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Same thing this weekend... injector 4 no signal.

ended up being wiring. Make sure the wire leading to the ECU is good to go still.. start up the car and jiggle it a bit to see if that works.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
biglipps66 said:
Same thing this weekend... injector 4 no signal.

ended up being wiring. Make sure the wire leading to the ECU is good to go still.. start up the car and jiggle it a bit to see if that works.
nothing, so i cant start it.... the MFI relay now goes crazy when the ignition is on... maybe im on to something? :dunno:
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
ok as i said above now i have no injector pulse for some stupid reason.

I am getting signal from the CAS, the voltage at pin #1 of the injector connector drops to 11v's when cranking and pin #2 drops to 6v's. I swapped to the 95 ecu to see if i got anything from that but i didnt even have spark when i went to that ecu. (bye bye eprom:()

Anyone have any ideas on this now. Not having any injector pulse and constant voltage to both pin's of the injector connector
 
If I remember right, the ecu pulses injectors on and off. If you looked at the voltage on a scope you would see that the voltage goes between 0 and 12 volts but the length of time spent at 12 volts changes with RPM. The voltmeter isn't able to show each 12 volt pulse so it reads an average value between 0 and 12V - the faster the engine spins, more time is spent at 12V, higher the voltage shown by the voltmeter. If this info is something you already know, or doesn't help you at all just ignore it.

I have a similar problem - cyl 1&4 fire, 2&3 don't. Coil for cyl 2&3 doesn't fire at all. My car sat for 6 months and now it just won't run on all 4 cylinders, although I did move my coils. The weather is nasty and I haven't had much time to play with it.

Good luck,

Stevan
 
HEY are you sure that u dont have a bad ignition module?? the ecm really does'nt have any thing to do with the ignition supplying spark....but the ignition module DOES supply the digital pulse to the ecu for the tach signal and possibly the injector sequencing!!!
 
here's another thought...u could have a bad coil pack for two of the cylinders..that CAN stop u from getting injector pulse!!!...if the ecu see's the wrong resistance from the primary of the ignition coil it will pull the fuel pulse from that cylinder to prevent engine damage/fuel in the oil,flooding etc.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
ok let me do this first. I run 4 coils... yes 4 not 2 anymore :) Its a custom setup similar to the one sold from i think buschur. I know these are good because i have swapped them onto a 97 awd eclipse and they worked like a charm. Just for a little insight, +4mpg gas mileage and way better throttle response. This is with having the colder ngk plugs and msd. back to the problem though:

i know the coils are good since i tested them. I know the 97+ ecu is good it was tested too, same with the resistor box.

From what i know the ECM (ECU) whatever you wanna call it, does have everything to do with the injectors opening and closing. If you look at the schematic that the FSM gives you, then you will see that a constant is sent to the injectors (12v) and then the transistors ground the circuit, which therefore opens the injector. (grounding the circuit is what flashes the noid light if using one)

I was thinking maybe i have a bad transistor in the ecu but if it worked on a 97 eclipse then why wouldnt it work on mine??

I towed my car home from my shop i work at yesterday since i am now in WV not VA anymore (saftey reasons) and well hopefully i will get a weekend to just sit there and figure something out.

BISHILVR: thanks a lot for all the input on the thread, you made me double check a lot of things so a thumbs up to you man, thanks again
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
ok ok enough is enough. Im gonna put the MFI relay in it when it comes in... ill order it tomorrow. i hope it works if not that's $36 down the tubes.... ill just buy all new parts... f&*@ it
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
well the MFI relay didnt fix it. I pulled back the harness to see if there are any type of fraid or cut wires, but havent found anything. My battery is now shot from the charger being on it a million times and me trying to start it.

So:
ecu = ok
mfi relay = ok
power transistor = ok
resistor box = ok
coils = ok

im about to make a totally seperate harness for the injector. I dont know what else to do :(

oh yeah my TT doesnt work anymore for some reason too.

i finally did get the car to have spark in 4 cyl. and what seems to be injector pulse in 2 cyl.
my noid light broke so i cant 100% say so
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
just out of sheer curiosity... is it possible to have a bad ignition for all this? I mean i do have spark to all 4 cyl.... so that why i ruled that out... but if i hold the key to the start position the car seems to at least firing somewhat??? :confused:
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
ok turbo timer came unplugged probably by my foot hitting it... so that problem is now resolved.

I tried hot wiring the car to eliminate the ignition switch.... but still didnt stay running.... lame

wonder if AEM standalone would fix it
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Ok nothing is happening here:

The car wants to run like i said previously, i hold the car in the start positition with the starter turning the car over.
When i unplug the MSD DIS-2 and put the plug equipped to use the stock ignition the car doesnt even wanna run. Maybe the 9.0:1 c/r is blowing the spark out? I dont know what is up with that.
My talon doesnt have the 2nd o2 sensor plugged in but i didnt think that would matter except at warm up idle.... could i be wrong?
I have a 1997 ecu and the coil setup is for a 1997 and i have the injectors switched to where 1 and 2 are swapped and 3 and 4 are swapped.
Could a bad map sensor screw me up at all? Ive swapped CAS, Resistor box, ECU, MFI relay.
The voltage from the TPS is .4ish. I dont understand why the car wont run. Ive looked for broken wires in the harness but nothing, when trying to start the car in the start positition i move the wires at the ecu hoping for something, but still the same thing.
My MSD-DIS 2 when i first turn the car on to try and start it the red light doesnt come on, but if i turn it back off (where the TT comes on) and then try and start it again the red light comes on. Then when i stop it starts blinking.
My car has spark on all 4 cyl. and 2 injectors are still pulsing.

anymore ideas would help. Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
ok finally i figured out the problem(s)

i had a hacked mas from when my car was stock and well, it didnt like that. The knock sensor wasnt hooked up either. :p Not sure if the knock sensor would keep it from starting or not... but it just added that in there just in case.

The only problem i have now is just random no starts. I think this might be a problem with the fuel and the connector on the CAS.

I idle'd around my street just seeing if it would, and well my car is in need of some serious tuning. I have a oil leak from the return line of the turbo too :( So until then, thanks for the input on everything, i hope i can get the oil leak fixed, buy a new battery and get my exhaust on and then go beat up on some v8's.... and v10's!
 
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