http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

 

used the vfaq but i used the beam type torque wrench to torque down the tensioner pulley and am wondering how if the pin is suppost to pull out nice and go back in nice and easy?

 

I'm pretty sure there should be tension on the cotter pin that holds the tensioner in place untill installation. I think you're supposed to have to put the tensioner in a vice to put the pin back in. I'd re-check the install, and verify that it's actually putting pressure out. Is this an OEM tensioner? Pull it off the car and make sure the inner rod on the tensioner will "pop" out, then put the pin back in and reinstall the tensioner. It could be a bad tensioner or a bad install. I'm quite sure there should be pressure on the pin when installed correctly.

 

It's called a tensioner for a reason. I suggest go get another new OEM tensioner. You don't need your t-belt snapping. :wall: VFAQ also states to get a NEW ONE.

 

OEM New is the only way I do, and would recommend, a timing belt tensioner.

 

OEM New is the only way I do, and would recommend, a timing belt tensioner.

it is a new oem timing belt tensioner pulley, idler pulley and auto tensioner. i used a beam type torque wrench to tension the tensioner pulley (24 in lbs.) and when i pull the grenade pin out it pulls out freely and goes back in freely. Other people have told me that its supposed to be like that.

 

If that's the case, have you allowed enough time for the tension to set correctly? Has the tensioner moved up since pulling the pin? Minimum 30 minutes for it to release fully on a new one.

 

it is a new oem timing belt tensioner pulley, idler pulley and auto tensioner. i used a beam type torque wrench to tension the tensioner pulley (24 in lbs.) and when i pull the grenade pin out it pulls out freely and goes back in freely. Other people have told me that its supposed to be like that.

Shouldn't there be some kind of warranty if it is a completely new auto tensioner?

So you could pull the pin out freely after you released the wrench? But... why did you put the tensioner in a torque wrench if it was new? A new one should have that pin already, holding back the rod.

 

Shouldn't there be some kind of warranty if it is a completely new auto tensioner?

So you could pull the pin out freely after you released the wrench? But... why did you put the tensioner in a torque wrench if it was new? A new one should have that pin already, holding back the rod.

The auto tensioner is the one with the grenade pin and tensioner pulley is the one with the two holes that is supposed to be turned to spec using a beam type torque wrench to 24 inch lbs. I set the tensioner pulley to spec then pulled the grenade pin out and it pulls out freely and goes back in freely.

 

The auto tensioner is the one with the grenade pin and tensioner pulley is the one with the two holes that is supposed to be turned to spec using a beam type torque wrench to 24 inch lbs. I set the tensioner pulley to spec then pulled the grenade pin out and it pulls out freely and goes back in freely.

Is your special tool still in? Did you rotate the crank 6 rotations, wait for 20 mins and measure the gap on the tensioner? If you have followed the VFAQ you would know that the hole is not suppose to line up or else there wouldn't have been the need for the auto tensioner special tool.

 

Is your special tool still in? Did you rotate the crank 6 rotations, wait for 20 mins and measure the gap on the tensioner? If you have followed the VFAQ you would know that the hole is not suppose to line up or else there wouldn't have been the need for the auto tensioner special tool.

yea that is what i figured

 

yea that is what i figured

If it's lined up, the rod is not extended enough (I bet the gap is larger than spec), this means you need to put more torque on the tensioner pulley.

 

The auto tensioner is the one with the grenade pin and tensioner pulley is the one with the two holes that is supposed to be turned to spec using a beam type torque wrench to 24 inch lbs. I set the tensioner pulley to spec then pulled the grenade pin out and it pulls out freely and goes back in freely.

Ah, sorry, my technical english isn't the best Thought torque wrench was some sort of vise.

 

If it's lined up, the rod is not extended enough (I bet the gap is larger than spec), this means you need to put more torque on the tensioner pulley.

I just got done doing my timing belt and checked the gap and made sure the pin would go back in. It wouldn't freely go back in but I could get it in without bending it. 0.150 drill bit did fit, 0.180 did not. In spec as far as I know.

Anytime your doing this make sure the face that the tensioner rod sits on doesn't have dimples in it. My last one had dimples that were at least 0.032" deep. This could easily throw off a gap vs. tension setting.

Bryan

 

I just got done doing my timing belt and checked the gap and made sure the pin would go back in. It wouldn't freely go back in but I could get it in without bending it. 0.150 drill bit did fit, 0.180 did not. In spec as far as I know.

Not once have I ever ended up with the pin going in and out freely, the hole has always been higher, in any of my timing belt jobs. Think about it, what is the need for the special tool if what you're claiming is true.

 

Not once have I ever ended up with the pin going in and out freely, the hole has always been higher, in any of my timing belt jobs. Think about it, what is the need for the special tool if what you're claiming is true.

I had asked someone the same question when they told me that the tension was dead on. Thats why i posted it on this forum. I do agree that its not to spec just for that fact that if the pin is supposed to go in and out freely than there would be no need for the special tool.

 

The special tool helps you turn the tensioner, I have to use 2 allen keys and a wrench. On top of that it provides a dead on method to set tension. Instead of the 4 or 5 times it took me to get it right.

I might have a tensioner at the shop to look at, but the tensioner rod sticks out pretty far with the pin in. I'll put a caliper on it tonight and see what it measures if i can find it.

bryan