Mine was becouse I was running too rich

 

I have also had this problem but I think it is because I am running too rich. It seems to happen alot when I have my BOV vented. I could have screwed up the plugs so I think I will go check those but I think it is just running rich.

 

I just changed my plugs. It fixed the problem. My plugs were black and corroded. I will try to post a picture later. Anyway, I guess thats what 45000 miles and a few rich runs will do to them.

 

Mine was becouse I was running too rich

lol i was buckin once because i had an almost empty gas tank.

 

Mine only does it when its cold, if i give it more gas it feels like I'm going slower? I guess its time to change the plugs/ wires.

 

Mine only does it when its cold, if i give it more gas it feels like I'm going slower? I guess its time to change the plugs/ wires.

Are your lifters ticking at that time? Mine used to do the same thing back when my lifters ticked pretty bad.

 

mine vibrated cause my drive shaft was bent. :dunno: not sure what happened to bend it, but it hasn't happened while i've had the car.

 

Are your lifters ticking at that time? Mine used to do the same thing back when my lifters ticked pretty bad.

Mine is doing the same thing...used to be only when it was cold then gradually it got worse. My lifters were ticking pretty bad too.

I did an oil change with synthetic and my lifter tick went away...and so did the problem, I just did this like 2 days ago so hopefully it was fixed. why is this??

 

Mine is doing the same thing...used to be only when it was cold then gradually it got worse. My lifters were ticking pretty bad too.

I did an oil change with synthetic and my lifter tick went away...and so did the problem, I just did this like 2 days ago so hopefully it was fixed. why is this??

Because now the lifters are better lubricated, therefore they don't tick. Since the lifters aren't ticking, the knock sensor doesn't sense false knock and pull timing (if that is what you were asking).

 

my cars been doing this lately if i take it over 4500. stupid question, but could stale gas cause this? there was like 1/2 tank of gas when the engine seized, and it was sitting for a year and a half before i bought it. i just put some 93 in it and i keep babying it. could that be the cause of my car bucking and trying to throw me through the windshield?

 

I would think so.

 

I knew it.....my car had been running like shit for a while and I couldn't figure out what it was. I asked my auto shop teacher if it could be the knock sensor picking up the lifter tick, he said nah i don't think that could be the problem. well I still kinda figured it was so when I did my oil change i decided ah what da hell and went synthetic, good thing I did cause it runs great now

One question though........How do I completly get rid of my lifter tick, I mean its gone right now, but what if it comes back??

 

There are revised lifters that you can buy, I think there was a thread on them in Parts Talk.

 

ah ok, well I'll look it up.....thanx

 

I just posted this in a thread that I had started regarding this issue. Here is a tech page from Magnecor regarding a possible fix for this problem. Give it a read, pretty interesting.

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/techbulletins/tech_mrbishi1.htm

 

So did anyone ever change the lifters and have this problem fixed? Because I don't want to spend any unncessary money on anything.

 

Well I figured I should put my problem in here too seeing as how it's pretty much grounded my 2G's fun factor for a while now (and I've dumped close to a grand to repair it with no luck).
I've had the stutter for nearly a year. It started out very mild and only under boost or heavy load, but has progressed to the point that I'm considering taking the car to a mechanic which I never do. Everytime I think it's fixed, it comes back. I've replaced everything in the engine that can obviously and even theoretically cause a hesitation. Sensors, plugs, the entire ignition system, fuel pump, and filter, even new injectors. Had the ECU checked out, MAS tested. Anything I could think of. New wires (which replaced magnacores with maybe 10K on them) seemed to help the most as I got a few weeks of problem free driving before it started again.
Now it's gotten so bad that once the engine is at or near operating temp, any rev over 2800 RPM's will cause the stutter, the check engine light pops on and it won't go away until the car comes to almost a complete stop (sometimes completely stopping is the only way to fix it). Simply backing off the throttle a little used to make it go away. My EGT's will drop dramatically from 1500-1600 to as low as 1100-1000 degrees (she idles around 900 ) , and the car acts as if it's running on 2 cylinders. The RPM's will jitter around a bit, and it slows down with little chance of gaining speed at a usable rate. It's not a slipping clutch though. The chevy celebrity I had as a first car could out accelerate it by leaps and bounds.
From a cold start with the engine below temp, it'll pull hard as hell like it should. Once that temp guage comes up though, the stutter is guaranteed to eventually kick in if the car is revved. In some cases I can't even build more than a few PSI of boost under the stutter, but there's no boost leak whatsoever. Probably caused by the lack of heat and exhaust from a misfiring cylinder I'm guessing. I even checked for leaks when the engine was hot hoping maybe a seal or gasket was leaking when hot but no difference there.
I just read that magnacore article, and I know that I have a small oil leak inside the #4 cylinder even after a spark plug gasket swap and my engine bay has on occasion been wet in the morning when I don't park it in the garage. Anyone else have the problem magnacore described? I'm going to take a look at my wires to see if there's any arcing now, and I'll be super pissed if that's my problem (2 sets already at $75 a set ).
Since I seem to have a very extreme case of stuttering I'll keep my findings (if any) posted here in case anyone else experiences the nightmare I have.

