Snap-On Tools makes a valve spring compressor for the 4g63. It bolts to the screw holes for the valve cover. Except for hand made tools it is the only one I have seen. It is semi-expensive.

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=79147&highlight=valve+compressor

 

When you apply pressure to the valve spring retainer using a valve spring compressor the valve will go down (open) instead of releasing the retainer locks. So, you need to hold the valve closed with enough force to allow the retainer locks to be removed (some force but not a lot). Once the retainer locks are removed the retainer and valve spring can be removed. Also, once the retainer locks are removed the valve can fall into the cylinder - another reason for having something (air or rope) that holds the valve up.

When using air (I've used both methods) I wrap a rubber band around the protruding valve stem. That way, should I loose air pressure, say the hose blows for flys off, I don't lose the valve into the cylinder. The best way to remove the retainer locks is a strong magnet

 

TSS crew in action:

You get the idea...

 

thanks, that's really good info..

so I'll have to remove my timing belt?? including mount, other belts, power steering, and replace it when I'm done??

 

About a year ago, maybe 2, I needed to replace my lash adjusters and couldn't bring myself to do all the prying described in the VFAQ. I pulled the cams and had the engine torn down to what you see in the pics. I have two rules when working on these cars.

1. Anytime the tranny is pulled replace the clutch.

2. Anytime the timing belts are pulled replace the belts.

I think it just makes good sense.

BTW, if pulling the belts, line up all the timing marks, then paint marks from each sprocket onto the belt. If using new belts, transfer the marks.

There's people out there who can do this job without pulling the timing belt. These are advanced mechanics - more advanced than me.

 

so I'll have to remove my timing belt?? including mount, other belts, power steering, and replace it when I'm done??

There's one problem no one seems to mention when recommends swapping the valve stem seals without dropping the t-belt while unbolting only the cams from the sprockets: The cam sprocket bolts are torqued to 72 in-lbs and the dowel pins of the cams may get easily bent in the removal process (since one needs a breaker bar to crack the bolts free) - which may lead to altered cam timing or cause wobbling of the sprockets after re-installation. Of course, if you're just replacing the stock cams with some HKS, Crower or WebCams units, using the method without dropping the t-belt is OK - if you swap the cams one by one while keeping a constant tension on the t-belt so it doesn't slip off the crank sprocket and don't really care if you bend the dowel pins of the stock cams.
If there's quite a realistic chance some parts may get damaged while taking some shortcut that might save me a couple of hours while costing me much more time and money when gone bad, I always choose to do things the "right" way - as opposed the "fast" way (that might not end up being the fast way in the long run anyway)...

 

just as a side note, the stock valve springs only require ~60-70 lbs to compress them, so if you are filling the cylinder with air, make it at least 80 psi. be sure to block the crankshaft so the motor wont tun over.

another thing, a quick way to remove the keepers is to get a short (2.5") piece of pipe that will fit on the retainer and just smack it with a hammer. the sockets with the magnet built in work very well for this. don't forget, you will need a way to compress the springs to reinstall the keepers after you replace the valve seals.

 

Interesting thread. Based on my oil leak post I might have to take a crack at pulling the head and replacing the gasket myself if that's the case. Time to bookmark this thread

Oh, I say just buy the tool that's already made- you could make your own makeshift one (like the one on plymouthlaser.com) but if I were you I'd go for the already made one.

 

thanks for all the info!

well, I've got the valve compressor, and I'm diving in!.. I'll let everyone know how it goes,.. looks like my saturday is pretty much full!!

 

thanks for all the info!

well, I've got the valve compressor, and I'm diving in!.. I'll let everyone know how it goes,.. looks like my saturday is pretty much full!!

 

Re: thanks for all the info!

well, I've got the valve compressor, and I'm diving in!.. I'll let everyone know how it goes,.. looks like my saturday is pretty much full!!

And Sunday too hehe. Yeah let us know how it goes- I am interested in eventually being able to do this myself.

 

I replaced the valve stem seals in my 1990 a few months back. Fairly easy, We went slow to make sure we did it all right. Was the most major service I've yet performed on my car myself. I used the tool as described on plymouthlaser.com, and it worked like a charm. While performing the work, I considered the fact that the 4G63 is an interference motor, which is the reason you bend valves if the timing belt goes. While replacing the valve stem seals, I just turned the motor to TDC for the cylinder I was working on, and the position of the piston was such that the valve would rest on it without falling into the cylinder with the keepers removed. Just be sure the not to let the motor rotate with the valves resting on the pistons. No need for rope, compressed air, etc.

 

Just be sure the not to let the motor rotate with the valves resting on the pistons. No need for rope, compressed air, etc.

In some cases, it may be necessary to tap the top of the compressor if the keepers are stuck to the retainers to get them loose. Definitely not a good idea while the valves rest on top of the pistons without any cushioning.

 

I used a magnet to pull out the keepers. I had no problems. Perhaps I was just lucky.

 

What I meant is that sometime the keepers are wedged in the retainers so tight that the pressure applied by the spring compressor that "should" break them loose is not simply enough (while being enough to actually compress the spring) and one might start bending the valve if rested agains the piston. Gently tapping the top of the compressor - while the pressure (needed to compress the spring) is applied will break the retainer free...