Ok I got an ac autotechnic boost gauge the other day no directions or any thing but all the hardware was there, I went to put it my car but after looking at for about 2 hours I realized I had no idea how to install it I asked my friends but only one of them has a turbo and he has a greddy electronic boost controller and he had no clue either so if you could please help me out hear I need to either get it in today or tomorrow thanks.
How do I install a boost gauge.
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autocannones
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RippinGSX said:Me neither.I'm sick of rampid stupid shit. :tat:
then go kill urself. u fuckin douche.
many people do many things. just becuase your's has survived still does not make it fact. there are more then one person out there who will have different results from yours.
Awe..Are you sore now because you sound stupid. Sorry.JohnSmith said:
Are you missing the point?? BigBoost also ran 25lbs all day long in case you missed that and so do plenty of other people around here so yes it doea make it fact. Stop spewing misinformation and maybe we will leave you alone. Calling me names will get you knowhere.
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People get MLS HG b/c you shouldnt run 25psi on a stock hg...Doesnt mean you can't, just not very healthy....Its a fun game of Russian Roulette, only the head lifting is the 1 in 6 chance of a pistol going into your brain...
Rippin, dont speak too soon...Its easy to say you have an 11 second dsm, but now its time to actually back it up....Then again, if you run anything other than an 11 with your setup than I will kick myself all day
Rippin, dont speak too soon...Its easy to say you have an 11 second dsm, but now its time to actually back it up....Then again, if you run anything other than an 11 with your setup than I will kick myself all day
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JohnSmithJohnSmith said:
Registered User
New DSMtalker
1970 ford torino wagon
Join Date: May 2006
Location: china
Posts: 10
Hmmm, let's look at this one. JOHN SMITH from CHINA and you drive a 1970 Ford Torino WAGON. Does anyone else see what I'm getting to? :chair:
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Ha...I'll see it when I believe it :tree: ..All you GT35 guys think you can run 10's
I had my Boooooooost gauge tee'd into the FPR solenoid on the firewall...Then, I got hella bad vaccum leaks so I just ripped every single emission hose and vacuum line from my car, including that solenoid...So now its tapped to 1 of the lines off the Intake manifold...
..All you GT35 guys think you can run 10's I had my Boooooooost gauge tee'd into the FPR solenoid on the firewall...Then, I got hella bad vaccum leaks so I just ripped every single emission hose and vacuum line from my car, including that solenoid...So now its tapped to 1 of the lines off the Intake manifold...
Exactly what I said to do.Chicago_DSM said:Ha...I'll see it when I believe it :tree:
I had my Boooooooost gauge tee'd into the FPR solenoid on the firewall...Then, I got hella bad vaccum leaks so I just ripped every single emission hose and vacuum line from my car, including that solenoid...So now its tapped to 1 of the lines off the Intake manifold...
GT35 rules man!!!!! 
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Hey, to answer your question...Im answering your question based on what i did with my car.autocannones said:
First setup the location of the gauge (a-pillar, dash etc.)
To start, those 3 wires on the back of the gauge-White=the ground, Theres a ground underneathe the steering column that I used but any ground will do.
Red wire=12V connection, I used my cigarette lighter for the 12V for two reasons. 1.I never use it and 2. I wanted my gauge always lit. If you do use this 12V connection just know that whenever your car is on the gauge will be lit up (dont know if you care about that)
I didnt use the other black wire-they use it for dimming the gauge. Dont think its necessary.
Next (the fun part)-Youll see that you have a hexagon nut that will screw on the back of the boost gauge. Put that hexagon screw on one end of the vacuum line (the coiled up hose). Next youll find that you have 2 or 3 compressor sleeves (those tiny things-youll know what they are when you see them) put that on the same end of the vacuum line that you put the hexagon nut. The compressor sleeve will slide right on the hose and fit right in the hexagon nut.
When you screw the hexagon nut on the back of the boost gauge that compressor sleeve will expand and keep the hose from coming loose. Dont tighten the nut all the way just yet just in case you need to take it off for whatever reason.
I ran the vacuum line down through the steering boot. If you follow the steering column down youll see a rubber boot, thats what you want to cut and run the vacuum line through (be careful when cutting away at the boot to not cut anything else.) It made it a lot easier with 2 people so if theres someone you know who could help you with this next step itd suggest them helping you.
Once you have a hole cut through the steering boot, you need to run the vacuum line through. I taped the hose to a hanger and put it through that way, made it a lot easier. You can use a hanger or whatever else you can find or think of.
I used the FPS and Ive had no issues so far, but as you can see from this thread some people may have other opinions.
What you want to do if you do chose to use the FPS is cut the hose thats on the left side of the FPS and use the 'T' fitting that they give you. Put the 'T' fitting securely in between the cut hose, slide the 2 sides of the cut hose on opposite sides of the 'T'. I used wire ties at the end of each hose to secure it and make sure theres no leaks. The black rubber hose they give you goes on the other end of the 'T' fitting. Youll find another screw in the box that has a "nipple" on one end. That "nipple" goes into the end of the black hose. If you look back when you used the compressor sleeve and hexagon screw on the back of the boost gauge, the same directions apply here. On the end of the vacuum line that you just pulled through the steering boot you want to put the other hexagon screw on and the other compressor sleeve.
Next screw the hexagon screw on the other end of the "nipple" screw that you just put into the black hose. As a final step tighten all the screws and hoses so they are not loose.
I secured all the ends of the hoses with wire ties to make sure there were no leaks. You should then check and make sure there are no kinks in the hose. As a final step just check over your work and make sure all the hoses/wires are not be interupted by any pedals or moving parts under the steering column.
If you have any specific questions on a certain step just ask and good luck with it.
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Give it up buddy, its over and done with.
As for my thoughts on tapping the fuel solenoid. I've t'd into mine as well, but I agree 100% that if you have leaks there that it could be VERY bad! I've actually had leaks at the T itself. Thankfully I found it and fixed it before things could do any damage.
As for my thoughts on tapping the fuel solenoid. I've t'd into mine as well, but I agree 100% that if you have leaks there that it could be VERY bad! I've actually had leaks at the T itself. Thankfully I found it and fixed it before things could do any damage.
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Wow, if I was to go back and correct everything that was wrong, implied, or flat out stupid I would be here all day.
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