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Add a larger fuse for the radio, make sure your grounds are good. Battery post, make sure they are clean and tight and make sure you are getting enough voltage from your alternator. Oh if you have a small battery this will cause the problem too. Not enough researve capacity. Had this problem before and did all that and the problem was solved
No need to add a larger fuse since he isn't blowing the one that is in there. I would check the voltage on the switched and constant power wires behind the radio with a voltmeter as the problem happens. Should have 12v+ with the car off and 13.8v+ with it running. If you don't, have your battery and alternator checked. If that checks out ok, I would find a friend and temporarily install it in their car to see if it does the same. Normally if it's a speaker or speaker wire shorting out somewhere, the sound would cut off, not the radio.
 
It doesn't take much to over-amp a deck.

You'll thermal your deck if the resistance on your speakers are too high, if the feed is too hot, or if the feed is too cold, and it has to work in-efficiently. The best thing I can tell you to do is this:

A.) Mark your wires. (Hopefully they're already marked in the harness for your deck.)

B.) Disconnect your harness, and check the resistance across each set of speakers.

c.) Check the Amperage coming in your ignition power wire. It should be a little lower than the fuse numbers.

D.) Check the resistance of the ground wire/solidity of the grounding points.

If everything seems to be in line on the hard side, then you have another round of testing.

There is an audio test CD out there that rotates frequencies and gain points, they're usually used to test the quality of high-end sound systems. Use the CD and a stopwatch, and a piece of paper to track the time played, volume setting, and general area of frequencies that cause the problem.

*Warning: You were just taught how to build a watch, since you asked what the time was.
 
This sounds like a bad radio, or it could be an insufficient ground connection. I have had this problem before with both of the situations I stated above.
 
I had this same thing happen a few times. Brand new deck. All good wiring.
I also have 2 12" subs powered by a 2000 watt amp. Aftermarket interior speakers but not amped yet. I noticed when cranked it would happen during a real hard bass punch so I assume in my case when that real hard punch hit there was no longer enough power to run the deck. My lights would also dim like crazy. So it would shut off and of course come right back on because there was enough power.
I think my issue is the low amperage alternator on the 1.8. Which i hope to replace once I can figure out what is best to use that will bolt on that motor. Id like to use my 400x4 amp for my speakers and if I go as far as I want Ill be running 1 ~5000 watt to 3 10's or 2 ~3000 watts to 2 12's. And a second battery of course.
So question is anyone know what would be a good 100+ (or whatever im going to need) amp alternator that would fit on the 1.8.

Another question.
How do i get my rear view mirror to stop vibrating so much it turns itself to the floor without gluing it in one place?
 
SEarch for the Saturn alternator swap... NOT sure 1.8's can do the swap though

ALso, no you cannot stop the mirror from moving. We all have to deal with it
 
Old thread.......

With that said, I believe with newer headunits out there and amps. They are getting smarter. I was getting my amp to shut off after a certain volume, I don't know why. I believe the reason is because they have a safety kill switch from the driver killing the alternator/battery. Ever since I put in a blue top Optima I haven't had this issue again.
 
Take your subs out.
BOOOOO!!!
Dont like that answer.

I was thinking maybe a new mirror from an auto parts store that uses the same mount.
But my whole windshield vibrates to the point you can hear it and the passenger window is making noise too.

Im thinking about a thin coat of rubber cement or silicone.


As for the alternator i read about that saturn swap.
After some searching i found some places that do make a ho alt for the 1.8. I dont know the exact amperage. It said call for more details.

n0rthendtr00per ive had my amp cut out not only in this car but in my 96 sho with a 125 amp alt. Its most likely thermal protection. At least thats whats its always been with my amps.

If the head unit cuts out i strongly believe its lack of power. Either from bad ground or something else like high power amps sucking power from a low amperage alternator.

Oh also did you just install this new battery in these colder months?
In the summer id hit the thermal safety all the time but now while its colder tho i use heat in the car the heatsinks on the amp are cold most of the day and the trunk doesnt heat up so much.
Havent hit a thermal cutoff since.
 
Did you ever think it's too much power for the stereo to handle? maybe it sucks it out of power and shuts it off... lol.
 
I realize this is a very old thread but I figured I would post for future readers. It's very important to get the resistance load correct when connecting speakers to any amplifier. Connecting two speakers in parallel will cut the ohms load in half. For instance: if you have 2 - 4 ohm speakers connected in a parallel configuration it will reduce the resistance that the amp "sees" to two ohms. When this happens the speakers draw to much power and the internal protection circuits in some modern amps will cause it to shut down in order to protect itself.
 
I know this is a old thread as well but I believe I know the answer to the problem. I had the same problem with my GST with the Infiniti system, which was brutally torn out, I have had 2 different Alpine HU in it and both did the same thing, then I added a Alpine KTP-445 power pack to the HU and it has not shut off at high volumes since, so after some investigating I have come up with the theory. Aftermarket decks wether they be Alpine Pioneer etc. use a large constant wire to keep presets and this is where the deck draws almost all its power from, the remote or acc wire is simply to turn the deck on, the factory Infiniti system used the remote wire to supply all the power for the deck and only a small constant wire to retain presets. this is where the problem stems from, simply run a constant wire preferably from the battery with a fuse and this shoould solve the problem.
 
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