[dsml2rpower]

I never knew those were there either, yet have never used them and lukily have never had an oil leak there.

 

[Raxx]

Well I have to replace my oil return line. It'll run me about 50 bucks for parts and who knows for labor. Unless someone knows a place that could tell me how to change it myself. A step by step instructions would help alot. But the parts below are listed, I wanted to know if all the parts below is what I need to replace my oil return line. I need to know what parts I need and what parts that I don't need. Thanks


MD150523 Oil return line
MR258477 Oil return line gaskets
MF101229 Oil return line bolts (4) 0.72
MF660031 Oil return line bolt crush washers 0.08

 

[Raxx]

Are there ways to slow down the oil leakage from the oil return line for about a week or two. The oil is coming from the flexi thread look alike thing. I wanted to know how hot does it get? Can I use like RTV Sealant just for now just to slow down the leak or will it just burn right off, or can I wrap a lil towel around it and tape around it, are there any ways to slow down the leakage??? Thanks

 

[JNZTuning]

Are there ways to slow down the oil leakage from the oil return line for about a week or two. The oil is coming from the flexi thread look alike thing. I wanted to know how hot does it get? Can I use like RTV Sealant just for now just to slow down the leak or will it just burn right off, or can I wrap a lil towel around it and tape around it, are there any ways to slow down the leakage??? Thanks

You'd have to clean the surface well for either one of these to work, but you can use some sort of epoxy (JB Quick-Weld, etc.) or a liberal amount of copper RTV. Neither one will neccesarily be "fool-proof in fixing the leak" but may either stop it or slow it down a bit until it can be fixed.

I can't stress the fact that the area has to be *CLEAN* before you put the epoxy/RTV on though. If there's oil on it, it won't stick at all. Carb cleaner works well for this (make sure that the engine is cool though)

 

[high-psi-tsi]

like i said, i cut that section out of mine, and put a piece of heavy duty hose wher it was and hose clamped it on. permanent fix.. except for it leaked where it bolted to the turbo

 

[Raxx]

How about this idea...

First clean the hell out of it with carborator cleaner then dry it off with a towel.

Then duck tape the shit out of it around the crack.

Yall think thats a safe idea?

 

[Laserjpb]

Umm well....right off the bat, I'd say that heat might be a bit of an issue down there, and the duct tape might get kinda melty and mushy....but I dunno, maybe it'd work...:dunno:

 

[Raxx]

Is it easy to replace or remove the oil return lines? Can anyone give me some instructions on how to do so? How can I do this the right way?

 

[stevep]

It's not hard but you need a torque wrench, some long extensions and I think a 10mm socket. Two bolts with lock washers attach the pipe to the bottom of the turbo with a gasket between them and two bolts with crush washers attach the pipe to the side of the oil pan again with a gasket (same type as on the turbo end) between the pipe and pan. With all the parts, it shouldn't take more than 10 mins to replace.

But first I'd suggest you find a place to crawl under your car, clean the return and pan with carb cleaner and figure out exactly where it's leaking from. Once you know for sure you can decide if you need a new return pipe, just gaskets, or simple tightening. It will be pretty obvious what you have to do once your laying on the floor looking at the oil return how it goes together.

Steve

 

[1994eclipse]

Is it easy to replace or remove the oil return lines? Can anyone give me some instructions on how to do so? How can I do this the right way?

it is not hard at all really....
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/turbo-swap.html

as you can see from the second and last pic, it is held on to the turbo by 2 bolts (10mm i think), and held on to the oil pan by 2 bolts (10mm also i think). basically, crawl under the car, unscrew the 2 holding the line to the cartridge and then unscrew the 2 on the oil pan. replace all gaskets and washers....sometimes RTV helps too. remember, drain your oil before doing this or there will be quite a mess good luck

 

[Rodman]

Glad I read this thread, my oil return line has always leaked at the oil pan even after 2 trys with new gaskets. Never knew there were 6mm gaskets for the oil return line to oil pan bolts. So there is actually 3 gaskets for the return line to oil pan, and 1 for the turbo side? So where exactly is the placement for these 6mm gaskets? Do you put them on before the larger gasket, just after or on the outside of the return line on the ends of the bolts like washers?
BTW I have heard you should NOT use RTV on the oil pan side of the oil return line, mine leaked with or with out it anyway

 

[JNZTuning]

Just put them on as if they were regular washers for the bolts.....

 

[loreak]

when i pulled off my stock return line, there was no crush washers, just a gasket, and when i put it back on, i never even saw a drip of oil from it

 

[JNZTuning]

Do you even know what the washers look like or where they are located?

If it came from the factory, I can guarantee you that it had them.

this is how mis-information gets spread around.

 

[Raxx]

like i said, i cut that section out of mine, and put a piece of heavy duty hose wher it was and hose clamped it on. permanent fix.. except for it leaked where it bolted to the turbo

Well I tried to seal it up with the epoxy sealant crap but that shit didn't work. But high-psi-tsi, can you give me more details on how to do what u did?

 

[DSMturbo2]

sorry to bring up an old thread but i was wondering if in plave of "MF660031 Oil return line bolt crush washers 0.08" you could use like a thin sheet of single layer card board or construction paper with some high temp rtv. i dont have any crush washers there and need to do something and i only have a little time to get this fixed for now so im just looking for a temporary fix. thanks Erik

 

[terrible]

"attack of the living dead threads"

When changing out the gaskets and oil return line, will oil come out of the pan once the drain is removed? I can't really tell just buy looking at it and I don't want to lose 20$ in brand new synthetic oil.

 

[Taboo]

The oil level in the oil pan must be bellow the oil return line inlet, so, no, no oil should come out of the oil pan when the oil return line is removed (unless the oil pan is overfilled).

As for DSMturbo2's question, don't use some regular cardboard but a thicker gasket material you can buy in any parts store. Cut the gasket and coat both sides with some high-temp RTV. I don't use the crush washers on the oil return line either. As a matter of fact, I make many other gaskets myself since some of the OEM stuff is too thin (such as the TB gaskets) and doesn't seal too well.

 

[mhavel]

The other thing to look at is if the mating surfaces are still flat. Upon re-installing my return line, I found it leaked because the flange on the turbo side was so concave that the stock gasket would not seal properly.