You don not need to remove the transmission to install that bolt. And yes it is needed. If not you risk breaking the ear off the block from engine torque. I don't remember 100% but you might need to remove the inspection shield to install it, but i don't think you even need to remove that. It's very simple.

 

You don not need to remove the transmission to install that bolt.

Here is the hole on the block that have no bolt, just the alignment dowel. The threading is in the block, so the bolt will have to come from the transmission side.

And yes it is needed. If not you risk breaking the ear off the block from engine torque.

Now I'm REALLY going to install it!!

I don't remember 100% but you might need to remove the inspection shield to install it, but i don't think you even need to remove that. It's very simple.

I have looked for covers in line of the bolt, but have not found it yet... But it will have to be on the inside somewhere, thats why I ask.

Thanks

 

The bolt is required. This bolt is attached through the tab on the block, and into the transmission bellhousing, by installing it from the driver-side of the transmission.

Here is an illustration.

 

Yeah, this is the correct bolt.

I got a thought. The threading in the block, can it be M10 size? If so, a M8 bolt will fit through and into the transmission, and my problem will be solved! I'm off to measure it. A M10 threading are normally 8.5mm's inside dia.

Thanks for the illustration!

 

I don't ever remember there being threading on the block for that reversed bolt..... maybe it was tapped?

 

Yeah, it was that threading that made me wonder! It might have been tapped, and because of that, I was able to use that hole for the enginestand bracket with a M10x1,25mm pitch bolt.

 

I am facing the same issue. I have a spare transmission i am looking at right now. There is no threads or even a hole for a bolt to go through the transmission. It almost looks like the bolt is just to keep the transmission for rotating with the block as apposed to holding it to the block.

 

It does both. The hollow dowel keeps the trans from rotating and the smaller bolt keeps the trans pulled up to the block to mechanically 'bind' it all together.

 

It should be easy for you. My awd you have to drop the transfer case to get to it.
Lets put it this way. If you don't put it in you probaly will crack your bellhousing because you will notice that there is gap between the engine and trans and you will try to tighten it up and it just won't work like that( I didn't get this bolt and cracked my bellhousing trying to get them to mate well.) It also eventually popped a clutch spring out and it had a party on my flywheel. Soo i had to pull my trans again and finally found out that i never had that bolt and that was the reason i had to pull it the first time. Soo to prevent alot of trouble get tha bolt and make sure it is grade 8 or higher.

 

I understand that it goes from the driver side through the block and threads into the tranny. But the hole in my tranny has no threads on it. It's clean!!

 

It goes from the block side into the tranny, the block is threaded but the bolt passes through it. The tranny is threaded but it is far enough down its difficult to see.

 

Just for reference, that bolt has a number 10 on the head.

 

Sean485 is correct. I got my new bolts yesterday and one is indeed smaller. It passed right through the threads on the block and threaded into the tranny. I later looked at my spare tranny(this time with a flashlight) and found that the theads start about 3/8'' back and are alot smaller than the hole itself.

 

i had the same exact thing happen as jwhalen07 did. i bought this car with less than 500 miles on a new stage 2 exceedy clutch. i was driving it one day and my clutch locked up and i couldnt shift or if i had it in gear my car would take off. i had to drive it home this way. i took it home and took it appart and thought the clutch took a crap not realizing that a bolt was missing i had the clutch welded up as a temporary fix to get it too my new place. i drove it too my new place the next day and it broke once i got there. i pulled the trans and bought a new clutch. i drove it for a few months and then my car wouldnt go into reverse. i looked at my trans and it had a big crack. so i drove my car that way for an hour drive to a junk yard where i removed it and got it out a minute before they closed but they said i had to pick it up the next day. so i picked it up the minute they opened the next day and made it home safe where i removed it once again and replaced it i put about 10,000 miles on the car and i replaced the rear engine mount and the bolt had fallen out and i jacked up the engine a bit too get the engine mount alligned i bounced down on the body a little bit to try to get the mount to allign andi hear a small bang i dont think anything of it i get the mount on and take it for a test drive and it started vibrating allot and i check and saw there was another crack.i bought a new car so i can put some time into the talon. i picked up another transmission a month ago for $75. but i also made up a brace that will help keep this from happening ever again.

so yes it is very important to have that collar and bolt in, if you do not you will crack your bell housing and trust me it sucks.

 

Yes, both dowels and all the bell housing bolts are critical.