The reason the coolant flows through the T-body is to keep it warm in the winter so it doesnt freeze up, removing it is no big deal.

 

Thanks, I'm in the south so that's not a problem. Do I need to plug up the entry and exit points on the TB?

 

It'd be a good idea to cap them. Lucky you. From a warm state. I need it hooked up

 

It'd be a good idea to cap them. Lucky you. From a warm state. I need it hooked up

wouldn't this be reversible?

if so you could do it for the summer months then when fall hits you could just rehook it up?

 

Yeah but the gains, as close to none as you can get, keep me from doing it. That and I'm getting sick of working on my DSM's. I've had boost for nearly a year now and during that year I've driven only 460 miles boostin.

 

yeah ive heard the gains are small, but i dont know. i havent done this mod but i have seen many dyno numbers of it being done on z28 camaros and they gained 5-7hp each. i guess its worth a try, but maybe its more effective on a v8 or something. it seems relatively easy to do and couldnt hurt down here south of houston, so im gonna try it.

-Aaron

 

oh yeah for those who doubt, heres a link to the mod being done on a trans-am:

http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm

by the way, the mod is eaxctly the same on a dsm as it is on an ls1 or lt1 engine.

-Aaron

 

Ive done it to my car. Its super easy. Can't say i noticed a differance, but i do every small thing i can to my car and together i know its all working well.

 

Some one want to post how to do it. I live in canada so hopefuly its easy to reverse.

 

Coolant Block off will it pass

Doing this modification,
1: Will it pass emissions?
2: do you have to make a block off plate like a big diamond shape?
3: Does anyone sell the block off plate or as a kit?
I currently have it on my Galant, but since I am removing the Haltech and messing around with the map sensor, injector balast, and detonation sensor and vacuum hoses, egr....I would like to know if it will pass emissions with it blocked off at the intake manifold. Thanks alot guys....you guys rule!!

[Edited by DRIFT4 on 06-27-2001 at 08:02 PM]

 

what? no, no plate involved. you just take a 90 degree barb bend and take the two coolant hoses off the throttle body and attach them to them. thats it, you dont cover up the holes in the tb or anything. and the cooland now just runs through the tube and onward, not through the tb, heating it up. takes like 5 minutes total.

-Aaron

 

First of all, the coolant lines have nothing to do with keeping the throttle plate warm in the winter. The coolant lines are for the FIAV (fast idle air valve), this is a bypass valve similar to what the ISC uses. What happens is when the car is cold, you start it and the FIAV is wide open, allowing more air to bypass the throttle plate and give the ISC more air to play with: this is why your idle will be 250 rpms or so higher than normal when the car is cold. Then once the car is warmed up (via the coolant going through the FIAV housing) a wax pellet melts thereby blocking the FIAV and the car assumes normal operation. This is done to get more air to the ISC on a cold day (i.e. ever try starting a snow blower/lawn mower/leaf blower on a freezing day up north? this is the situation that the FIAV prevents)

Note that if you do the bypass mod, then tighten the FIAV all the way (so that no air can get by) or weld it shut, otherwise you may experience idle problems. Many people have learned this the hard way. Just tighten the FIAV down all the way, get some 90 degree plumbing pipe, connect the two hoses together, readjust your idle BISS after the car has warmed up and your done. If you live in a warm climate (such as in FL where I am) you shouldn't have any troubles most of the time, but if it's cold out you may have to give the car some gas for a few minutes until you get a stable idle.

GSTSpyder

 

That dyno graph is convincing enough proof for me. I'm doing the bypass.

If it doesn't work good I'll just put it back to stock.. and when it's time to smog, same deal.

 

Are you willing to have all sorts of idle problems for a couple horsepower? I'd sooner turn up the boost another psi, thanks.

 

Are you willing to have all sorts of idle problems for a couple horsepower? I'd sooner turn up the boost another psi, thanks.

Yeah but regardless you can only turn up the boost so much before it does nothing. why not turn it up AND do the tb bypass? if you start to have problems, just reconnect the hoses to the tb, easy as that. i could understand if this was something non-reversible but really, it is easy to reverse, only costs like $1.39 (for the bend) and could and probably will net you 6 or so more horsepower. any damage to idle can be adjusted, so i see no reason not to do it.

-Aaron

 

Sorry, I've just heard too many people say "my idle is messed up!" Then after lengthy discussions regarding bad ISCs, dirty TB passages, etc, this mod is finally brought up. "Have you blocked the throttle body coolant lines?" "Yes! It gives me mad power, yo!"

6hp?

My sneezes are worth 6hp! That isn't even worth a tenth in the 1/4mi. And I really doubt that actually makes that much of a difference.

And it certainly isn't worth me sitting through a hunting idle while at a traffic light.

 

6hp? well thats not alot in itself but you have to remember that your car goes fast because of the sum of all the mods. you dont put on a catback (which in most cases dynos around 10hp) and complain because it doesnt give you much power so its not worth it. same with the k&n airbox, 10-14 hp, big deal, not even worth a tenth, right? then why do people do it? its the sum of all the mods. if you just got a filter and tb mod and raced another dsm with just a filter, you just may win because of that extra 6 hp. besides 6 hp for only $1.39 is pretty good.

-Aaron

 

Then once the car is warmed up (via the coolant going through the FIAV housing) a wax pellet melts thereby blocking the FIAV and the car assumes normal operation.
GSTSpyder

What happens when you run out of wax pellets???

I ran this mod on a 11 sec Z-28. You won't see any gains driving around town, but at the track this mod really shines. The reason being, the second you fire up the car you start pumping hot coolant through the TB via these coolant lines, which heats up the throttle body prematurally, bypassing these lines allows you delay the heating of the throttle body, (hot air = less power)allowing you to produce more power at least until the TB heats up. Try this for all of those who doubt the gains of this mod, next time you run at the track ice down your intake for 30-45 min. Start the car pull into the staging lanes, now check the temp of the TB the intake will remain cool while the TB is now hot due to the coolant lines heating the throttle body. This heats the incoming air reducing the amount of power you are able to produce.

Mark

 

Note that if you do the bypass mod, then tighten the FIAV all the way (so that no air can get by) or weld it shut

How do you tighten the FIAV? I can see how you would weld the air passage, but how do you tighten it?

 

Those lines are a bitch to get at. The fuel lines right in the way.

 

open up the lower TB cover and you can access the FIAV

 

GSTSpyder, Wow, thanks for the insight. I thought i just had crappy idle because of my modified MAS.