To answer the question. you need to know what the water lines do. so i will offer some input. The water lines are for the fast idle air valve. it makes the car idle faster till it get warm, which at that point melts some wax in the t-body which in turn close off the passage. it can be eliminated. but you cant just leave the line unattached, you will either a. make a plate to sandwich between the assembly. or b.(what i did) disasemble and silicone everything inside. either way by doing this it makes your car not idle when cold and you will either have to jack around and accept a higher throttle, or let sit and help the car warm up in the winter. hope this helps

 

don't do it... its so easy to put it back plus it helps your idle in cold weather.

 

I took the lines off of my car like 4 years ago. Didn't modify anything and it idles just fine. Winter or Summer. It's a 50:50. Try it.

Also my 92 TSi, doesn't have those stupid coolant lines and idles just fine. Hit or miss.

 

To answer the question. you need to know what the water lines do. so i will offer some input. The water lines are for the fast idle air valve. it makes the car idle faster till it get warm, which at that point melts some wax in the t-body which in turn close off the passage. it can be eliminated. but you cant just leave the line unattached, you will either a. make a plate to sandwich between the assembly. or b.(what i did) disasemble and silicone everything inside. either way by doing this it makes your car not idle when cold and you will either have to jack around and accept a higher throttle, or let sit and help the car warm up in the winter. hope this helps

thanks for the input. i live in socal, so when we complain about cold (anything sub-60*), the rest of the country calls us crybabies. which is fine. so i'm not too worried about the cold idle since it doesn't get too bad here. but why can't i just go ahead and leave the lines off?

 

because it can play with your idle like say.... its cold when you remove the lines then you have a fast idle all the time, and warm weather is vice versa.

 

isn't that what happens when you use a plate or silicone the insides too?

 

No, the plate makes it act as if the wax pellet was melted so it is "off" high idle so to speak. Some people just loop the lines around and get away with it others, like myself and chic cannot get the idle low enough since it is still letting additional air through the faiv as if it was in cold-idle mode.

I blocked my fiav (left the isc motor there so I still can control the idle speed w/ the ems) with jb weld and it always started and ran fine in temps down to -10*f

 

ook, thanks for the clarification. i'll try the looping first then and see how it works.

 

Ive always wanted to do this, but remove the lower portion of the TB completley. Im too lazy

 

i did mine about a week ago during a rebuild. and my idle is stuck at 3,000 like a rock. so today im going to switch it back over and see how it goes. but good luck on it

 

I had a question about this very thing. I rescently ordered a magnus intake manifold w/ a 75mm tb. I noticed that the throttle body doesn't have any coolant lines or vacuum lines to it. I didn't know what the coolant lines were for until now, thanks guys and girls, and i did know that the vacuum lines had to do with your emissions. My question is, this is my daily driver so with out these coolant lines and vacuum lines hooked up am I now going to have issues with the cold weather start up and dmv inspection now even when i get the dsmlink? If yes, I'm debating on sending my magnus and throttle body back and get a new magnus with a 60mm flange and get a 60mm tb from a first gen.

 

you might have problems with dmv for the emissions section because of the missing vacuum lines.

 

Mine is completely removed, lines are looped and a blockoff plate is installed and my car idles fine with large cams in hot or cold weather at 900rpm. I can't see what the problem is here people.

 

Mine is completely removed, lines are looped and a blockoff plate is installed and my car idles fine with large cams in hot or cold weather at 900rpm. I can't see what the problem is here people.

^im with rippin i did the same thing he has done..no large cams yet but he showed me his block off plate i then made my own out of SS and have had no problems since no loopy idle nothing, cold weather requires about 20 seconds of your foot on the pedal but thats no biggy..

and since your in socal you wont have to worry about cold weather

 

There it is.

Bye the way, anybody who pulls the TB out of the car should go through the trouble of replacing the shaft seals. Get them from this website and follow the vfaq directions. They are the first ones listed at the top of the page. It took me a long time to track those damn things down but they will never wear out like the factory POS!!! Thank me later.

http://www.ebatmus.com/search.epl?Query=3930

 

^exactly..make sure to use that rtv though..i reused the old gasket as well..you dont want any leaks :tree:

 

Just for reference the reason the coolant lines run through the throttle is because when cold the fuel sprayed into the intake air tends to cling to the walls and not atomize quite as well. By increasing the idle the pressure drop in the manifold is greater and therefore the intake air velocity increases, allowing the fuel to more easily enter the motor and not cling to the walls. As the engine heats up the idle is dropped as the fuel no longer tends to cling.