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Fuel pump rewire: Why it's a good idea.

48K views 49 replies 26 participants last post by  blinkofatalon  
#1 ·
The idea of re-wiring the fuel pump circuit on a DSM is nothing new, but I thought some would be interested in the real benefit of doing so.

The idea is to supply the fuel pump with the highest possible voltage you can get to it. More voltage available at the pump means more potential fuel volume from the pump, all other factors remaining constant.

I was always led to believe that a stock 1G fuel pump circuit was a real bottleneck, with a lot of voltage drop across the circuit between B+ and the pump. With that in mind, I decided to check it myself...


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This is my battery voltage as measured directly at the battery with the engine idling, which is a normal voltage with a good working charging system.


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This is the voltage my pump was seeing at the same time; well over a volt of drop between the battery and the pump. While that may not seem like much, it makes a huge difference when it comes to the pump supplying the fuel. This drop would likely worsten as load on the pump increases, since current demand (amperage) would go up accordingly.

Using some older test info listed on RRE's site, you can expect an increase of flow up to 40%, just going from 12V to 14V. Pretty significant.

I deciced to re-wire my circuit using not overly huge 12 AWG wire, fused at the battery terminal, running un-interrupted to the fuel pump connector. I installed a basic relay in back to allow the factory fuel pump circuit to trigger the control side of the relay, and complete the circuit from my new wire to the pump.

Although I dont have a pic, my voltage went from the 12.6 you see above to about 13.8. Do the math, and you can see what a difference $10 worth of materials and a few hours can make.

I realize I'm not breaking new ground with this, but I thought some newer members might find it interesting. Mods feel free to move this if you see fit.
 
#2 ·
Thanks for taking the time to do this. I've wanted to do this to see what difference it made, it's obvious it does. I rewired mine last night on my new project. Basically i'm running two pumps, one it tank and one inline. I wired to relays that share one trigger, the 12v from battery and the ground. From there each relay goes to each pump. Should work nice.
 
#11 ·
The idea is to get more consistent and possibly more volume from the fuel pump. Biggest benefit would be additional margin of safety against running too lean. Personally, I didn't feel any difference in power, but I did notice less knock after I did the mod. My current setup is very mild, so others with heavier mods may really notice an improvement, particularly when it comes to getting a good tune.
 
#7 ·
The idea is to supply the fuel pump with the highest possible voltage you can get to it. More voltage available at the pump means more potential fuel volume from the pump, all other factors remaining constant.
Ceteris paribus ;)

Great writeup!

Although this would greatly benefit the stock fuel pump, how much do you guys think it will help with a 255 in there?
 
#15 · (Edited)
Would you need different fuses/wires going from a stock to walbro 255? ie: bigger, more volts?
Bigger pumps require more amperage to run at full potential (versus the stock pump). I chose to run 12 awg wire for my setup (Walbro 190), and review the results. Based on what I came up with, I felt the 12 AWG wire is sufficient.

Remember, the more amperage an electrical device draws, the greater the voltage drop would be on the same circuit.

To give a hypothetical example; voltage drop on the fuel pump circuit may be .2V with a stock pump, but may increase to 1.6 V with a big pump that pulls a lot more amperage.

^^^The diagram in the post above me is exactly how I did mine. I chose to solder and heat shrink all connections to eliminate any possible sources of voltage drop (small as they may be).
 
#14 ·
1. Relay

2. 10awg wire (enough to go from you battery to your trunk

3. 12awg wire (one foot should do)

4. 10awg wire (enough to ground somewhere in your trunk)

5. Inline fuse holder

Plus all the ring holders and solder-less crimps, radioshack carries everything you need and will cost less than $20.00.

Here are the instuctions

http://www.plymouthlaser.com/rewire.htm

Here is a diagram that I was kind enough to draw in paint.

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There is no increase in performance but helps your pump maintain a constant voltage and keeps knock at bay, I was a sceptic my self and let me tell you, I am so glad I decided to do it. It took me about three hours but I did it and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, the hardest part is routing the wire through the car and the trunk.

Also while your back in your trunk buy a on/off switch and mount it where ever you want it, T it in to your ground wire, this will require some extra 10awg wire but it is worth it if you don't want your car easily stolen.
 
#17 ·
To be honest, it was the largest gauge wire we had on a spool at work (meaning: free). I figure I would try it, and measure the difference. Going to larger 10 AWG may have been more fitting if I was running something bigger (255 lph+), but for my setup, I think the 12 AWG seems good enough (for now).

Definitely wouldn't hurt to run 10 AWG, and I probably would have if I had some readily available at the time. I did this at work between jobs when we where slow at the dealer I used to work at.

Basically; bigger gauge wire could only help. If you have it, may as well use it. And remember, just as important are the connections along the way. I'd recommend soldering everything you can, and make the most of connector surface areas.
 
#21 ·
I noticed a greater performance gain from rewiring my fuel pump than putting in a big 16g, it is that important, up top it just pulls and never runs out of fuel.

IMO it is mandatory, going with a walboro 255 and using the stock wire would be a waste, the power that a more powerful pump would require would be to much for the stock wire to handle.
 
#22 ·
I noticed a greater performance gain from rewiring my fuel pump than putting in a big 16g, it is that important, up top it just pulls and never runs out of fuel.
A fuel pump rewire doesn't add HP ... So I call this sentence BS.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Well the alternator is in the bay too ... ;) One thing you can do to have less wire right on the + battery is use a fused distribution block. So you use something like a 4ga wire with an inline 60amp fuse and hide the distribution block in the car, than run the fuel pump rewire and other accessories like gauge or switch from the block. :)

Like this:
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