 

I have the same stuttering problem but it only happens at low rpms. I changed the plugs and they were gapped correctly and the car has aftermarket cams in it that were not put inby me so i dont know what they are. Coudl that cause the problem or is it something else. Also smells rich at wot but i cant find a boost leak anywhere before the intake manifold so im lost

 

sounds like misfireing, thats why the temps go down. it has to be something in your ignition. mabye your car cannot generate enough spark for the amount of compression your motor is makeing. could be anything, as the spark will only be as strong as the weakest link.

how are your coils ?
battery at full charge with a healthy alternator.

and i would check anything in the ECU that could be cutting spark for some reason ?

clean all your grounds and get a ground kit.

 

misfiring

I'm thinking it could be the ecu because the cel light comes on but the temperature is always at right in the middle of the gauge. I'm not sure what kind of shape the coils are in becuase they've never been checked. I'm not realy sure where they are on this engine(help)...... I'm almost positive it is misfiring though because you can hear the spark ground out on the number 4 cylinder and it doesnt feel as strong as it should at any rpm... someone also told me that it could be a problem with the injectors?..... if anyoneis in the cincinnnati area and could help out that would be huge

 

i just started working on my first talon ( a buddy's of mine ) so im not to familiar on its computer, but i have alot of experience on other imports and crotchrockets.

it has to be misfireing if you lose temps ( fuel will cool everything down).

and since it only happens when up to temp. then im guessing something in the computer is misfireing on purpose ( to save the engine ? mabye knock sensor, mabye your timeing is at a place when the engine is warm where it can't fire ( weak spark and to much compression) ??

does electrical load make any difference ? ( is the car worse with the lights on ? )


right now the talon im working on had a blown tranny, we swaped it to JDM, now the engine has this hardcore vibration when around 1000 rpm ( in gear or not ) at 2000 rpm its fine at 1000 it feels like a hardcore back massage, i mean its bad, its a massive shake almost. my guess is some insane pinging action ?? i don't know.

but i think the talon fires 2 cyclinders at a time dosnt it ?. because you can switch the 1/2 spark plug wires around, and the 3/4 wires around and the car will run the same.

so mabye are cars are running on just 1 coil, like the 1/2 or 3/4. so it feels like its running on 1 big mofo cylinder.

the coil is where the plug wires goto btw. if you check the ohms with a meter both coils should be the same. i suggest you check. I will next time im working on the car.

 

Surprisingly enough, I wired a transistor into the barmoetric pressure sensor, tweaked the knob a small amount, and so far the stutter hasn't reappeared. It seems to have just been related to my 6 bolt swap.

 

I have been running into some of the problems described above, my car has been kicking back and forth at low rpm's, its like its loseing power, running rich form time to time and, taking in alot more gas then normal. A friend of mine told me to change my fuel filter, wich I did today, it didnt work, I was also told to try and change the o2 sensor, but I figure I should ask some people that know what they are talking about first, if the spark pulgs and wirers are the problem, what would be a good brand to go with? Ive got a 97' talon Non-turbo

 

Nevermind I fixed it, it was the wirers

 

Important note:!!!!!

Cars that are stuttering at lower rpm. AKA - under spool up, but don't stumble once boost hits.

Your problem is most likely the TB shaft seals.

If replacing these....USE THE RIGHT SIZE SCREW DRIVER!! I learned the hard way.

Mine were shot to hell, the rubber o-rings were only dust left.


This is only a likely problem with cars over 100k miles.