Pick up a can of motor flush, follow the directions. Repeat at each oil change until you feel you've got all the gunk.

Seafoam for carbon build up. Put a can in the gastank at fillup. Do a search on Seafoam and learn how to use it to clean your intake, pistons and valves.

 

Don't touch it!!!! It'll probably leak like crazy once you do!!! I've been there, done that. The gunk is actually pretty good at stopping leaks. Just change the oil and switch to Castrol GTX which is supposed to be great for fighting sludge and all but hopefully won't ruin your seals like a motor flush does on a high mileage motor. I flushed mine and shortly thereafter, changed front crank seal, balance shaft seal and oil pump seal before the next oil change. Good Luck!!!! If it's not broke, don't fix it!!!!

 

Sand is right. Don't flush it if it has high milage. One thing you can do though is drop the pan and clean it out then put fresh Castrol GTX in the like Sand mentioned.

 

Don't touch it!!!! It'll probably leak like crazy once you do!!! I've been there, done that. The gunk is actually pretty good at stopping leaks. Just change the oil and switch to Castrol GTX which is supposed to be great for fighting sludge and all but hopefully won't ruin your seals like a motor flush does on a high mileage motor. I flushed mine and shortly thereafter, changed front crank seal, balance shaft seal and oil pump seal before the next oil change. Good Luck!!!! If it's not broke, don't fix it!!!!

Agreed. +1

 

Yeah, I only noticed some slight sludgy buildup in the bottom of the oil pan when I rebuilt mine at 196K. Everything else was good. But then, I've never been a spoiled rich kid.

I did notice a fair amount of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber, so seafoam may be a bennefit as suggested.

 

I've used motor flush on my car repeatedly. Not just this car but others too. I have NEVER had any problems. Just my experience.

You asked how to ungunk the engine, I told you. Do as you see best.

Another method is using ATF in the oil. Like 1/2 a quart and drive for a short period of time. The additional detergents in ATF will help disolve some of the gunk, then change your oil as normal. Seafoam can go in the crankcase as well.

Esentially many of the motor flushes, etc. are basically a petroleum distillant much like kerosene.

 

don't use seafoam. i seafoamed my car at 70-something k miles and the car never burned any oil til after i seafoamed it. then i seafoamed the car again at 80k miles and i noticed i was loosing ALOT of oil pressure. and was burning ALOT of oil. now my cars sitting in my driveway and i got a 6bolt sitting in the garage ready to throw in.

moral of the story. dont use any of that mirical shit in a can.

btw i sucked the seafoam in threw a vacuum line.

 

don't use seafoam. i seafoamed my car at 70-something k miles and the car never burned any oil til after i seafoamed it. then i seafoamed the car again at 80k miles and i noticed i was loosing ALOT of oil pressure. and was burning ALOT of oil. now my cars sitting in my driveway and i got a 6bolt sitting in the garage ready to throw in.

moral of the story. dont use any of that mirical shit in a can.

btw i sucked the seafoam in threw a vacuum line.

Your moral is cracked. If you sucked it through the vac. line, not enough of it hit ANYTHING oil pressure related to cause the problems you had. MOST of it was burned up in the cumbustion chambers and the rest vapored and went out the exhaust.

Before you bash something that literally thousands of people have had success with, maybe you should consider that that engine was on it's last leg anyhow. Maybe due to poor maint by it's prior owners, maybe it just got dogged out by you , but Seafoam the way you used it wasn't a contributing factor.

Billy

 

Here's a nice, safe, gentle way to clean some sludge, and also quite down the lifters: on the day of your nexet oil change, before you change the oil, just pour in a bottle of either marvel mystery oil (or half bottle, depends on which size you buy, and your personal preference, it comes in a pint or a quart, I have found a quart is only 3.99 at walmart, versus $5-$6 a pint for seafoam), or a can of seafoam. Just pour that into your crankcase, and drive around a little bit, gently, or just let it idle for 5 minutes in there, then drain/change your oil. It cleans the lifters, so they will be quite at least for about 2000 miles or so.

It's fairly gentle, so it shouldn't hurt anything, or losen up too much stuff at once. I'd use the MMo because it's more cost-effective.

Do it every oil change.

 

Throwing in my two cents. If you do a oil flush as often as you do an oil change when the engine has little miles, you can use ATF or Seafoam (great stuff btw) as often as you want. If you do it on an engine that has 100K or so for the first time, the carbon and sludge is actually helping to seal the engine. And once you remove it, then the engine starts burning oil bad. So to the guy who says not to use oil flush additives like Seafoam, take better care of your engines and you won't have that problem. ATF is relatively cheap and works just as well. Marvel Mystery Oil is good too. Doing this will also help keep that annoying "lifter tick" at bay as well.