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Turbo_Drop_Top

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
ok i tried finding what i was looking for through the search button but everything came back as a lifter tick and i dont think i have a lifter tick. ok heres the story. i bought my 96 gst about a year ago and the engine did tick alittle a friend said it was no biggie i could just change the lifters but it isnt that important. so i drove the car for like a year and just got use to the ticking. it wasnt bad just ticked when i first turned the car on and drove for like the first five minutes then it went away. recently about a month ago i noticed when i was sitting in my car waiting for it to warm up in the cold weather here that every now and then i could feel the car like jump or skip a beat. it was weird i dont know how to better explain it but it just felt like when i sat there once in a while the car just vibrated slightly and the rpms moves maybe 50 rpms up or down hardly noticable. dont know if that has anything to do with what is wrong but thats what happened. then one day i went out to start my car to warm it up, started the car and went inside for like 10 minutes when i came back my car was idleing at the zero line. the car was still running and shaking slightly. i gave it some gas and thats where the terriable terriable terriable ticking began. everytime i gave it gas the car ticked crazy loud and it never goes away i let the car run for 30 min and tried again but the tick was still there. then i noticed when i give it gas the tachometer doesnt really read right. i can feel that i was revving the car to like 6000 but it only showed 2500. i kept revving the car trying to figure out what is giong on then all of a sudden the tach jumped from 3000 to 6500. the car ran like normal. it was as if there was something stuck and when i revved it it came lose and everything was back to normal. i thought it was just cause it was so cold out. i went to the gas station turned the car off and started it back up and i worked fine. but when i went to get back onthe street i heard this loud noise almost like something HUGE fell out from under my car. then again the car was idling at zero shaking slightly terriable ticking and the tachometer didnt work right. i did a compression test and the numbers came back good 140 142 140 138. i got under the hood and was pulling the trottle to try to find the ticking and i noticed it doesnt sound like it was coming from the head. and i figured that it cant be a bent valve or stuck lifter since the compression test was good. the ticking seemed like it was coming from the left bottom of the motor. i still have the stock t25 turbo so i thought maybe it went bad so i took off the intake and messed witht the turbo. no shaft play and when i started it you could see the turbo spun fine and sucked in air well. another weird thing is when i had the intake off i didnt have the MAF hooked up and the three lines that go into the intake hooked up. the car ran the same when the intake was on and when it was off. usually when ever i unplugged the maf the car shaked crazy and bogged out eventually. well now my car sits in my driveway. friedns are telling me to change the lifters but i dont think that will help at all just put a hole in my wallet. some one please please please help. sorry about the life story but just wanted to get every detail in there. O and please help im being forced to drive a del sol until i can fix this!!!!!!!!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
sorry dont know what a balance shaft bearing is????? is it a expensive fix can i do it my self at home??? also i was looking at overbore.com and some of the signs of crankwalk are what is wrong with my car can that be a problem with it also??? any feedback is appreciaed thanx :wall:
 
Turbo_Drop_Top said:
sorry dont know what a balance shaft bearing is????? is it a expensive fix can i do it my self at home??? also i was looking at overbore.com and some of the signs of crankwalk are what is wrong with my car can that be a problem with it also??? any feedback is appreciaed thanx :wall:
Pull your steering wheel to the left all the way and push in the clutch. Does the clutch drop to the floor?
 
4g64fiero said:
Eyes,,,,,,my eyes------BURNING!!!!!!!!!... .... .. no ..........capi.....capit.............capitali................CAPITALIZATION!?!?!?!?!??!?!:freak:

I know this isn't much help, but imagine being Dyslexic and trying to read that. I think it took me about 20 minutes, and I STILL don't know what he said.

Billy
 
Daywalker69 said:
I know this isn't much help, but imagine being Dyslexic and trying to read that. I think it took me about 20 minutes, and I STILL don't know what he said.

Billy
Thats my point, all that effort not to form paragraphs or capitalize anything.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
TSi16GAWD said:
Pull your steering wheel to the left all the way and push in the clutch. Does the clutch drop to the floor?
pulled wheel to the left and pushed the clutch in nothing happened clutch didnt stay on the floor came back up as usual. when i started the car it didnt want to start though so i had to let it crank for a little longer then it finally took. its like there is someting in the engine that is stuck and it needs to come lose in order to fix the problem :wall: :wall: :wall:
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
when i bought the car the guy said he replaced the disc on the clutch but i had no way of actually knowing if he was telling the truth. i had another guy tell me if the ticking comes from the top of the motor it is the lifters, right side of the motor(pulley side) it is crankwalk, and if its the left side like mine is its the clutch chattering. can someone please verify this. i dont wanna go buy a new clutch and flywheel for like 700 dollars if i dont need it. thatd be something if i spent all that money and the problem wasnt fixed. also if anyone is interested i wanna sell this eclipse its a 96 gst spyder with 110k all stock w/custom white and black interior, carbon extreme hood, tyc taillights, 18" zigens, and brand new top put on fall 2006. i live in south chicago suburbs so please spread the word. looking to get 5000 as is. but first can anyone help me with my ticking problem???
 
