My car slips till 3000 rpms in first after that it drives fine.

 

what kind of problems would I have if I had a bad slave cylinder?

my car grinds only when I shift.

when I go in reverse and i dont come to a complete stop and i push the clutch all the way in and shift into first it grinds like I didn't push the clutch in at all.

Its like my clutch isn't fully disengaging but I'm not sure...its hard to get into 1st and sometimes 2nd and third

It's not your slave cylinder, it sounds like the syncros in your transmission.

 

If it was the slave cylinder it would grind whenever you shifted because it wouldn't either hold pressure or it wouldn't completely engage the throw out bearing. It does sound more like synchros if its only happening on one gear in particular.

 

If your slave isn't leaking, than 99% most likely it's not your problem. See if its leaking, and if it is, replace or rebuild it.

EDIT-Push on the boot also, Fluid that leaks out of the slave likes to hide in there..

 

I'm running into a similar thing. I can push the clutch in sometimes and is exactly like the clutch did not disengage all of the way. I replaced my clutch last year with an ACT2600 and rebuilt both cylinders. The strange thing is that if the clutch is still trying to grab with the pedal pushed in, I can pop the clutch and the shifting problem goes away for a while. I'm starting to think that the clutch pedal linkage may have some slop in it.

 

How much pedal travel do you have until it starts to actually move the slave cylinder? It could be when the master cylinder was rebuilt that it wasn't adjusted and you have too much free play in the pedal so your not pushing enough fluid. At least thats a thought.

 

I just finished adjusting the linkage to the master cylinder all the way to the end of the threaded rod. Still no luck. As soon as you start to push on the pedal, the rod starts moving into the master cylinder. That rules out the extra play in the pedal.

It could be that there is not enough movement in the slave cylinder. It is too cold and snow for me to want to get under the car right now to see.

 

I suggest bleeding your clutch fluid.

 

But why would this show up a year and a half after I rebuilt the hydraulic system? I bled the hell out of it, plus the clutch doesn't feel like it has air in the system. It's solid all the way to the floor. I wonder if the throw-out fork bent.

 

When you rebuilt the clutch master cylinder did you clean out the cylinder really well? If you don't or if the cylinder has any scratches in the walls it will cause problems later. Another is to look at the clutch master cylinder and see if the fluid inside is dark in color or even black. If it is that black build up is actually whats left of the seals inside. If your just not getting enough pressure from the master cylinder to move the slave cylinder then it might be that the master cylinder is slowly going out.

 

Well I'd recommend you all buy OEM master & slave cylinders instead of the beck/arnley crap i bought from checkers! The fricken slave cylinder i bought doesn't work properly! It get's stuck once you press on it then releases after 2 seconds. A bad rebuild if you ask me. I wish i had know about the caps cd before i bought the stuff.

Saber!...!...!
=oP

 

slave cylinder? mybe not

Did mine yesterday with the master cyl. No improvement in 1st/5th engagement. Checked vfaq and found a horrifying vfaq about the NUT that holds the gears on the input shaft coming loose a lot! Imagine what happens when it lets go all together when you are going down the road. Easy fix, doing mine this morning. Bet Ill find its loose cuz the symptoms read just like mine: sudden difficulty getting in 1st/reverse. A misadjusted shifter cable can also do this, but mine happened real sudden. Read up at VFAQ!

 

Well I'd recommend you all buy OEM master & slave cylinders instead of the beck/arnley crap i bought from checkers!
Saber!...!...!
=oP

I used Beck when I rebuilt my cylinders. Is there an OEM rebuild kit? Or do you have to buy whole new cylinders?

 

Holy crap!!

Well, the input shaft nut was very loose. Very light pressure on the ratchet w/36mm socket and it just spun loose. Applied locktite red, torqued to 100 ft/lbs, knocked some new dimples in the nut. It aint coming back out without air tools now. Unfortunatly....I also found metal that includes the remains of what I believe is a 2nd gear tooth. Damn DSM trannies. Anyway, it DID help, and prevented what would have ultimatly been the catostrophic failure of my tranny. Easy fix, only two hours start to finish including a lot of time looking for the gear that owned that tooth. Gonna try shifter cable adjustments and see if it helps any. B&G Syncro shift always helps too.

 

Where exactly is the input shaft nut?

 

This sounds interesting. I remember reading that FAQ a long time ago when I first got into DSM's. I must have forgotten about it.

I have been having alot of trouble getting my car into gear lately. I am definitely going to have to check this out again. Hopefully it will fix my problem.

Josh

 

Re: Holy crap!!

Well, the input shaft nut was very loose. Very light pressure on the ratchet w/36mm socket and it just spun loose. Applied locktite red, torqued to 100 ft/lbs, knocked some new dimples in the nut. It aint coming back out without air tools now.

Did You use a standard depth 36MM socket, and did you have to hold the crankshaft while you torqued the nut?

 

RE: slave cylinder and input shaft nut.

I used a short 36mm w/ 1/2" drive to fit my torque wrench. Put a breaker bar and socket on the crank end and let it spin and bind on the drivers side lower control arm. Plenty of room to get the torque wrench on the nut, at least on a 1G. Sealed case with grey RTV. I also found the remnants of a gear tooth in the cover though. Must be from 2nd gear would be my guess. So my problems are not over.

 

Are you going to rebuild it yourself, or are you going to have someone else do it? I'm a little leary about making sure I have all of the right clearances during assembly.

 

rebuild

thats a little too tech for me. Thats a very complcated tranny IMHO. And yes the clearances are what would concern me the most. Now if somebody that has done this (a lot) before would make a video, I would probably buy it and the parts to do it. I have read parts to do it right run between 600-700 for an overhaul kit. I have done manual trannies before, just nothing like this.

 

Where are you at in NC?

 

Has anybody actually measured the distance the slave cylinder travels? The slave cylinder is moving, but I don't know if it is enough. The last time I ran into this, my clutch disc threw a spring that wedged between the disc and the pressure plate. That was just last year. I now have an ACT clutch, and I would hope that the same thing hasn't happened again.

 

Now I'm scared. Where is this VFAQ about the nut? I can't find it.

 

I'm in Winston-Salem Burg.

The VFAQ is under drivetrain on VFAQ.com if I remember correctly. Its real easy, just remove the 10-11 14mm bolts (1G), remove the two large 36 MM shaft nuts, apply Loctite red, tighten to like 110 ft-lbs. I was shocked at how loose mine were on my 1G. I saw yesterday that Taboo racing offers a clutch slave cylinder rod thats 1/4" longer than stock to add some adjustment. 35 bucks. Anybody with a lathe and some round stock the right diameter could make one. They also offer steel clutch forks for a decent price. Gotta work now, speed parts cost money.

 

What are the dimensions on that slave cylinder rod, I think I'll make my own.