Drop the turbo, it isn't worth the frustration to try to keep the turbo up there.

 

Hey spyder, why the f**k did you put thread sealant on a JIC or AN fitting ? Dont ask why it leak ... Read this and learn http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2222995#post2222995

 

That is not were it is leaking. Its leaking where the stainless steel hose turns into a hard pipe. But your right, I shouldn't have used tephlon tape. I realized what I did awhile back but it wasn't leaking and never has so I was going to correct it next time I puller my Turbo.

 

Reading is hard, especially when they're instructions.

 

For the J-pipe, are you sure you have that weird bracket out of the way? I've seen others who get it trapped under the flange of the pipe and it will NEVER seal like that.

 

Weird bracket? The only thing close to it is the heat sheild. My other j pipe had a leak too. Do you guys use rvt sealant or just the gasket by itself?

 

Use some copper rtv on the gasket, but make sure you actually follow the directions on the rtv.

 

I hear your supposed to let the rtv sit on the gasket for like 10 mins then put the gasket where it needs to be and tighten it up.

 

I have read that too but all my friends who work in mechanic told me the opposite. I also had success not waiting 10 min.

Maybe your flange on the j-pipe is not flat enough ... Check it with a ruler or a flat surface.

 

There is a bracket which goes to one of the coolant lines or something. Usually bolts under the farthest bolt hole. You may or may not still have it on there. I've seen people forget it is there and bolt it under the J-pipe by accident instead of on top.

 

For the banjo bolt...I couldnt fit my wrench on there with the radiator installed. So I took a 19mm (whatever the bolt is, think its 19) socket and a 12mm bolt and nut. Put the bolt through the socket where the ratchet goes with the head sticking out the top. Tighten the nut down on the inside with some needlenose pliers or something. Now you can use a smaller 12mm wrench to break the banjo free and then just spin it out by hand.

Thats what I did anyway, didnt feel like dropping the turbo.

 

You can also buy a socket that has a hex forged into the outside and use a wrench on it. I thought my snapon guy was a dick trying to push them onto me, until I needed one.

 

Thanks for the help. I will check to see if that flange is flat. That sounds like it could be the problem. I guess my other one was not flat as well. Yeah, I didn't feel like dropping the turbo either because I only have an hour to change the oil and the line, so hopfully nothing else goes wrong. When I started my car and the oil started puring out I did get a P0110 and P0105 CEL for some weird reason. That has never come on before. Its the baro pressure sensor and IAT sensor. Sounds like my MAF somehow got messed up, but at the time I didn't have my couping tightened down at the turbo and air intake. Not sure if thats why it came on. I will clear it with link and see if it comes back on. Thanks again for the help.

 

Just wanted to say thanks for the help. I was able to get the line off and put the new one on. Thanks for the tip on the AN fittings. I take it once it starts to move the line with it than its tight. It doesn't leak so I must have tighten it down enough.

 

Make sure the flange on the j pipe is true, I have gotten some that the flange was warped, probably from the heat of welding the pipe on it. Either way is both surfaces are flat and clean it should seal with the stock gasket.

 

Yeah I'm almost 100 percent sure its not flat. I have a belt sander that should take care of it.