So you're getting a strange ticking from your engine. It can't be your clutch since now your car doesn't turn on. You're sure that it isn't lifter tick. Are you getting fuel and spark first off? Secondly, where did the ticking sound come from? Internally? On the outside of the engine? When was the last time that you changed the fuel filter? Get a scan tool. Right now, that's probably your best bet. You can rent them for around 250 (depending on where you go and where you live) from an Advanced Auto/O'Reily's/NAPA etc. Plug it in and turn your key to "On" I believe, and then you can start reading the codes.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
caffeinetripp said:
So you're getting a strange ticking from your engine. It can't be your clutch since now your car doesn't turn on. You're sure that it isn't lifter tick. Are you getting fuel and spark first off? Secondly, where did the ticking sound come from? Internally? On the outside of the engine? When was the last time that you changed the fuel filter? Get a scan tool. Right now, that's probably your best bet. You can rent them for around 250 (depending on where you go and where you live) from an Advanced Auto/O'Reily's/NAPA etc. Plug it in and turn your key to "On" I believe, and then you can start reading the codes.
the ticking sounds like it is coming from the bottom left of the motor(trans side) i cant really pinpoint it though. it kinda sounds like it is outside of the motor cause it is really loud but i dont really know. i was reading about a fuel filter today also. how would i know if i need to change it??? how can i check if im getting fuel and spark. a buddy has a scan tool im gunna see if i can get it from him ill post the codes that come back. my check engine light was on before this happened and the code read a idle control sensor. could that have something to do with it??? thanx for the input
 
You can check to see if you're getting fuel by unplugging the lead that connects to the fuel rail from the fuel filter (I'm not sure where it is on the 2.0, but on the 1.8 it's on the left hand side). Make sure that you put the tube into an empty non-styrofoam bottle because there's going to be some fuel that will come out of the tube and the fuel rail. And check to see if your fuel pump goes off when you turn the key to the "On" position. You can check for spark by getting a spark plug tester. You plug one end onto the spark plug and one end onto the spark plug wire. There is a light that will blink on it. It doesn't cost that much, around $7-$8. (Don't know if you've done this yet) But check the battery as well (of course!).

Wish I could tell you what the direct problem was.
 
That is beginning to should like crankwalk to me. Unplugged your neutral safety switch under the dash, and try starting the car without the clutch. Next thing to look for is you Oil Pressure gauge. If you see you oil pressure and your RPMs drop significantly when you press the clutch, it's a good chance you have crankwalk.

Or I could just be making you scared sh!tless and it might just be either Throw Out Bearing, or something else clutch related.
 
Turbo_Drop_Top said:
how would i go about checking that. is there a way to check the leads.
I'm not sure because you have a 96' but I will try and find out for you tomorrow. As for troubleshooting for your no start, here is what I posted earlier, some might not apply to you but you'll get the idea. If CAS truly is the issue as I suspect, it will fall into the NO SPARK catagory.

Basically you need the following to start your motor.

1. Properly timed ignition (spark) : Did you verified wire orders? On the head it's 4321 and on the coil from left to right is 4123. Did you attach an old plug to each wire and ground it one at a time to the intake manifold to make sure you're getting spark on all fours? There are two types of timing, cam timing and ignition timing, lining up the timing marks on the timing belt side is to check CAM timing, not ignition timing. I suspect this is probably the issue since you said the car started after you turn the cas (DO NOT TURN THE CAS AGAIN WITHOUT PROPER GROUNDING), you need to get your hands on a timing gun and PROPERLY set your ignition base timing to 5*BTDC.

2. Proper mixture of air and fuel (fuel) : First make sure you're getting fuel to each cylinder by removing every spark plug after cranking and smell for fuel in each cylinder. After you're sure you're getting fuel in all fours, time to check a/f ratio, two things to check here, FPR/pump (need a fuel pressure gauge) and ECT (follow service manual and meassure the resistance value of the ECT)

3. Compression : You have already physically check the timing marks, time to whip out the compression tester.
 
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