Sorry, Faithless! I went off on a tangent...
Here's what I can tell you about your new speakers...
86db per watt-- this is VERY inefficient for a 15" driver.
what's this mean to you? It means you will need much more wattage to drive this to the same sound levels as a more efficient driver. You save $50 on speakers, and you now have to spend $200 more on amplification to make up for their poor efficiency!
Now this is GENERALLY SPEAKING! (I KNOW it is not ALWAYS fact, but it is true for most applications)
Box Designs--
SEALED BOX= most accurate sound overall, smallest physical size, Requires MORE AMP POWER.
PORTED BOX= more efficient over a specific range of frequency, requires a bit LESS power for the same spl as sealed, LARGER box size
BANDPASS (3rd order) Most efficient, but only in a narrow range. Laregest box. Pain in the ass to design and build.
To put your speakers in a sealed box, it would rob them of even more efficiency. You can't afford this.
To put them in a ported box, This would be my choice, seeing as the fs is 38, a good ported box could extend the deeper bass a bit more. Be prepared to lose every square inch of your hatch.
To put them in a bandpass box, this would require a pickup truck, and would take up half the bed! But, you could use a less expensive amp, and get good results.
Saving a little on speakers should not be a factor in designing your system. They are the most important link in the chain, and if you are going to spend a little extra on ANYTHING-- Spend it on your speakers.
And by the way, Bigger subs does not equal better!
properly set up 10's can sound every bit as good as 15's
If you could get rid of those 15's and get some good 12's or 10's, you could still kick ass while saving some space.
My 10's hit so low and solid, they make you have to PEE!
(2 boston acoustic rally series 10's in a sealed single chamber 2.6cu. ft box, 20 % fill, poewred by 200w rms/side)