbing the housings, and that only occurs after a bearing failure.

To the guy that said he wished he could afford one, check out or new pricing, these babies are more than a few hundred dollars less expensive than they were a week ago!
 
#19 ·
Finally got a second cooling fan on the car and she's back in action. :D

Retest of the initial spool-up info that I posted earlier, finally.

21 psi by 4500 rpm confirmed today, repeatedly. This is strictly in 4th gear, starting off while cruising (under vacuum) at 3500 rpm. Hit WOT, 21 psi by 4500 rpm, with no downshift, no surge and no knock in 108 degree Phoenix heat.

The no knock confirmed that I'm still a little richer than I'd like in that mid adjustment zone on the MAFT. So there is potentially an improvement to be had on that 21 psi by 4500 rpm. ;)

I'll have more frequent updates and "street" details in this thread now. So pay attention! :p
 
#20 ·
I wish...

Forcedperf: I beg to differ on oil pressure not affecting your turbo seals the reason I replaced the turbine side seal twice was due to that very fact. I ran it off the oil filter housing at first. Then I thought my turbo was shot. So I ordered a bearing kit. It didn't have any blue smoke after stop lights for the first day or so then it came back. I got a oil feedline off the head and it didn't fix the problem still smoke so I asked around about the problem and they said after you run the turbo with high oil pressure for and extended time it will "blow" out the seal therefore causing it to smoke again. I got another kit and sure as shit it fixed the problem and haven't had a problem since. I'm not trying to be a dick and test you knowledge just telling my story man....

Yeah man, I do mean "I wish I could afford one right now...";) I am engaged, nuff said maybe in the near future who knows! But don't think I haven't been keeping an eye on the prices and new developements that keep coming out! ;)

Late
-Matt Weber
 
#21 ·
boosstboy said:
has anybody bought one of these, and if so how is the spoolup or lag comparable.
Let's stay on topic in this thread. There are numerous threads on the S-series turbos (yes I know search isn't working right now).
 
#22 ·
Van said:

I'll have more frequent updates and "street" details in this thread now. So pay attention! :p
I'm really interested in your opinion of this turbo on the street. Considering you have the stock low-compression 1G pistons, 264 cams, and a big Magnus intake manifold. It almost seems like a worst-case scenario as far as streetability goes.

Is it easy to keep spooled up between shifts, or do you have to be a John Force in order to shift fast enough?

On the oil feed issue: I thought Forced Performance sold a special feed line with these ball bearing turbos that includes a filter and a restrictor plate that prevents too much oil from getting in????
 
#24 ·
I think it's more of a best case scenario.
The lower compression will let me run higher boost before detonation occurs. More air in equals more power as you have to match the air with fuel.

Stock 4g63 shortblocks have made serious power with the right mods in the past. That will never change and is still possible today. The lower comp ratio is a part of that simple equation.

The 264 cams are all over the mid range. They let the engine breathe better in that 3k to 5k range and mated up with the non-restrictive intake, the BB center section and Marco's work of art, it gets the big comp wheel moving quick enough to be called streetable.

Now obviously the stroker engine and higher comp pistons in Intrusive's set-up let the turbo spool about 400 rpm sooner I guess. I don't know what other mods he has, etc., if the "testing" is the same, etc. 4th gear has a heavy load factor contributing to spool-up and the turbine wheel is already moving at speed.

Respool after a shift is very quick, I'll make notes of that in my next runs and post back some real data on it, but it's astounding is really the word for it. This is where that BB center section earns it's keep and shines. The comp wheel stays spinning at high rpm, without much rpm loss due to friction like a normal turbo would; this lets the boost "turn back on" almost instantly. However, if you granny shift it you can really hear and feel the difference in respool time. That just goes to show how much better the BB center section is at this one point.

As far as the oil feed and my opinion... I wanted it filtered and sourced from the head and nobody was telling me different, so that's what I went with. I just don't really like the oil line feeding from the oil filter bracket. So anyways my oil feed line is a hybrid, half FP and half AGP with K&N filter.

I hollowed out a bad 2G mas to make the transition from the FP intake pipe to the 2G K&N. I rotozipped it out until it was smooth. This is something I'd like to eliminate though and put something there that at least looks better or find a K&N that matches up to it. I haven't had time to even look for something to do that yet.
 
#25 ·
Van said:
I think it's more of a best case scenario.
The lower compression will let me run higher boost before detonation occurs. More air in equals more power as you have to match the air with fuel.

Stock 4g63 shortblocks have made serious power with the right mods in the past. That will never change and is still possible today. The lower comp ratio is a part of that simple equation.
Oh yes, I agree it's better for high-end power. I was refering to low-end. Everyone's idea of streetable is different, so all we can compare is actual numbers.

For a turbo that can make 650hp(!), and with your non-stroked, low compression engine, I'm actually quite amazed at the spool qualities you describe. If I get one, I'll probably end up getting the 3055, as I don't think I'd like an over 4000rpm max boost point.

Once again, thanks to you (and Intrusive) for spending the time to write up your experiences. It really helps a lot of us. :cool: