[aquatsi]

It is not what you think... I am going to buy one and I want to know what else to buy to help me tune my car.
I don't have any of these a/f gauge egt and pocketlogger.
Which of these should I buy with the s-afc? I heard that the pocketlogger will do the job of both a/f gauge and egt sensor. is that true or do I have to buy all of them?

 

[shabby]

You need an egt gauge no matter what, its way more accurate than a flimsy a/f gauge.
While you can tune the car with only an egt gauge(stay below 900c) you still need a pocketlogger to figure out if your getting any knock and when to add or take away any fuel.

 

[97TSiAWD]

As shabby said, the EGT gauge and pocketlogger will be the best duo to help you tune with the SAFC. You can use the blue wire mod on the AFC to monitor O2 voltages but they only give a rough estimate about the state of tune.

How hot the EGTs get and your timing (knock sums if you have a 1G) will be the best data to help you tune the car. I would get those two items with the SAFC...you don't need an AF gauge since you can just do the blue wire mod.

Jon

 

[Dsmman]

Agreed.

EGT gauge is the most important! Those A/F gauges are useless IMO. A Datalogger is also an important tuning tool (I need to get one myself). But, you can get away with just an EGT for some rough tuning.

 

[dsm1995gst]

Everyone says EGT's are more important and dependable than O2 readings, and I agree, but the only thing I can find useful to tune using the EGT is the top of 3rd gear (I know not to let it get to 900C by the top of 3rd gear).

How in the hell can you tune Lo-Throttle or Mid-Range RPM WOT with EGT's??? Someone please help me lol.

 

[devlish]

Installing an EGT

while this subject is up... i just got my egt guage and am now wondering where the best place to install the sensor? i have heard many differant places ranging from the #4 or #1 manifold runnern to the 02 housing. now that is a big differance... where would any of you suggest tapping in??
--Thanks--

 

[97TSiAWD]

I have mine tapped in the first cylinder. The way to go is either 1st or 2nd cylinders since they run leanest. I've heard some mixed things about it...but, somehow it seems that the 2nd cylinder runs leanest so that should be the one to tap. I don't think you can go wrong with tapping it in the 1st cylinder either.

Jon

 

[aquatsi]

Thanks. Anybody knows any good cheap EGT gauges for a decent price?

 

[Boostspike]

i never really thought about a pocketlogger/datalogger.... who sells one... and how much in general... direct me to the promise land boys/gals.... whats the web address???

 

[97TSiAWD]

Thanks. Anybody knows any good cheap EGT gauges for a decent price?

If you want a peak-hold EGT gauge, get the Greddy EGT gauge and probe...RRE sells them: (http://www.roadraceengineering.com).

If you want to go cheaper, the autometer will work. I have their EGT gauge and probe that I bought from "New Edge Racing" but they're still closed for business right now. The Autometer doesn't have the peak-hold option though (shows you the max temperature the EGTs reached with the push of a button)

Do some searching (not only on this site) and you can find good deals. Maybe even find some used EGT gauges off of the DSMTrader.

Jon

 

[97TSiAWD]

i never really thought about a pocketlogger/datalogger.... who sells one... and how much in general... direct me to the promise land boys/gals.... whats the web address???

http://www.pocketlogger.com

One of the best tuning tools you can get.

Jon

 

[Cazzo]

Get the best EGT you can and get it sooner than later. IMO GReddy peak/hold is pretty good. Thats what I use BTW and I'm glad I didnt go for the apex one with its cheap little probe. Like 97tsiAwd said, check our RRE, they are pretty cheap once you bypass their service issues plus, they are having a sale on them. Peak/Hold is definately worth it, and you WILL USE IT ALOT. Plus you can set the warning light so you can actually drive without watching the gauge at all until you see the red light come on then you know its time to back off. Then hit the button and waallaa.... you can cry that you just hit 1000C and wonder if shit melted hehe (done it too many times).

Before I had a turbo upgrade, I coulnt believe I was passing 900C by the top of 3rd gear with a t-25. EGT gauge is pretty important. PERIOD.

For good dataloggers check out RRE site, and also http://www.obd-2.com for the complete kit with cable etc etc for about $130. I use the cable from alex pepar and the software from RRE. Also the pocketlogger is very flexable and easy to use, well worth it. TMO has a datalogger but I have never used it.

Happy Tuning.

 

[beemrmem3]

Where can you find a laptop data logger. And what uses have you put the datalogger/pocketlogger to. Besides tunning with the S-AFC, the only reason you need it to tune the S-AFC is for the 02v and the knock right and maybe timing, but thats affected by knock, whats a way to get rid of knock? Sorry i havent dont much tuning, i have some ideas. Just wondering, i was thinking of getting a datalogger cause i have acces to a laptop.

 

[FLEclipse97]

Cheap EGT.... Westech!!! Aircraft quality and not $$$$.
(sacrifice looks for saving money). I have one and it works well. Tuning is a b*#(@. I've got EGT, AFC, A/F.. and still don't feel like i'm right. I want pocketlogger now.

 

[aquatsi]

I was looking into that Westech stuff but I could not find a probe for it. So I think I will go with Greddy if it is not to expensive.

 

[97TSiAWD]

Besides tunning with the S-AFC, the only reason you need it to tune the S-AFC is for the 02v and the knock right and maybe timing, but thats affected by knock, whats a way to get rid of knock?

Knock is basically caused by too much boost and not enough fuel. On pump gas, there are limits on boost even if your air/fuel ratio is good (showing you're running rich). So, to get rid of knock you have to lower the boost or increase the amount of fuel. On the street, the limit on boost will be pretty low on pump gas so you can try adding fuel. If that doesn't work, time to lower boost.

I have been trying 17psi on the street and it seems to be fine since my timing advance is good and my EGTs are barely crossing 1500deg F. Those are the two main pieces of info. I use for tuning: timing advance and EGTs. As long as both are good, you're set.

Jon

 

[dsm1995gst]

Everyone says EGT's are more important and dependable than O2 readings, and I agree, but the only thing I can find useful to tune using the EGT is the top of 3rd gear (I know not to let it get to 900C by the top of 3rd gear).

How in the hell can you tune Lo-Throttle or Mid-Range RPM WOT with EGT's??? Someone please help me lol.

Does anyone have an answer for this?

 

[Cazzo]

Basicaly you don't need to worry about LO settings as long as you are in the ballpark figure of what the ECU of the car would see with stock injectors. What I mean is, if you use 550 cc injectors (18% more than stock) then you would set your LO settings to around -18% to take away that extra fuel those injectors are dishing out (this varies depending on your fuel pump also). The reason this is possible (and can be loosly interpreted this way) is because under 40% throttle position, the ECU is over-riding the s-afc and making its own adjustments anyway. Let me say that again: Under %40 throttle position, the ECU is making its own adjustments as it would normally for fuel economy, gas mileage, responsiveness, etc etc. If you are not in the ballpark of what the computer itself can add or take away fuel, then you will have problems because the ECU can only do so much richer or leaner to compensate for less than adequate LO settings. THis is easy to see on a datalogger as I have seen. My short term fuel trims jump up and down + or - 5% or so to compensate for normal driving, but they ALWAYS find their way back to 0% on the short term fuel trims.

Don't quote me on this and in no way goto your settings and adjust things based on what I have said. Every car is different and different mods will definately make for different Lo settings. My settings are actually not as I have stated above but my HI settings do follow that scenario (my 660cc injectors are 32% larger than stock and my HI settings are around -32% but my Lo settings are richer around -25%) What works for me won't work for you necessarily, it is just a basic way to get things working before you find your own sweet spot. I tune with a datalogger for Timing and use the EGT to confirm safe temps.

Im sure lots of people have different opinions and I would like to hear some because sometimes I wonder why my stuff is alot different than most. Probably because of the Webcams. Anyone want to add? (sorry for the long reply and I hope it offers some useful info)

 

[whiteGSX]

Everyone says EGT's are more important and dependable than O2 readings, and I agree, but the only thing I can find useful to tune using the EGT is the top of 3rd gear (I know not to let it get to 900C by the top of 3rd gear).

How in the hell can you tune Lo-Throttle or Mid-Range RPM WOT with EGT's??? Someone please help me lol.

I use the pocketlogger for that. Just do some WOT runs in 3rd starting at 2500 RPM and look at your log. Getting knock (shitty timing) at 3K? Add more fuel at the 3K mark on your S-AFC. You want no/little knock with a nice rising timing curve. EGT's aren't really meant for fine-tuning, I just use it so I know when to back off if things get too hot. I don't use o2's at all since the numbers are pretty much useless.

 

[dsm1995gst]

So basically the answer is that you can't use EGT's to tune Lo-Throttle or Mid-Range WOT? I am getting a datalogger in a week or two so thats fine.

What percentage larger than stock are 625cc injectors? I just installed a 20G and 625's and I have it roughly tuned (haven't had a chance to mess around with it much, it is still at like .94 or .95v) and my Hi-Throttle settings are around -30%.