Ok guys and gals, here is my car:
1995 Eclipse GSX-10.3mm magnacore plug wires, NGK spark plugs, 1g bov, k&n airfilter, 1g valve cover, auto gauge boost, oil pressure, and volage gauges, obx racing straight through muffler, running about 16lbs at wot.
My Problem:
I was driving my car in about 10ÂşF weather and was driving it semi-hard(not completly wot) for about 15 min while i was running to the store. Well on the way home i took a corner and put her to WOT and about about 2 seconds the engine stalled out. I pulled over and tried starting her. It started up after maybe 2 cranks and it would barely run. It was like only 2 cyl. were firing. My gauges read as follows: temp normal operating temp, less than 5lbs oil press., 12 volts, factory boost at max reading, my custon boost gauge @ 0. If i didn't touch anything It would barely manage to idle.
Here is the strange thing:
While it was in this state of being, most the warning lights flashed when it was about to die and it sounded like a relay was going crazy under my dash. However after about 30 sec, it would idle up to about 600rpms and idle a little better @ that. If I touched the gas in the previous state it would kill like I was shutting it off with the key. If I let it be it would go up to the 600rpm idle like i said. I could give it some gas but as soon as I would get the rpms over 1100, it would go back to its previous state. If i did try to give it lots of gas it would rev up high like it would without any problems but then it would stall.
What I did:
I got out while it was idleing and checked the timming belt. that was fine. the plug wires were seated good. I unplugged the MAS and plugged it back in. Took off the air tube right @ the elbow of the Trottle body and tried giving it gas(it didn't make a difference), I took off the vacumn line that connects to the PCV on the valve cover and that made it run a little better. Another strange thing is that the radiator fans ran the whole time this was happening despite the 10 degree weather and the fact the engin was cooling down at a pretty good rate. Luckly i was only about 10 blocks from my place so i just idled it home in 2nd.
About 2 weeks before (after I pulled the oil pan) I had the check engine light come one but nothing was acting weird, in fact i had gread prefomance. I reset the ECU to clear the code an I checked the o2 sensor on the downpipe since I had to remove the downpipe to pull the pan. After I cleared it it didn't come back on again or I figured it was a fluke.
I have not look at it very in depth yet becasue it happened at about 10:30 tonight and it is about 10Âş F out here. If anyone has ANY ideas please let me know. I'm fearing the worst. Just so you know I just pulled the oil pan off and replaced the gasket for it and have flushed the cooling system.
Please help me guys. Tomarrow after work I'm going to dig into her and hope to find the problem. let me know maybe what to look for. Maybe the o2 sensor?http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif
1995 Eclipse GSX-10.3mm magnacore plug wires, NGK spark plugs, 1g bov, k&n airfilter, 1g valve cover, auto gauge boost, oil pressure, and volage gauges, obx racing straight through muffler, running about 16lbs at wot.
My Problem:
I was driving my car in about 10ÂşF weather and was driving it semi-hard(not completly wot) for about 15 min while i was running to the store. Well on the way home i took a corner and put her to WOT and about about 2 seconds the engine stalled out. I pulled over and tried starting her. It started up after maybe 2 cranks and it would barely run. It was like only 2 cyl. were firing. My gauges read as follows: temp normal operating temp, less than 5lbs oil press., 12 volts, factory boost at max reading, my custon boost gauge @ 0. If i didn't touch anything It would barely manage to idle.
Here is the strange thing:
While it was in this state of being, most the warning lights flashed when it was about to die and it sounded like a relay was going crazy under my dash. However after about 30 sec, it would idle up to about 600rpms and idle a little better @ that. If I touched the gas in the previous state it would kill like I was shutting it off with the key. If I let it be it would go up to the 600rpm idle like i said. I could give it some gas but as soon as I would get the rpms over 1100, it would go back to its previous state. If i did try to give it lots of gas it would rev up high like it would without any problems but then it would stall.
What I did:
I got out while it was idleing and checked the timming belt. that was fine. the plug wires were seated good. I unplugged the MAS and plugged it back in. Took off the air tube right @ the elbow of the Trottle body and tried giving it gas(it didn't make a difference), I took off the vacumn line that connects to the PCV on the valve cover and that made it run a little better. Another strange thing is that the radiator fans ran the whole time this was happening despite the 10 degree weather and the fact the engin was cooling down at a pretty good rate. Luckly i was only about 10 blocks from my place so i just idled it home in 2nd.
About 2 weeks before (after I pulled the oil pan) I had the check engine light come one but nothing was acting weird, in fact i had gread prefomance. I reset the ECU to clear the code an I checked the o2 sensor on the downpipe since I had to remove the downpipe to pull the pan. After I cleared it it didn't come back on again or I figured it was a fluke.
I have not look at it very in depth yet becasue it happened at about 10:30 tonight and it is about 10Âş F out here. If anyone has ANY ideas please let me know. I'm fearing the worst. Just so you know I just pulled the oil pan off and replaced the gasket for it and have flushed the cooling system.
Please help me guys. Tomarrow after work I'm going to dig into her and hope to find the problem. let me know maybe what to look for. Maybe the o2 sensor?http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif