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Ksport Coilover Installation

12K views 40 replies 19 participants last post by  ~KiNg MaRtY~  
#1 ·
Ksport Coilover Installation
Brought to you by: b00st3d

Overview

This VFAQ covers the installation of the ksport coilover struts in my 1G. This covers the basic process from start to finish(except the alignment). Ksport coilovers are available for 1G fwd/awd, 2G fwd/awd as well as Galants. I'm sure there is more than one way to do this, but here is how I did it.
Parts & Tools Needed:

Parts needed:
  • Ksport coilovers specific to your car.
Tools required:
  • Floor jack or lift
  • Lug wrench
  • Cut-off wheel or dremel
  • 17mm, 14mm and 12mm wrenches
  • Ratchet wrench 3/8 or ½
  • 17mm & 14mm deep sockets
  • WD-40(optional)
  • Wire brush
  • Pry bar(may not be needed)
Step by step Instructions


First thing to be done is t set the initial height of the coilovers. I started by measuring the length of the struts from the bottom of the upper mount to the top bolt on the lower mount. Since I knew the car wouldn’t settle much I subtracted 1.5 inches from that length and adjusted the coilovers to that length. Now on to the work:



Image

It’s a fairly simple task, so let’s just start with the basics. Pop the hood and the hatch and remove the two covers from the rear strut tops.

First, we loosen all 6 top nuts; 3 per side(remove 2 per side) for the front struts. Next loosen the 4 rear nuts; 2 per side(remove 1 from each side).
14mm
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Next we will raise the car to get access to the lower mounting hardware.
Image


Of course the first thing you need to do is remove the wheel.

Next thing to do is unbolt the brake line from the back of the strut.(12mm)
Image


Now we need to get the nuts and bolts removed from the bottom of the strut. 17mm wrench and 17mm socket.

Once you have removed the two bottom bolts you can remove the top nuts we loosened earlier and remove the strut. Be careful not to drop it on yourself. It will fall when you take off the last nut!

While the strut is out of the way, this is a good time to clean the surface that will fit back into the new coilover, otherwise it will be hard to fit together.
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Another angle.
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Now we need to cut the old brake line bracket so it can be removed without opening the hydraulic system for the brakes.
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I mounted the bracket to the lower bolt and bent it to fit where I wanted it to be. I put the grommet on the metal crimp, not the rubber.
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At this point if you measured correctly, you can put the wheel back on.
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Wheel put on with coilovers installed.

Now repeat the above process on the other front coilover.

It’s time to move to the rear. Start by unbolting the brake line bracket from the strut.
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Now remove the bolt from the lower mount in the rear strut. With the bolt removed, pull the lower section of the strut from the mount. I had to use a pry bar on mine. Be careful not to leave the rubber bushing on the mount.

Once the bottom of the strut is free, remove the remaining nut from the top mount and remove the strut from under the car.
Image


Now put the strut on the lower mount.
Image


To install the rear bracket, remove the top bolt from the caliper bracket(e-brake has to be disengaged).

Use the jack to help lift strut into position to put the top mount nuts on. Repeat for the other side.

Be sure and check all nuts and bolts to make sure that everything was tightened back up. Now lower the car and check measurements to the fender well. Make sure both sides match. Adjust height as needed. Congratulations, you have now installed your ksport coilovers. First thing to do after installing coilovers is to go get an alignment. If you neglect this you will be buying new tires very soon.
 
#2 ·
I will post some after pics tomorrow. During the install i forgot to take pics of removing the nuts from the top mounts and a few other small things but you should get the basic idea.
 
#4 ·
On another note, the brake line brackets that come with ksports are flat black pieces of metal(that resemble a wrench) that have to be bent to fit where you want them to be. It seems that a lot of us over-looked what these were since the instructions that come with the coilovers are lackluster at best, if you even got a set of instructions.
 
#5 ·
Went and got my alignment today and i have the ride height at 26" for both fronts and 26.5" in the rears. Camber wasn't pretty but all is well now.

Here's how it looks now:

Image


and here's how it looked a couple of weeks ago:

Image
 
#7 ·
I didn't take any pictures of the top mounts but i can tomorrow.
 
#9 ·
I went with 9k/7k and it is a firm ride on the "soft" setting and it'll shake a filling out on "hard". As far as lowering it there is all sorts of room to come down, but the back only has about 1 more inch it could be raised and still be threaded enough to feel safe about. There is enough room to lower you could sit the car on the wheels if thats your thing but it would be a challenge to get a car to actually sit stock height with these coilovers.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Not sure about you Tony, but, the front stock nuts for the upper pillow ball mounts were of a different size (smaller) in comparison to those for the K-sport mounts. Weird! Considering the rears were the same. They really should have included nuts with the c/o. It's the little details like those that count. :) Just need to go and get 6 new correctly sized nuts. Mine will sit a little lower. Not worried of rubbing since I have aggressive spring rates and they will be set at ~75-80% up front. Pretty much, it will sit close to what it looks like in my sig. Just watch out for those dead skunks and chipmunks on the road. ;)

Nice write up!
 
#11 ·
My nuts all transfered over, the stud is a lot longer on the ksports though. I started off with a 24.75" height up but even that was too low with my wheel/tire combo(245/45/17), i have a few scrapes on the fronts from hitting the fenders, so i raised it back up to the 26" mark and i like the way it's sittin'.
 
#20 ·
dsmskyline said:
Whats the price for those bad boys? For a 1g AWD...

Thanks,
Thomas
Depends on who you buy them from. Retail is a little over a grand but some of us have gotten them for a few hundred bucks cheaper.


T.L.B. said:
Image


Just a little too low for my taste but it still looks good.
I like my car low. It has always sat low, I'm used to it. You really have to adjust how you drive a lowered car.


How much better does the car take corners now?
It feels very stable, although I haven't really pushed it on the twisties yet.

projecTSI said:
Wow, that just looks badass diambo. VERY nice.
Thanks. :)


punisher said:
How do they ride compaired to stock? or compaired to eibachs with agx's?
Very stiff. If you have crappy roads, you will feel every bump. They are racing coilovers, so don't expect a Lexus/Mercedes Benz ride. They are very very firm. I can jump on the drivers side frame and the car will not sway at all. I am yet to play with the damping.


T.L.B. said:
diambo4life: What is the size of your tires?
215/45/17
 
#22 ·
Thanks Chris. It's no longer scary hitting the binders after making third gear tuning pulls. Stable. I think she will hook nuts when I take it back to the track. Looking to beat my previous best (1.62 60') on street tires. :)
 
#26 ·
91TSiGuy said:
Just finished putting mine on today, aside from adjusting their final ride height and finding some matching bolts for the front hub mount. The bracket install pics were definitely a help. Thanks!
Glad it helped someone out! :D

I just changed to some new 215-45-17s so i'm about to lower mine another 3/4" or so ..