My guess is the bolts had been coming loose for quite some time. When you accellerated, the flex plate and converter didn't spin at the same time (due to the loose bolts), and they had sheared because that little bit of play created enough momentum to cut through the bolts. You're probably not the first person this has happened to, and certainly not the last, but I'd guess it would have been about time to check on them anyhow. Good news is, when you put new ones in - you'll be able to make sure everything's all snug tight!

 

I've seen it a time or two, I think they have arp bolts for this.

 

I would have to say that they broke one at a time over a period of months and you have been driving on one bolt for awhile now, they work themselves loose if you dont loctite them.

 

The car had only been on the road with the newley restalled converter for about a week, all bolts were tight and red loctited in. I know they were tight because I was just under the car putting my lower ic pipe on and I always look for anything out of place when I'm down there. Reason for ic pipe, is my mani cracked and I had it re welded then I reinstalled the turbo kit.

I just hope I can extract the broken bolts w/o needing to drop the trans

 

You can use factory new bolts from here;
http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product_p/nmd952169.htm

I used these bolts and cut them so the same amount of threads are sticking out..Run a nut on them BEFORE you cut them off to clean the threads...And yes you will need two packs of three to get four bolts.. Use locktite on threads and Torque to 53-55 ft.lbs.

 

Awesome, you da man.... I however will be ordering 3 packs. Since I have to yet again drop the trans I'm going to have a custom Kiggly style flex plate made to utilize all 8 bolt holes in a Precision Industries converter and retain the thickness of two plates in one.

 

I have heard of this happening alot even with new bolts and loctite. So what I did was put the bolts in with loctite and torque them to spec, then tack welded each bolt.

 

I would probably go with safety wire and loctite.

 

That only works if they are backing out which mine were not. They straight sheared off like if I hit 800ft lbs of torque all of a sudden from a starting the car at 0 - rpm... lol

The tack weld idea is a good one, someone else on here does that too... If this happens again that will be my new avenue.

 

Also, does anyone know what kind of metal is used to make these flex plates. Is it a mild steel, stainless or some titanium based alloy?

 

From what I recall when doing a disassemble is it looked like a hardened steel, versus just a mild steel. Like they had been anealed.

 

Hmm, okay thanks. I think I'm going to just go ahead and have 8-bolt double thick flex plates machined and use 8-arp's. This way I never have to go through this again, kiggley won't make one for a 7-bolt. I guess I will have one made, maybe 2 just incase someone else needs one.

 

Why can't he just take a 6 bolt blank and drill 7 holes for you with no warranty?

 

Running duel 7 bolt flexplates is your best option..Part # MD760092..I paid $37.00 for mine from the dealer...I have never heard of this setup failing....

 

I do run dual flex plates and they are still in excellent condition. I just need something that will help distribute the load across more contact points leaving less room for failure.

 

I'm a little lost here, why would you want to run 2 flexplates?

 

Here is a link and thread to the picture shown..
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...tbnw=143&prev=/images?q=BROKEN+FLEXPLATE+ECLIPSE+PIC&um=1&hl=en&sa=X&tbs=isch:1

 

Why is it Kiggley don't make a 7 bolt flex plate? I guess I could call and find out first hand. But I figure somebody here might know why.

 

It would be best to actually make a sort of dowel pin setup next to the bolts that the plate can engage to up the load carrying capability of the bolts.

 

So, i feel real dumb asking this, but I can take 2 stock flexplates, weld them together along the edges and run them with some ARP bolts?

 

Like said welding them is not necessary. It would probably cause it to crack anyway. But you can't just put 2 flex plates together. You also have to use 2 chime plates between engine and trans. With the one closes to the engine cut where the starter goes. This gives you proper clearance for the starter, and to prevent crank walk.

 

Don't cut ARP bolts. When cutting them, they heat up and get screwed. Ask me how I know. Best bet is new Factory bolts with tons of locktite.


Same goes for the Supra Kit that people use on DSM's.

 

As it was previously said, factory bolts are to short.

 

Alot of people use TOO MANY chime plates and then their car makes those anoying sounds like when you leave the door open with the keys in the ignition. lol

 

Sorry spell check error "shim" was the word I was looking for.

 

Maybe I should start another thread about flexplates and when they are needed.

 

I run double flex plates and I had them welded together by drilling through one and filling the holes with weld, then grinding it flush again. I also used blue loctite when I installed it and it lasted almost 2 years before I heard a noise that turned out to be the bolts coming loose. I use the stock bolts as well, and have been told that 3 threads is as good as 20, it will all come down to the strength of the bolt after that. You need to add a second starter plate and cut one for the starter to sit in the right spot. I kept the other shims that go between the crank and the flex plates...at least one of them...can't remember now. Anyway, its good enough for the over 300 I put to the wheels.

 

Found the cure to snapping those 4 bolts

Custom cnc'd Automatic Flex plate, 3 times as strong as the factory and uses 8 mounting points instead of the 4. My answer to the kiggley flex plate for 7-bolts... Yes this is for 2g 7-bolt auto and is spot on!